bmr trq arm=pain in the ass!
12-19-2007, 07:59 AM
#24
I've seen three of these BMR torque arms go on, all 2002 LS1s (my Z28, my brother's Z28, and my friends Trans Am). We all have a Moser 12-bolt but I installed differently than they did. We all ran into the problem where if we installed the TA on the outside bolts, it hit the tunnel and banged when driven. They decided to chop off the outside bolts and use the inside bolts, which solved the problem; I decided to let the shop heat up and tap in the tunnel a little bit where it was hitting, and that solved the problem as well.
I guess it's just a question of what you want to modify, the car or the torque arm. The place they tapped in on my car would never be noticed unless you were underneath the car looking for it, and even then you might not be able to tell where it happened. I figured a little tapping on the tunnel wouldn't hurt anything or be noticeable, whereas chopping a section off the torque arm might (although it almost surely won't) sacrifice the integrity of the TA where it bolts on to the rear. Just some more info for you in case you decide to upgrade the rear.
I guess it's just a question of what you want to modify, the car or the torque arm. The place they tapped in on my car would never be noticed unless you were underneath the car looking for it, and even then you might not be able to tell where it happened. I figured a little tapping on the tunnel wouldn't hurt anything or be noticeable, whereas chopping a section off the torque arm might (although it almost surely won't) sacrifice the integrity of the TA where it bolts on to the rear. Just some more info for you in case you decide to upgrade the rear.
12-19-2007, 05:59 PM
#25
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I've seen three of these BMR torque arms go on, all 2002 LS1s (my Z28, my brother's Z28, and my friends Trans Am). We all have a Moser 12-bolt but I installed differently than they did. We all ran into the problem where if we installed the TA on the outside bolts, it hit the tunnel and banged when driven. They decided to chop off the outside bolts and use the inside bolts, which solved the problem; I decided to let the shop heat up and tap in the tunnel a little bit where it was hitting, and that solved the problem as well.
I guess it's just a question of what you want to modify, the car or the torque arm. The place they tapped in on my car would never be noticed unless you were underneath the car looking for it, and even then you might not be able to tell where it happened. I figured a little tapping on the tunnel wouldn't hurt anything or be noticeable, whereas chopping a section off the torque arm might (although it almost surely won't) sacrifice the integrity of the TA where it bolts on to the rear. Just some more info for you in case you decide to upgrade the rear.
I guess it's just a question of what you want to modify, the car or the torque arm. The place they tapped in on my car would never be noticed unless you were underneath the car looking for it, and even then you might not be able to tell where it happened. I figured a little tapping on the tunnel wouldn't hurt anything or be noticeable, whereas chopping a section off the torque arm might (although it almost surely won't) sacrifice the integrity of the TA where it bolts on to the rear. Just some more info for you in case you decide to upgrade the rear.
and cheeper 
12-24-2007, 02:39 PM
#31
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This is why modding your car is such a pain. Every aftermarket part, no matter how well engineered, is going to be met with factory tolerances. On these cars, you never know how a part is going to fit. Doesn't mean the part is crap, or the company is incompitant. And I don't see how going with a BMR part is going to net you any more cash if/when you sell the part. Both companies make outstanding products, and their parts are nearly identical.
Thats right is called Modification for a reason . Not all cars are going to be easy to stall a bolt on
. IT takes TIME and Alot Patience 
12-26-2007, 05:46 PM
#33
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I finnally got minie lined out. Everything is working perfect now. The banging i was hearing was my y pipe which came loose at the header 
and the driveshaft balancer weight hitting the DS loop bar was because the crossmember was adjusted too far to the passanger side. Now everything is working perfect, Just became too fustrated with it when we installed it along with the 9" A+ for UMI
and the driveshaft balancer weight hitting the DS loop bar was because the crossmember was adjusted too far to the passanger side. Now everything is working perfect, Just became too fustrated with it when we installed it along with the 9" A+ for UMI
12-29-2007, 11:50 AM
#35
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What did you need a aftermarket torque arm for on a lowrider anyway?
Whats next front back side to side air bags on all 4 corners.
That thing wont ever see any track time HA HA HA!!!
Whats next front back side to side air bags on all 4 corners.
That thing wont ever see any track time HA HA HA!!!
01-01-2008, 08:30 AM
#39
lowering the car brings the rear closer to the tunnel and can cause fitment probs. lowering a car has its compromises but is worth it once you work out the kinks. BMR makes top notch stuff and Lee @ BMR is a car nut just like us with awesome support/warranty. Ohio Boys running 7s on BMR stuff.....you made the right choice 
01-01-2008, 07:36 PM
#40
I finnally got minie lined out. Everything is working perfect now. The banging i was hearing was my y pipe which came loose at the header and the driveshaft balancer weight hitting the DS loop bar was because the crossmember was adjusted too far to the passanger side. Now everything is working perfect, Just became too fustrated with it when we installed it along with the 9" A+ for UMI
and the driveshaft balancer weight hitting the DS loop bar was because the crossmember was adjusted too far to the passanger side. Now everything is working perfect, Just became too fustrated with it when we installed it along with the 9" A+ for UMI