BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

i was thinking that too, but there's the white kind and the thicker yellow kind. also i'm wondering if a certain kind is harder to broken down by the sway bar movement.

i plan on throwing the teflon tape on the bar, then greasing the spot between the tape and the bushings.

as long as the discussion is relevant, why make a new thread?
i bumped one from 2003 for this same reason. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...locations.html

dragonrage

Well, personally, I don't think teflon tape is going to hold up at all. It's not meant to have constant friction applied.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Just stick with some synthetic wheel bearing grease. Whilst it can be a real pain in the **** in extreme climates, it will work well as long as there's enough lubrication and provided that the bushing hasn't creeped too much.

It's sure tempting to use ones of thicker viscosity, but remember the grease is essentially a fluid bearing, because the nature of the majority of the polyurethane bushings are of a really soft and somewhat sticky plastic. This is why grease is needed in areas of significant movement whilst others areas of the suspension uses the bind optimally. Too viscous of a lubricant can actually add unecessary stiction.

Not intending to be repetitious here, but remember that no matter how well one takes care of the poly bushings, they do creep and suffer permanent deformation over time. One may not see it with their eyes, but it's still there.

As Blackhawk T/A and a few others stated earlier, it's best to stick with Moog Chassis Parts brand (or similar) replacement rubber bushings with the front A-arms and rear trailing arms. Even though the rubber will eventually wear, they won't require constant greasing, there will be just enough deflection that's needed, and they're actually just as quiet over a longer period of time.

AFA the design of the rubber, the wear is normal due to the coil-like monomers present in the rubber, which is the intention of the use of rubber in the first place. This is why I warn forum users around here how polyurethane isn't an improvement in areas where a lot of axial misalignment is needed (or what many would refer to as "articulation").

BTW, I mention this not only from a scientific/engineering perspective, but I too had the problems that the OP had as well, so I too learned the hard way.

EDIT: The only exception in the upper A-arms would be to use custom Delrin bushings since they're a much harder polymer and not so sticky (still needs lubrication), however the reason behind using Delrin would be for an offset bushing design, otherwise the change in material will not yield "real-world" improvements.