slick1851

Ill state this, my freind has a firehawk with QALs in front and comp drag shocks in the rear with prokit springs

RIDES LIKE ****! But feels alot safer than how my car was in high turns

QA1-R coilovers up front, no front sway bar with stock rear sus.......NOT FUN AT ALL!

OGNaysayer

i have qa1 all around myself with 275# springs in front and stock springs in the back. i don't go to the track enough anymore to justify driving around with the drag springs, it sucks. if i go to the 325# spring will it change the ride hight at all? plus, i can't remember whats involved going from the drag spring to the 325# spring. something about a spring cup or something right?

JD_AMG

Just sell them and go back to stock or 1LE springs, unless you want the car to be lowered (look into strano springs).

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

I have a nice setup that Jason (Unbalanced Engineering) put together a while back for another buddy of mine. They are re-valved Koni Doubles (will hold up to a 1000lb spring up front) with 650lb Afco coilover springs up front and Koni Doubles out back with Hotchkis (my choice not Jasons) springs out back (non coil-over) I put 1LE sway bars on it, with poly end links.

The car rides great (gets a tad choppy on a horrible road) but it doesnt bounce around at all, on a smooth road, it feels stock. The car handles great and I am constantly embarrasing italian "exotic" cars through the twisties. Great setup and I will NEVER go back to bilsteins, not while the purpose of my car remains as it is now anyways.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The rear of your car is very much what I set up. The front of your car has a bit stiffer spring, but smaller swaybars. An exchange you can make if you want to, but I stay with the bigger front bar and little lighter springs for two reasons. The ride, which you say is choppy (and that might also be the shock setting and valving), and the fact that 3mm more swaybar (35mm) has more effect on body roll than 100 pounds of spring rate.

To me it's no lose to have the car roll less and ride bumps better. But overall you are quite close to what I use most of the time.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, Im very happy with the setup.

By the way Sam, I was wondering if you have checked out Jasons torque arm setup and I was wondering what you thought of it? (unbalancedengineering.com)

I was thinking about going with the Global West tracklink again (my old one got sold with my old car) or possibly stepping up to Jasons unit... Just want some input before I make up my mind... Thanks!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Oh.... that's putting me in a tough position. I think Jason did a great job of putting it together and all. I personally have more than a few issues with de-coupled torque arms. If you want specifics I'd be happy to discuss them with you, but it's not my place to say much more publicly.

And to stop this getting out of hand. Yes, I run long TA's that don't de-couple. I prefer them, as I've run de-coupling ones before. If you are inclined to buy one, I'd recommend Jason's over the rest. However, I'd explore all the information you can about them.

They can help brake hop (or stop it), but so can more normal TA's like what I use. And some cars still get crazy brake-hop because it's not always a TA problem alone (again, same with more normal style arms). I will say a short one like UB's would put power down because of the instant center change, but that creates new issues, like power on understeer because of traction, and that leads to a myriad more tuning fun.

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

I cut a 1.47 60ft. with stock shocks and springs all the way around. How much better will my 60ft. be if I went with a set of afco double adjustables? The car is more of a drag car than it is street. My car has less than 2,000 miles on it so I would throw the stock shocks back in for street duty but right now I need all the help I can get to try to get this thing in the 9's. Time to start making improvments on the stock suspension