Installing Eibach Pro Kit springs. Is an alignment that important?
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Installing Eibach Pro Kit springs. Is an alignment that important?
I did the front springs today and it still drives straight as an arrow so I'd hate to have to spend money on an alignment and take the chance of some dopey mechanic grinding up the front end as he drives onto the alignment rack.
Is an alignment with new specs pretty important or not? I'm mostly concerned with tire wear issues.
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1997 Trans Am WS6 6 speed
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Is an alignment with new specs pretty important or not? I'm mostly concerned with tire wear issues.
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1997 Trans Am WS6 6 speed
40,XXX miles, Pacesetter long tube headers, Pacesetter off road y-pipe, Flowmaster Amercian Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Billet Plus shifter, 18" chrome Y2K vette rims, throttle body bypass
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they lower alot 1.2 inches that alot, also did u get a panhard bar for the rear end to center it?
just to be safe especially if u have newer tires i wouldnt chance it. most alignments are only 50 to 70 bucks. my tires are originals lol and they only have 14k miles but after 6 years old they are cracking and stuff, so I maye hold off for an alignment and I will just center the rear on my own with my panhard bar. I just put in the pro-kit also the stance looks great.
it may ride straight untill u hit different roads, also might be stable when getting on the gas alot or brakes alot.
just to be safe especially if u have newer tires i wouldnt chance it. most alignments are only 50 to 70 bucks. my tires are originals lol and they only have 14k miles but after 6 years old they are cracking and stuff, so I maye hold off for an alignment and I will just center the rear on my own with my panhard bar. I just put in the pro-kit also the stance looks great.
it may ride straight untill u hit different roads, also might be stable when getting on the gas alot or brakes alot.
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Originally Posted by MdFormula350
they lower alot 1.2 inches that alot, also did u get a panhard bar for the rear end to center it?
just to be safe especially if u have newer tires i wouldnt chance it. most alignments are only 50 to 70 bucks. my tires are originals lol and they only have 14k miles but after 6 years old they are cracking and stuff, so I maye hold off for an alignment and I will just center the rear on my own with my panhard bar. I just put in the pro-kit also the stance looks great.
it may ride straight untill u hit different roads, also might be stable when getting on the gas alot or brakes alot.
just to be safe especially if u have newer tires i wouldnt chance it. most alignments are only 50 to 70 bucks. my tires are originals lol and they only have 14k miles but after 6 years old they are cracking and stuff, so I maye hold off for an alignment and I will just center the rear on my own with my panhard bar. I just put in the pro-kit also the stance looks great.
it may ride straight untill u hit different roads, also might be stable when getting on the gas alot or brakes alot.
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Originally Posted by NHRAMAN
An adjustable one. You already have one that is stamped steel and non-adjustable.
I don't care so much about improbing the handling anymore but I definately don't want to wear out the tires prematurely.
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OK, I'm getting an adjustable panhard bar but what specs should I use for the alignment?
I looked at the sticky on this page but didn't see anything for lowered cars. I want the tires to last a while and I don't do too much hard cornering or anything like that.
I looked at the sticky on this page but didn't see anything for lowered cars. I want the tires to last a while and I don't do too much hard cornering or anything like that.
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If you dont do an alignment, you will wear out your tires unevenly. Your camber will be very negative. Toe and caster wont be affected as much. As far as absolutely needing a adj. panhard rod, I dont know about that. I dont have one, my rear seems centered. no rubbing issues w/ 295s. I have a pro-kit.
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Originally Posted by michaelg589
If you dont do an alignment, you will wear out your tires unevenly. Your camber will be very negative. Toe and caster wont be affected as much. As far as absolutely needing a adj. panhard rod, I dont know about that. I dont have one, my rear seems centered. no rubbing issues w/ 295s. I have a pro-kit.
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I would suggest as close to factory specs as possible. Just because the steering wheel is straight doesn't mean that things are ok alignment wise. The negative camber on your front can kill a set of tires in a hurry, plus a properly aligned vehicle can save you gas. And definitely get an adjustable panhard bar because your rear will need "centered" for it to compress as designed and maintain it's proper track in relation to the front wheels. If you're worried about the front bumper hitting the lift, most alignment racks have ramps leading onto the lift itself with varied angles of ascent depending on lift model, just ask if you can see the alignment rack and look for scraping marks or see if you think you're car will clear. The worst that could happen is they say no. But keep in mind the best chance of it scraping is when its backed off the lift.
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I wish I had saved the printout they gave me when I got my alignment. It showed the measurements how they were right after they installed the springs/shocks and then showed the measurements after adjustment. I guess it would be as close to factory specs as possible.