How to keep lca's/phr quiet
#1
How to keep lca's/phr quiet
I know there is prob a lot of post on this but what do you know the search is down again. Ive lubed the bushings several times and I still get that crunch noise from the poly bushings. I used the good lube also (super lube) ive sprayed them and used a air powered grease gun on the grease fittings. Is there some kind of trick to this?? My friend has some and his dont make any noise I dont get it. I have the UMI poly/rod lca's and a spohn poly/poly phr.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (39)
I'm getting the same results. Just installed a 9in with UMI T/A, T/A relocation kit, LCA's, PHB. all single adjustable....and this thing is driving me nuts. You can hear/feel a banging on every little bump. I pumped them with grease until it came out everywhere. If this is how its going to be, some of this **** is coming off.
#9
My stuff is fine no clunking or anything just on bumps at slow speeds I hear the noise from the poly bushings. Im going to grease them really good with the hand pump grease gun next time I have the car out till its running out all over like said and hopefully that should do it. If you hear/feel banging something isnt tight or something is hitting.
#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (32)
... mine sounded like the polyurethane bushing. I lubed them, bled the grease out and re-greased ... did it all. It turned out to be the kevlar clutches in my posi unit. I ordered my 12-bolt with the HD Eaton posi option and when a shop replaced the pinion seal, they used the synthetic rearend lubricant ... not the mineral-based non-synthetic lube which Eaton says is required. It was driving me NUTS!!! Everytime I would slow down and slightly turn right or left, I'd get gear chatter and that friggin' poly-urethane binding sound.
I even had the rearend completely disassembled and they found nothing wrong with the rearend components. It was just completely torn down again and nithing wrong. Finally figured out it was the type fluids they had used in it to begin with. The fluids are getting changed Tuesday of this week.
I even had the rearend completely disassembled and they found nothing wrong with the rearend components. It was just completely torn down again and nithing wrong. Finally figured out it was the type fluids they had used in it to begin with. The fluids are getting changed Tuesday of this week.
#18
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Ruckus46Gt
ok dumb question under load do you mean put the car back on the ground and crawl under there or after you swap them and take the jack from under the rear tighten them again
I just installed my rod/rod PHB and poly/rod LCAs from UMI this past Friday night, and spent a lot of Saturday tweaking and tightening things to remove all the rattles. Today was rattle and squeak free (and I think I ended up putting 7 pumps of lube in the LCAs.
Two things to keep in mind. Make sure the rod ends on the LCAs are properly lined up with the front mounting point. If they're off at too much of an angle either way they're going to bind up when the axle rotates. Also, make sure all the jam nuts are tight as well. While the LCAs aren't at risk of coming apart, mine weren't fully tightened from UMI and both sides loosened up and were one source of rattling until I tightened them up.
#20
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anyone make an adjustable rubber bushing phr? i know i dont have a caddi but i have enough squeeking as it is. i thought the rod ends were suposed to be quieter. looks like im not buyin those.