giant016

iTrader: (4)

Let me start off by saying I know almost nothing about suspension. I have read a decent amount in this section, and it seems suspension-wise, AutoX and drag are opposites as far as suspension goes.

I don't have the $ or space for two cars, and I refuse to give up either form of racing. Basically I'm wondering if there are any adjustable setups out there that would fit my needs. I was thinking another option might be to try to find components that swap out easily so I could having a drag setup one day and a road race for the next. I don't have a ton of $, but I'm thinking of piecing a good setup together over time.

Also, are there ANY suspension things that will improve both drag and AutoX times?

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i doubt that there are any products out there that will let you get maximum performance out of both type of racing using the same components.....but if you're looking for absolute maximum performance in both types of racing on a single car, here's what you could do if you wanted to invest the time/money into doing it:
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get a set of springs/shocks that are designed for handling & install them (such as a Strano spring/Koni S/A shock setup), and get the car's alignment set up for auto-x/road race.

then, get another set of shocks/springs that are designed for drag racing. get an extra set of front strut mounts (the part that the top of the front shocks is mounted to, and keeps the front springs compressed) and assemble them & keep them that way & ready to install.

as for sway bars, get a front one that is good for handling, and two different rear bars, one for drag, one for handling.

get a set of rod/rod LCA's, LCA relocation brackets, a rod/rod PHR, an adjustable torque arm, and some subframe connectors....all of these parts are fine for both types of racing.

i'd swap out the rear end with a 12-bolt, as it would be a good compromise between being light enough for auto-x/road racing and heavy duty enough to handle drag racing launches....just be sure to get LCA relocation brackets for whatever rear end you get, and get them and the subframes welded in, instead of leaving them bolted-in.

also, keep 2 sets of wheels/tires, one for handling, one for drag racing
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when you want to drag race, swap in the drag shock/spring setup, the drag rear bar, and unbolt one of the swaybar endlinks up front.

then when you want to auto-x/road race, swap in your handling shocks/springs (which your car is already aligned for), re-connect the front swaybar endlink, and reinstall the "handling" rear swaybar.

swap out the wheels depending on which type of racing you'll be doing.

once you've done that a few times, i don't see why you couldn't swap from one setup to the other in about 1 - 1.5 hrs., and even less if you have someone to help you.



if you'd rather not go through that much trouble swapping between the two, just get it all setup for auto-x/road racing with a Koni/Strano shock/spring setup and some Strano swaybars.....this setup is adjustable, so you can still get some decent drag racing results....i've seen at least one person able to pull off 1.5 60' times on this suspension setup......if you do go this route, definitely get the 4/4 Koni shock setup instead of the 4/3, since you will be needing to adjust the rear shocks a lot.....the 4/3 setup requires that the shocks be removed to adjust them, while the 4/4 setup can be adjusted on the car.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I agree with 02Z28LS1. I can't be too specific, but the general plan he laid out is very good. I'd add to that a set of weld-in LCA brackets which would allow fast changes between the more stable handling friendly stock location, and the more drag oriented lower holes. I'd also add that I don't consider the double adjustable LCA's to be a necessity, usually single adjusts are fine. But, of course I don't have the detail I need to make more certain recommendations.

OldeSkool

what kind of power do you have. how much power are you certain you will have in the future?

9 times out of 10, there's no reason to aim for a "drag setup"

If you're around stock power levels 300-ish hp, it makes no sense to have a full on drag suspension because it really wont make you *that much* quicker.

If you have a whole lot of power and you have ALOT of trouble putting it to the ground, then you would need to worry about selecting drag components.

but if you have a normal amount of power, a handling oriented setup with the right tires should have no problem putting the power down.

I've used this example before, but will use it again.

Lamborghini: handles well and is fast in a straight line
Tubbed BBC Chevelle: Handles poorly but is fast in a straight line

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

4/3 shocks dont have to be removed to be adjusted. you have to take the rear tires off.....NOT the shocks. they can then be adjusted with a spanner type wrench.

gun5l1ng3r

So the wheel just has to come off so that you can depress the little "ball" thats acts as a catch?

And then you would just remove the bolt on top of the shock while in the car and turn the rod with the spanner wrench?

I always thought it would be easiest to take them off the car...I guess not.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Not to be argumentitive, but the "3" rear shocks have to be fully extended to adjust them. That cannot happen with the shock attached to the axle. And while some have figured ways to adjust them without removing them from the top (and I have), frankly it's just as easy to just undo two more nuts and get them out.

And I'm not sure what wrench you are talking about, the rear shocks in question here (as well as any other rear from Koni for this car) do not use any sort of wrench for adjustment. These require full extension, pushing a button and holding, then turning the actual shock rod.

The fronts are the same between the two sets (4/3 and 4/4) and are done on the car.

giant016

iTrader: (4)

The plan is to get a few suspension goodies now while money is tighter (power upgrades = breaking things = $) and when I'm done with school in 2 years I'll get a H/C package and a high stall. I'm thinking maybe 450RWHP.

I'll probably daily drive on the AutoX setup, I don't mind a stiff ride. I wasn't thinking a "full on" drag setup, but from what I learned a suspension setup for twisties is going to be real bad for the strip.

So are you guys saying that adjustable Koni's + removing the front sway bar + some drag radials will be acceptable at the strip with 400-450RWHP? I'm liking that idea, sounds like the simplest and probably not too expensive.

EDIT: What's the difference between a normal alignment and one setup for road racing? Also, I heard a mention of a 12bolt. Although that's a long way away, are you saying a 12bolt is better than a 9"?

OldeSkool

generally speaking a 12 bolt is lighter, a 9 inch is stronger. They're both far stronger than the stock piece

Solid axle cars have a stupid amount of unsprung weight. trying to keep unsprung weight down is one objective of a good handling setup.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

9" have far better options for limited slips that are meant for turning. There are also more choices of LSD in general. Stay with an aluminum center section and a 9" and the weight isn't horrible vs. a 12-bolt.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

I'll let someone else who better understands autos give details, but I think that a high stall is going to be bad for autox. I do know that there are quite a few guys running autos in autox that have gotten revalved valve bodies that keep the car in whatever gear the lever is in.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

All good info. AutoX & drag racing are at opposite ends of the sepctrum. Bottom line if you build a hybrid car, you WILL sacrifice performance in any one area. My car is built to drag race 1st & road race 2nd. It is NOT a great car for a road course, but does well at open road (higher speed, longer turns).

I have taken it on a road course, and I can run down just about any car in the straights. But all the corner carvers walk away in the turns. Plus I have so much power that with my 3400 stall & blown stroker that I have traction problems coming out of the turns.

But then it also runs 10s in the 1/4, so I'm OK with that. What you need to do is buy the stuff that will make the car work better in your main interest & live with the performance in the other areas. Guys like Sam will point you in the right direction once you decide.

I have HAL adj shocks & did have Eibach springs (changing to QA1s) and I could make it work good enough. If AutoX was my main interest, I probably would run Konis or Bilsteins. I also run big sways bars front & back all the time & just got used to how it handles. These cars can do it all stock, and you can improve them all at the same time. As long as you don't want to be the best at any one thing.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I should add another guy up here in the NW had a cam & headers WS6 that he setup primarily for road racing. He ran in the 150mph av class, top speed was 172 and his car was faster than Z06s on our road course (driver mod?). He also ran hi 12s in the 1/4 and he had Eibachs + Konis/Bilsteins & big sway bars + rod end LCAs.