Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I don't understand what's so confusing? Don't you think that TA's, LCA's, LCA brackets, and so on all act and react differently? Don't you agree that a car on drag radials might need different parts than a car on street tires?

Maybe I'm nuts (and I'm sure some think I am), but not every car, not ever driver, not ever track is the same. And I've seen plenty of times when a car with all kinds of crap is outlaunched by a much more stock car. Parts aren't to be just tossed at a car, I wouldn't do it if I was trying to fix a mis-fire or some other mechanical ill. Diagnose the problem, narrow it down to more specifics if you can. *THEN* buy the parts best for the problem. Is that irresponsible?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Is it just me, or does anyone else find this response ironically funny? Sam's point was that certain parts fix certain problems, and the BMR guy was totally confused

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

No it's not ironic or funny what is your point? you want to discuss something technical regarding suspension I am all ears go right ahead .....

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

a buddy bought the spohn torque arm and nothing else. picked up 1/2 sec on quarter. added drag. picked up another 1/4 sec. he had a 2000 a4 sleek hood

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

ok, Lee. three years ago i posted on this forum about making aluminum control arms. and you told me it wasn't strong enough.

Now after three years of thinking this. i just found out. BMR makes aluminum control arms. (product number ACA002) ( this is in your add "nobody will have to worry about breaking these" Lee you can't say this. aluminum aint strong.

lets discuss this.

wait. lets have you tell me that i was smart three years ago. and you didn't know the right amount of info to give me a "tech" answer. alumin is strong. and just fine. i ahve been running those alum arms for the last two years. they are great. better then the set of cvhromoly ones i bought from BMR.

now sorry for Hijacking the thread. just had to vent alittle after i found out i wasn't stupid.

and i still think torque arm is best deal for drag racing. i think sam is right. fix what is wrong. but as the power gets more and more. everything goes wrong.

F8L_LS1

iTrader: (5)

i would have to agree on doing both the t/a and lca's.
a good reference to this would be gmht magazine. they did t/a + lca's and i think they knocked off 2 tenths.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

No thanks. I was just being an *******

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

If this conversation was 3 years ago I can assume it was regarding an aluminum control arm comprised of an aluminum threaded hollow tube (probably 1 1/8" .220 wall) with threads on each end to allow for the rod end to be directly threaded into the control arm. These are in no way the same in design,construction,or material as our ACA002. The ACA002 lower control arms are CNC'D from 2 x 2 1/2" solid billet and are only available with poly bushings.

The biggest problem IMO with the aluminum tubular version is the rod end directly screws into an aluminum thread. Aluminum threads are notorious for quickly failing if the jamb nut is left even slightly loose. This material/design works fine on a 1500# sprint car but I wouldn't trust it on a 3300+# street car.

So even 3 years later I still do not suggest using a tubular aluminum control arms..

For those that do not know and are wondering these are the ACA002 billet aluminum lower control arms

tillery

iTrader: (4)

My helos (UH-60 and AH-64s) used an aluminum alloy for its Pitch control links that controled Main rotor blade(about150lbs@12?ft long) pitch at around 180 rpms. to lift a 16000 lb aircraft. But we dont use poly ends-lol-a double rodend is used.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

well they been hauling my 3800 pund car around just fine.

my arms are solid 1 1/4 hex bar. that i gun drilled. and then threaded both ends.

and i put the threads under a hyd press for 20,000.

guess what lee. they held up. i am only running 12.9 on my arms. but built a set for a local guy running mid 9s all the time. two seasons long.

i can sell these things for less then 200. and full adj and wieght loss.

but to each there own.

i know they rule. and about 5 other companies make them. so can't be that bad. hell ran across a thread on here that madman use to sell them. and mad man knows his ****. his stuff is on the fastest 6 speed.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

and aluminum rules.

mine are also 2024. not 6061.

lee since you aint welding on the arms, just machining them you should know that 2024 is better then 6061

6061 is the strongest welded able aluminum.

2024 is the strongest machining aluminum, but not weld able.

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

honestly, i would start with the least expensive and then just work ur way up and in the end (when u can afford it) get them all one by one... thats the way im gonna do it, but hey thats just me....


oh and BMR how much do ur aluminum LCA's weigh? are they adjustable?

Big Bird how much do ur aluminum LCA's weigh? are they adjustable?

allmotor

Overall an extreme sway bar from BMR is the best, but is not beneficial unless you already have the other mods in the poll such as T/A, PHR, control arms

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Torque Arm ,without a doubt. If you can swing it,get a body mounted one from BMR Spohn or something. Best mod I did!

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the recommendation

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

What's the magic with the T/A? I don't have one yet but got the other stuff. What is it about this piece that going to a different one gains you?

chevyz2801

iTrader: (20)

from what i see people are saying sfc what kind/brand are the best

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

The best style subframes in my opinion are the boxed weld-in version. The boxed versions are slightly heavier but are going to resist twisting forces much better than the tubular versions. There is no ground clearance lost with our boxed subframes.

Here is link to the web page where ours can be found

SFC001

If you have any other questions please feel free to ask

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

The biggest gain from going to a stock torque arm to one of our tubular versions is going to be consistency. On a stock hp car a torque arm will not increase your "best" time by much but it will help you achieve the time more often. The more consistent time will come from the sturdier tubular design of the torque arm(versus stamped steel) not flexing under the loads of launching a car.

We offer several different types of torque arms to meet a variety of different peoples needs. Choosing the right torque arm for your particular application can get kind of tricky so I advise most people to give me a call directly here at the office and go over the available options.

If you are curious as to what your options are here is a link to the web page that shows our different torque arm we offer. The torque arms are listed at the bottom of the page.

TORQUE ARMS

Please feel free to ask any questions you may have regarding our product line

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

3-pt connectors are triangulated, and attach to the center of the car as well as to the front and rear. Basically the are like 2-pts with more bracing added. A 3 point connector will always be better able to resist twising than a 2 point because the connector IMO.

You can get 3-pts. in either boxed or tubular, and both weld-in or bolt-in styles.

If you want the biggest, stiffest ones you can get period, then I'd recommend a set of these SLP weld-in's. They are fully boxed and as you can see in the link quite beefy. The downside is they hang a little lower than some folks prefer.

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7




Alternatively UMI makes 3-pts that are tubular, and fit a lot tighter to the body than the SLP's. And they are also powdercoated (though the coating needs to be ground down where they are welded in of course). The UMI's also pick up the rear LCA mounting point to help strengthen that boxed part of the unibody. And they weigh a few pounds less too.


http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7