Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I've been on the website showing all of the different brands of springs, and their rates... but really it's just a bunch of numbers to me. I understand it in that the higher the rate, the stiffer the spring, but how does that effect my performance at either of the three scenarios that I listed in the title? I'm wanting to build my car for an autocross/canyon carving type setup more-so than the road racing aspect (i.e. typically lower speeds, quick acceleration, tight turns, etc.). So would I need to look for a really stiff spring, such as the LT1 Pro-kit, or something a little more tame like the 1LE or Hotchkis springs? I know that other aspects will play into the handling as well, but I'm really trying to get my spring choice down. Thanks.

[RT] ProjUltraZ

eibach prokit for LT1 is not good. i ran em and didn't like the variable rate. get adj coil overs with 500 to 600 lb linear springs up front and 150 lb springs out back, and konis, and strano's 35/22 swaybars, and a good alignment. the car will feel so much better with those. and good tires

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

I guess I just really am trying to ask which spring rates work the best for what conditions... not trying to get advice on a full suspension setup...

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

It's all about balance. You could have a capable car running several different setups.
General rule is drag racing you want soft springs and for all the above stuff you need stiffer ones general speaking. A lot of people use 600 front and 150 rear. But then you have to get the Koni's to match them or go coil overs. I dont' think there is going to be set answer for each on of them activities.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Actually, they aren't hateful... it's the LS1 springs that are more troublesome. Though there are LT1 Pro-kit issues, mostly that they won't allow the use of Koni's (you can, you just won't be able to adjust the front shocks). Actually an LT1 Pro-kit actually works @ around the rates I build my springs with. But there are differences. Mine don't block access to adjustment on Koni's. Mine physically weigh about 13 pound less per set. Mine have no progressive rate change at all.

Seriously, the LT1 springs aren't hateful and there are many worse ones. But they are too compromised in a few ways.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

To answer the question. YMMV. You'll get a lot of differing opinions about what rates you need. Bottom line is that all the activities have something in common. You want balance and predictability and grip. But as road speeds vary the cars tend to become looser @ higher speeds. Which is why I just don't get why some folks run really high rear springs rates.

All I can tell you is this. My stuff is not only pretty well proven on a bigger scale for autox. But I've had a number of folks in my car on the street, and they'll also attest the car is very driveable and not scary or kidney-busting (and I have a lot of twisty roads around here to take them on test-drives). And I do run open track event from time to time, and I change very little from my autox setup to do it. Alignment, brake pads being the big changes.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Unless I was trying to seriously compete and make tuning changes after each run, which I'm not, I would just use the same setup for all 3 of those.

For canyon carving, I'd probably make sure I had a really big chisel. woka woka

gun5l1ng3r

I thought they used Dynamite for that!

But on a serious note, Sam has given some very good information...