HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

This is such a weird thread. From removing subframe connectors with a dremel tool, to the sensitive asses of the guys complaining SFC's are making their car ride rough. Weird stuff here.

OldeSkool

Yeah but it was not a problem, just put the disk right up against either the edge of the SFC or up against the body.

Im not saying this is the best or the fastest way, just that it is possible and it leaves the car unharmed and you could even sell the SFC's, if someone would buy them.

Or give them to ol' smoky since he has sex with them or something and can't stand it when someone knocks them. takes it personally or whatever

OldeSkool

Yes, for now but after hearing from you and others with Strano's springs, I'll be picking up a set as soon as I can

OldeSkool

My 89 IROC had 500 pounds over my SS, it also had 200,000 miles and no problems as you describe

Its fine to come in here and express your opinion but leave the attitude out of it, there's no need for the "I'm god of all cars" attitude, makes you sound even dumber.

Ps I'm done listening to you. We've all heard that misinformation spread all over this forum before by people just like you, thats probably where you got it from to begin with.

revtime

iTrader: (1)

I think you are confusing "misinformation" for opinions.
Please don't call it misinformation if its just your opinion.

Subframe cars flex. Thats a fact.

Personally I have seen what big horsepower does to a subframe car without connectors. I will continue to run them on my cars.

Of course this is just my "opinion" you are welcome to yours.

SSWS6

Personally I think subframe connectors help, but I don't think anyone could argue that they certainly can't hurt if you launch your car hard at the strip. They connect to mounting points on the body which is part of the frame on a unibody. Launching a car hard puts a lot of stress on the subframe and I feel more comfortable with them.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Sigh. To each his own, said the woman as she kissed her horse's ***. (My dad used to say that.)

Ironhead

Wrong.

Jack up a 3rd gen and take a look at the rockers. Now do the same on a 4th gen. The rockers on the newer car are huge. A cross section would reveal a bunch of folded sheetmetal. It's essentially a factory SFC.

Nobody is saying that SFCs don't make the car stronger. They're saying that SFCs are not a must have like they were on the 3rd gens.

People that have had SFCs and removed them have found an almost imperceptible difference provided they have good shocks on the car.

SMOKY

iTrader: (4)

Im really not upset at all. I genuinely Sp.? just like a good argument. I have also done a lot of research and invested a lot of money into learning about chassis fab and how to make a stronger chassis from a factory car. I also giver my opinion and facts. Yes a car will ride rougher with sub frame connectors, but it is just the way the suspension is designed to have a rough ride. The subframe connectors just allow the suspension to work as stated earlier. But to each his own. I personally dont like chassis flex and want to eliminate as mouch as possible since it allows more power reach the ground instead of flexing a car. Thats also a statement that people will argue but thats fine. And using a dremel to remove your subframes I think is a little crazy but you got it to work so more power to ya.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

from your description (original poster) sounds more like the subframes were installed wrong to begin with.. and possibly welded on without the suspension loaded. You said they were attached to an "insignificant piece of sheet metal".. umm.. proper subframe connectors go from the rear LCA's to the front frame craddle.. NOT attach to the floor pan..

who put these in? Was this installed on a 2 post lift where the suspension is unloaded? who welded these on?? I dont know about you.. but those welds must have SUCKED *** to be removed by a cheap dremel.. either the welds were weak or your dremel is supercharged.. with a diamond tip cut off wheel

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

OldeSkool

No, I had the car on a drive on lift. The suspension was loaded and I even had a friend of my same weight sit in the drivers seat.

Yes, they are attached to an insignificant area of the car AT THE FRONT. They just run up the channels on the side and stop where they have to, If they bent over at an angle and actually attached to the front subframe, that'd be cool, but they dont, they attach too far over to the side. Haven't seen any that do what you say they do.

And the welds were plenty strong. Gimme a dremel and I can cut your car in half, just may take a while. you must not have much experience with a dremel, and you obviously haven't bought one because the Dremel brand costs 2 or 3 times as much as the copycats. I even made a 2 inch cut through the thick steel flange in one spot in order to get the disk closer to the weld I was working on.

Mekkadon

iTrader: (3)

I think they work well when you are launching. It improved my 60 ft times by quite a bit.

OldeSkool

Launching is for people who don't know what a corner is.

Again, I never intended this to be a subframe argument.

Sure, if you have slicks and 4.10 and a trans brake and tons of power and all that foolishness, anything you can do to stiffen your car is probably a good thing. If you fit that description, I'd probably want to do something a little better than SFC's.

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

well my car rides like ****. i have stock shocks, pro springs and no subframes. i think koni's are in my future

OldeSkool

Revalves are a more affordable option, but I think the koni's are worth the extra money

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest taking the Ttops off and finding the roughest, bumpiest, curvy road you can find. Use your butt-o-meter and see if you can feel the unibody being used as a fifth spring. Yes, it's true, SFC's can have a slightly negative affect on ride quality but I prefer the peace of mind of knowing I'm no longer driving a pretzel.

OldeSkool

Trust me, no one can relate to your concerns about driving around in a sloppy chassis more than me. What do you think drove me to welding these things to my car in the first place?

But you gotta realize that ALL cars flex a little. Even a nicely designed tubular spaceframe. The question is how much do they flex? And the next question is how much of a difference will welding those 2 bars in actually make? If a car is made out of metal and if its going to be at all within a reasonable weight limit, there's going to be flex. Thats why carbon fiber chassis like some of the mega-bucks exotics have are so nice, VERY rigid yet still light.

If you really believe that these cars are so sloppy that welding 2 bars underneath will make a significant difference, fine, do it. But I firmly believe that they dont do anything except transmit noise from the back of the car up to the passenger compartment.

And for the record, removing the T-Tops shouldn't have any kind of an effect on the ol Butt-O-Meter because they dont have make any sort of structural contribution to the car being that they're held on by 2 sliding pins. If you feel a difference, its probably imagined, just like the flex you imagine yourself feeling. Just like the improvement I imagined myself feeling when I installed my SFC's years ago

Mekkadon

iTrader: (3)

Fixed.