Pinion angle setting....
the measurements you gave us give you a pinion angle of 10* if i am not mistaken. If both angles were at -5*, that would give you a pinion angle of 0*
measurement at rear end - measurement at driveshaft
(-5)-5=-10, so now your pinion angle is -10*
are you taking the measurement from the top of the crank pulley or the bottom, because if you measure it from the top and record +5*, it might actually be -5*.
Are all measurements taken at ride height or with the car up on ramps or jack stands?
(-5)-5=-10, so now your pinion angle is -10*
are you taking the measurement from the top of the crank pulley or the bottom, because if you measure it from the top and record +5*, it might actually be -5*.
Are all measurements taken at ride height or with the car up on ramps or jack stands?
yes the measurement was taken with jackstands under the rear, but the suspension was loaded. The measurement on the crank was taken at the face of the crank pulley.
Adjust the torque arm so that the needle points to the exact same spot on BOTH the driveshaft and the mounting plate on the differential.
This means you have a perfect 0* pinion angle. If you REALLY want to have a -2* pinion angle (which I do not advise for street driven cars) you simply adjust it so that the pinion starts to move down towards the ground. you can see which way the pinion goes when you turn the adjuster a certain way so it shouldnt be difficult to know that you're going down (negative). Just do it a little at a time and check with the finder. As you go you'll see that the gap gradually widens from being 37 and 37 (or whatever) to 38 and 36 and once the spread is 2 and youre sure that you adjusted it down and not up... you'll have a -2 pinion angle
However, your best bet is to go with 0 for a street driven car for 2 reasons.
1. You'll be certain that your pinion angle isn't way off. because if the DS and the pinion read the same number, you'll know that its 0
2. Its better for your pinion. less noise, less wear and most street driven cars aren't powerful enough to flex an aftermarket torque arm enough to need anything other than 0 degree pinion angle. The only reason for a negative pinion angle is so that when the car launches and things flex, the pinion angle comes up to 0 at launch and is less likely to break. But most street cars with an aftermarket TA are only going to be fudging the pinion angle maybe 1 degree at launch. +1 degree at launch with less than 500 HP and slicks is going to be totally fine. and its better than driving around all the time with a noisy and quickly wearing pinion
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the measurements you gave us give you a pinion angle of 10* if i am not mistaken. If both angles were at -5*, that would give you a pinion angle of 0*
measurement at rear end - measurement at driveshaft
For the record .. using the crank pulley to measure "pinion angle" is useless, unless you factor in the tailshaft angle (which is WAY to complicated!!). The drive shaft has 2 angles .. one at the pinion and one at the tailshaft of the transmission. Each is different. The roll of the rear axle will determine pinion angle.
I hope that helps ...
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