K-member, Motor Mounts and Shock Install
#21
Took about 7 hours but it is done. The most time consuming part was getting the motor mounts installed. A big thanks to my friends Chris for the use of his facilities and experience, Jason for having nothing else better to do on a SAT, and Mike for helping in finishing the project off. For those that use jack stands to accomplish this I don't know how you do it.
UMI K-member w/ upper and lower A-arms
QA1 Generation F front and rear shocks with 300lb springs
Prothane motor mounts
UMI K-member w/ upper and lower A-arms
QA1 Generation F front and rear shocks with 300lb springs
Prothane motor mounts
No problem John. It`s nice getting to wrench on a vehicle every now and then. Oh..and Thanks for the wings!!!
#22
John got his quals signed off yesterday for doing headers on a LSx Fbody with an aftermarket K member. He did the collector wiggle. Now it's up to Jason's mad weldin skillz to finish the install.
#23
#28
It's aligned! Dude was not cheap though. Also he had to fanagle the rear lower A arm attachment location to the K-member. His tool didn't fit in the areas he was use to using to adjust "caster" so he used other methods. The whole process took just shy of 2 hours and that included greasing the 4 zerks in each wheel well since they had not been done yet.
Car rides a little stiff up front so I will have to play with the shock setting. I was able to take an off ramp at a speed that I would never have tried in stock form.
Drive train is solid with the poly motor and trans mount. I myself do not notice much more vibration resonated through the trans stick. I have read that many will keep that mount stock but it feels about like it did prior to changing the mount...thanks Chris.
Car rides a little stiff up front so I will have to play with the shock setting. I was able to take an off ramp at a speed that I would never have tried in stock form.
Drive train is solid with the poly motor and trans mount. I myself do not notice much more vibration resonated through the trans stick. I have read that many will keep that mount stock but it feels about like it did prior to changing the mount...thanks Chris.
#29
You may feel it more when you get rid of that PoS stock shifter. (Then I won't hear how you missed 3rd when I whoop up on you with the C6 )
I forgot to say something about where we left the shock settings. You may just have to drive it and see how it feels then adjust them again and drive it some more. Figure out where they are and keep notes how you adjust them so you can always reset them after going to the track.
The welding is done on the Formula, Jason did a bang up job, now I have to put it back together. Tomorrow's project
BPS Saturday?
Next time we'll take it Glenn, really didn't want to take it that far.
I forgot to say something about where we left the shock settings. You may just have to drive it and see how it feels then adjust them again and drive it some more. Figure out where they are and keep notes how you adjust them so you can always reset them after going to the track.
The welding is done on the Formula, Jason did a bang up job, now I have to put it back together. Tomorrow's project
BPS Saturday?
Next time we'll take it Glenn, really didn't want to take it that far.
#30
Those springs do look to be a little on the stiff side. But adjust the shocks to the softest setting and work your way up from there. So are we going to see you at BPS?
#31
I will be at BPS this weekend and will take some pictures of the car to show how it sits for this thread.. The SS just broke the 10,000 mile mark btw.
#32
I'm pretty sure he got the 300 lb/in springs which are actually a tab softer than stock. Don't bother dropping the shock settings to 0 or 1. I can tell you from experience that those settings are too soft for the street.
#33
If they are on 6 then maybe go to 4 and see how you like it. Too soft is not good on the street. Get into a OHCRAP situation sloppy handling will bite you in the rear.
#34
He still has the front sway bar on guys. It won`t be like mine (and I thought you guys cars) where the sway was off running around on the street. If those springs are less than stock then starting at 6 would probably be good, but the coils were larger than the stock ones, so I think starting low and working up would be fine as well. 6 is the mid point and would probably be a good start point if he is going to drive it for a while before adjusting. When I did mine I went out specificly to check the ride and adjusted them probably 8 times w/ in about 5 miles to find the setting I liked best. I ended up w/ a 10 setting w/ the sway bar off w/ the drag springs on the street. 2 up front for race day...
#36
I hear ya Chris. I know its not the safest thing thing to do ...lol.. W/ the shocks on 10 though it would take a little dip into the corner and even up and be fine the rest of the way through. Excess of 100mph runs were a little squirley though.. Your car was squirley even w/ the sway bar, I`ll never forgot 564.....