Road course and autoX setups
Road course and autoX setups What is a perfect setup for road course and autox? List all the body and suspension components u see needed.... Example:
1. 1" drop springs from Eibach.
2. 32mm front sway and 21mm rear sway from BMR.
3. etc...
Thank you.
1. 1" drop springs from Eibach.
2. 32mm front sway and 21mm rear sway from BMR.
3. etc...
Thank you.
Re: Road course and autoX setups Sorry to disappoint you, but there is no "perfect" setup.
It's more about driving style, skill and comfort level than hard parts.
Some people like heavy front springs and a light sway bar, while others like soft springs and a massive sway bar. Each seem to work for a driver's particular preference.
For a starting point on a road course, I like a #550 front spring and Bilstein shock with a 1LE (32mm) front bar which works very well for me. I can take or leave the STB ... saw no real handling difference. Boxed subframes so that I can jack up the car and poly/rod LCAs and poly/poly APHB.
I have Koni SAs and a progessive spring out back because if I bottom out the suspension, I have infinite spring rate. That's bad.
To reduce wheel hop on acceleration and braking I have G2 torque arm. None better, IMHO. Adjustable TAs work great for acceleration but will kill your rear end on braking because of the massive wheel hop.
Tires ...
Hoosiers are fantastic for about 3 or 4 hours of track time.
Kuhmos last 10 times as long and are good during the first 1/3, great during the 2nd 1/3 and greasey during the last 1/3 of their life.
Nittos are spongey during the first couple of heat cycles, but then become very consistant for the rest of their tread life. The last about as long as the Kuhmos ... maybe longer.
Brakes ...
Aggressive pads will make the car freaking STOP ... but at the price of your rotors. Get pad friendly rotors and the car has to be babied quite a bit. And your brake fluid will cook, so it will need constant service ...
PITA, ain't it .... but all that pain goes away when you run down and pass a 911 or M3 ...
It's more about driving style, skill and comfort level than hard parts.
Some people like heavy front springs and a light sway bar, while others like soft springs and a massive sway bar. Each seem to work for a driver's particular preference.
For a starting point on a road course, I like a #550 front spring and Bilstein shock with a 1LE (32mm) front bar which works very well for me. I can take or leave the STB ... saw no real handling difference. Boxed subframes so that I can jack up the car and poly/rod LCAs and poly/poly APHB.
I have Koni SAs and a progessive spring out back because if I bottom out the suspension, I have infinite spring rate. That's bad.
To reduce wheel hop on acceleration and braking I have G2 torque arm. None better, IMHO. Adjustable TAs work great for acceleration but will kill your rear end on braking because of the massive wheel hop.
Tires ...
Hoosiers are fantastic for about 3 or 4 hours of track time.
Kuhmos last 10 times as long and are good during the first 1/3, great during the 2nd 1/3 and greasey during the last 1/3 of their life.
Nittos are spongey during the first couple of heat cycles, but then become very consistant for the rest of their tread life. The last about as long as the Kuhmos ... maybe longer.
Brakes ...
Aggressive pads will make the car freaking STOP ... but at the price of your rotors. Get pad friendly rotors and the car has to be babied quite a bit. And your brake fluid will cook, so it will need constant service ...
PITA, ain't it .... but all that pain goes away when you run down and pass a 911 or M3 ...
Re: Road course and autoX setups Thanks alot... How about if i want a netural feel, what should i get? .. I personally like more oversteer than understeer, but it is very hard to do now since i have the nittos back and dunlops back with the boat like suspension.
Re: Road course and autoX setups I called Lou at LG motorsport and man I never saw someone as helpful. He did hook me up with a great package which includes: Eibach springs(sport Kit), Bilestin shocks, subframe connectors, adjustable LCA with the brackets needed, engine tower bay brace, adjustable panrod, and front rear sways. Im going to get the Torque arms later on with the clutch. Cant wait 4 days to get it 
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Re: Road course and autoX setups
To reduce wheel hop on acceleration and braking I have G2 torque arm. None better, IMHO. Adjustable TAs work great for acceleration but will kill your rear end on braking because of the massive wheel hop.
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Road course and autoX setups THe brake hop he was mentioning is "brake hop". When you are on the brakes hard and running on race compound tires, the back axle will sometimes (most of the time???) hop violently. It is like standard wheelhop, but during braking (but maybe even worse than acceleration wheel hop). I hope this clarifies it somewhat....
Re: Road course and autoX setups Maybe I should've asked Mitch this Q here:
I've an '02 TA and would like to continue to go to the road course. The instructors all say to disable the ABS for the track. I've run across other "FBody" heads who indicate the ABS controls the brake proportioning valve. If the ABS is disabled then you've disabled the computer controlled ABS Pro. Valve and introduced increased rear wheel braking, not a good thing. Is there any solution to this issue and achieving the desired "non abs brake" system I'm after.
Best Regards and thanks for your insight
Steve
I've an '02 TA and would like to continue to go to the road course. The instructors all say to disable the ABS for the track. I've run across other "FBody" heads who indicate the ABS controls the brake proportioning valve. If the ABS is disabled then you've disabled the computer controlled ABS Pro. Valve and introduced increased rear wheel braking, not a good thing. Is there any solution to this issue and achieving the desired "non abs brake" system I'm after.
Best Regards and thanks for your insight
Steve
Re: Road course and autoX setups I discussed this with several racers, like Mike PAtterson, Lou Gigliotti, Neal Bellamy and they all have led me to believe that ABS is a good thing. Disabling it is asking for trouble.
If you are getting a LOT of wheel hop on braking, then I would think that ...
torque arm is flexing/binding
LCAs are binding
too much forward weight transfer
too much brake pedal
1 or a combination of them is the likely culprit, all based upon my limited knowledge and experience.
If you are getting a LOT of wheel hop on braking, then I would think that ...
torque arm is flexing/binding
LCAs are binding
too much forward weight transfer
too much brake pedal
1 or a combination of them is the likely culprit, all based upon my limited knowledge and experience.
Re: Road course and autoX setups How does one brake deep and late when approaching a curve and yet avoid "too much brake pedal"???? That's when it happens to me. Is it a question of a kinder & gentler application of brakes? How do I promise my instructor "No new spin-outs??"
I have the G2 Non Adjustable torque arm on order. I'll hopefully have some feedback in the near future. Not for this w'end however. In the Mid Atlantic it's set to be a rainy w'end.
Steve
I have the G2 Non Adjustable torque arm on order. I'll hopefully have some feedback in the near future. Not for this w'end however. In the Mid Atlantic it's set to be a rainy w'end.
Steve
Re: Road course and autoX setups Begin your braking earlier, be gentler on it, be finished before you turn, be on throttle at apex ...
This equates to slow in, smooth transition, and fast out. You will be smoother and faster than waiting till the last possible second to brake.
On the gas means weight transfer to the rear and more rear grip. 9 times out of 10 one loops the car because of unloading the rear of the car ... I can speak from experience ...
This equates to slow in, smooth transition, and fast out. You will be smoother and faster than waiting till the last possible second to brake.
On the gas means weight transfer to the rear and more rear grip. 9 times out of 10 one loops the car because of unloading the rear of the car ... I can speak from experience ...
Re: Road course and autoX setups
What is a perfect setup for road course and autox? List all the body and suspension components u see needed.... Example:
1. 1" drop springs from Eibach.
2. 32mm front sway and 21mm rear sway from BMR.
3. etc...
Thank you.
1. 1" drop springs from Eibach.
2. 32mm front sway and 21mm rear sway from BMR.
3. etc...
Thank you.
The rest is just icing on the cake . . . Re: Road course and autoX setups I just installed the LG Motorsport Torque Arm. I went on w/o much difficulty and it makes a world of difference. Lou and his son were just great to deal with and in answering all of my questions regarding the install process. I give them absolutely top ratings for their customer support and help.
One suggestion they gave me prior to receipt of the parts was to safety wire the mounting bolts at the rear end. I was able to get a new set of them and had the heads of the bolts drilled at a machine shop and obtained the wire to hand the whole package to the installation mechanic. It went very smoothly.
Regards
Steve
One suggestion they gave me prior to receipt of the parts was to safety wire the mounting bolts at the rear end. I was able to get a new set of them and had the heads of the bolts drilled at a machine shop and obtained the wire to hand the whole package to the installation mechanic. It went very smoothly.
Regards
Steve
Re: Road course and autoX setups LGM takes a LOT of crap based upon some sort of misplaced ire. I don't understand why ....
Bar none, they make the BEST suspension components to make an F-Body handle.
Bar none, they make the BEST suspension components to make an F-Body handle.
Re: Road course and autoX setups Are Hawk HPS pads rotor friendly? I'm getting Brembo blanks at the same time as new pads and I'd like to keep these rotors for a few years. Or should I just go with some ceramic pads? This will be mainly for aggressive street driving. Thanks.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
I had a 01 SS with the following:
Hotchkiss Springs
Bilstien HD's
Hotchkiss Sway Bar Set (TBYRNE)
Global West Tracklink (its a torque arm)
Kenny Brown DD SFC's
Hotchkiss LCA
Hotchkiss PHR
Lightweight Kmember
MBR Upper and Lower Control Arms
A LOT of alignment changes lol
275/40/17 A032R's front
315/35/17 AO32R's back
Wolfe Six Point Roll Cage
No seats except driver seat (Sparco racing seat with kidney support)
Let me tell you this thing handed a LOT of vettes and Porsches their ***, but then again let me give you a BIG piece of advice "DRIVER MATTERS!!"
Hotchkiss Springs
Bilstien HD's
Hotchkiss Sway Bar Set (TBYRNE)
Global West Tracklink (its a torque arm)
Kenny Brown DD SFC's
Hotchkiss LCA
Hotchkiss PHR
Lightweight Kmember
MBR Upper and Lower Control Arms
A LOT of alignment changes lol
275/40/17 A032R's front
315/35/17 AO32R's back
Wolfe Six Point Roll Cage
No seats except driver seat (Sparco racing seat with kidney support)
Let me tell you this thing handed a LOT of vettes and Porsches their ***, but then again let me give you a BIG piece of advice "DRIVER MATTERS!!"
Originally Posted by mitchntx
To reduce wheel hop on acceleration and braking I have G2 torque arm. None better, IMHO. Adjustable TAs work great for acceleration but will kill your rear end on braking because of the massive wheel hop.