Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

Strano spring results before after SLP pro-rate

Old 11-05-2007, 11:29 AM
  #1  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (115)
 
99blancoSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ST Helens, OR
Posts: 9,892
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default Strano spring results before after SLP pro-rate

To make a long story short I'm chasing a few issue's in the front end. Needed to replace the rack and Koni shocks and decided to do springs as well, heard good things about Sam's so I changed over to them. Over all drop was an even 1/4" vs the pro-rate springs that came with the SLP SS suspension package. They evened the front end where before it was a 1/4 lower on the drivers side. Car is still 3/4 " higher in back but its better than the inch difference it was before. Seem's to be a softer ride, they were just installed not sure of the settle time if any at all? But definately not as harsh as the koni and pro-rate. Still chasing a few things but I'm concerned about the 1/4 " in the front end. I've got 18x35's up there and I got a little rub on a bump both tires. Overall the car is lower I get a scrape from my ds loop going into my driveway where before I didnt unless I hit it with a little speed. Thats not a big concern the loop can be altered it hangs low to begin with.

So I guess Sam if you care to comment what do you think about the 18 up front? GO slower over bumps or go back to 17"s or is there a trick to compensate or a higher rate spring? You da man what are your thoughts? Go back to the pro-rate's? As far as the Konis adj I went full (9 1/2 turns) and then backed off 3 1/2 turns.
Old 11-05-2007, 01:19 PM
  #2  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
Sam Strano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 9,581
Received 128 Likes on 83 Posts

Default

Are your front tires the same, smaller, or larger in height (actual diameter) as stock? If the tires are shorter, the car will sit lower and that has nothing to do with the suspension..... If you drag your loop, you can and should raise it since you said it hangs low anyway, so that's not a bad idea any way you slice it.

As for the "rub". What are the tires rubbing????? What is the rim offset (again, the tire size too). My 315's in front will rub the inner fender at full compression, but the tire is just a lot wider and the car is lower, and the outside of the tire is more outside than it is stock. With custom wheels and tires, this happens a lot. Again, not a suspension issue as I guarantee it wouldn't happen on stock size wheels and tires.

As for the rear. If you want it slighly lower, you can pull the isolator and do the hose mod which will get you about another 1/2" or so lower in the rear.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450

18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.

Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
Old 11-05-2007, 01:21 PM
  #3  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
 
SIK02SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

is it rubbing just the plastic? if so, do it a few more times and it'll settle in and remold to a new position to accommodate
Old 11-05-2007, 02:44 PM
  #4  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (115)
 
99blancoSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ST Helens, OR
Posts: 9,892
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

275x35x18, I forget what stock was other than 17" zr1's. Like I said I'm fighting a few issues I think I have a bad wheel bearing so I'm trying to indentify noises while driving, its not easy in this car. Still trying to isolate that issue. I'm not really worried about the 3/4 " in the back, it's very subtle. I'll post a pic.

So theres no confusion the car does ride much nicer. The other combo was faily stiff, this seems to take the rough spots smoother, I'm not complaining at all, just trying to dial it in. I'm going to have someone look at the wheel bearing, there is something definately not right, I can hear a rub/noise when I spin the wheel, doesnt seem to be coming from the pads, seems centered in the wheel hub but I'm hearing pins drop at this point trying to figure it out. Need another person to listen to it. Sounds like the original war of the world's when the space craft opened.
It doesnt really do it when you sping it slow but when you give a good forecful spin you can hear it no problem. Also I can swear it slows my car down on a turn in one direction. Taking a right hand turn is when I have the issue and the sound is coming from the right hand tire..passenger side.

I couldnt see anywhere where the tire was rubbing. Last time it was a ball joint issue but they all looked and felt tight this time.
Old 11-05-2007, 02:52 PM
  #5  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
 
93TAWicked1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portlan, OR
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

How is your torque arm and Nine inch doing? I get alot of rubbing I was thinking of buying strano springs to try and raise the rear up from my current Jamex setup. could you measure your rear to see if the strano springs will give me a little more room?
Old 11-05-2007, 03:52 PM
  #6  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (115)
 
99blancoSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ST Helens, OR
Posts: 9,892
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok, mech confirmed bad wheel bearing and I think the endlinks are too tight and thats the other noise: swaybar or links groaning. poly links. also there is a plastic bushing thing on the steering column in the engine bay that is disloged as well.

I dont have any issues with the rears at all right now, but I really havent pushed it on a corner yet due to the front issues. Bearing gets replaced weds and I'll have him adjust the end links and check the toe. I believe I got it all back together in the same spot when I swapped the rack but you never know. I measured it all as I was taking it apart.

The white springs and yellow konis with the black tubular a-arms does make a pretty combo though


If the front is too bouncy do I + or - the adjustment?
Old 11-05-2007, 04:52 PM
  #7  
TECH Senior Member
 
JD_AMG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St.Charles MO
Posts: 5,803
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Ok, mech confirmed bad wheel bearing and I think the endlinks are too tight and thats the other noise: swaybar or links groaning. poly links. also there is a plastic bushing thing on the steering column in the engine bay that is disloged as well.
Does the other noise sound like an old bed creeking? Mine did this when I had the stock sway bars, and it went away with my new ones. So I think its safe to assume it was the swaybar bushings, you might just want to replace yours if they are not newer ones(also grease them).
If the front is too bouncy do I + or - the adjustment?
Bouncing like the car doesn't want to settle after hitting a bump? +
Old 11-06-2007, 07:26 PM
  #8  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (115)
 
99blancoSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ST Helens, OR
Posts: 9,892
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok new rule.. no $220 bearing/hubs! I was thinking old school. Guess I can handle this one myself..lol 4 bolts and your done. I still need them to check the toe though. Freaking expensive bearing though.


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:47 AM.