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Advice on Sub Frame Connectors

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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 08:03 PM
  #21  
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I bought UMI 3PT bolt ins. Bolted and welded them. They def. made the car stronger and I'm going to do some drag racing so no worries about twisting for me. Easy installation.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #22  
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I have the UMI 2 point boxed weld-ins. Nice pieces and they tuck up very nicely. I got them because of the creases I developed in my quarters from launching. I had them fixed and they haven't come back. They're also handy for jacking up the car if you change tires a lot.

If I didn't go to the track, though, I would not have them. They ruined my car's good ride.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #23  
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Doing SFCs first = idiocy. I know, that's what I did. I listened to people who thought they knew. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice mod and has its place. BUT - your first mod should be shocks, period. My run of the mill HDs made more difference than the rest of the mods combined, Konis would have been more so.

Shocks first (or shocks + springs), anything else is dumb. Next should be swar bars, unless you have a dedicated drag car, then yes, do SFCs.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 09:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wicknewman
I also had to do some dremeling on my UMI 3 points to get them to fit. The holes on the passenger side tunnel brace area didn't line up. Seems like a fairly common problem with the 3 point designs. My car only has 10,000 miles, so no frame issues.
LOL!!Same here!!It was all good till i went to put the bolts in the center section on the passanger sideLOL!!Was a biggy thoughIf welding them in ?Pay the extra $20 for the bolt ins and weld after there bolted in SO MUCH EASYER!!!and its almost impossible to **** up!!I had the 2 points before in other F bodys Not much of a diffrence !I noticed big time after installing the UMI 3 point sub fram connectorsand YES no ground clearance issues with mine at all!Would rate from 1 to 10Ide say 9.99 LOL!!
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 04:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
The 3-Point set-up weighs 35 lbs and the 2-Point tubular bolt ons weight in at 24 lbs.

If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
Hello Ryan,

What's the difference, from a performance standpoint, between the 2-point and 3-point SFC's? How do I decide which would best suit my needs?

thanks.
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 11:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by barnat
LOL!!Same here!!It was all good till i went to put the bolts in the center section on the passanger sideLOL!!Was a biggy thoughIf welding them in ?Pay the extra $20 for the bolt ins and weld after there bolted in SO MUCH EASYER!!!and its almost impossible to **** up!!I had the 2 points before in other F bodys Not much of a diffrence !I noticed big time after installing the UMI 3 point sub fram connectorsand YES no ground clearance issues with mine at all!Would rate from 1 to 10Ide say 9.99 LOL!!
man i see barnat's posts everywhere...i love this guy!!! always so positive

i got the 2 pt tubular bolt-ins from UMI...don't even know they are there (tuck right in)...they are great
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 03:47 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by johnnybravo
Hello Ryan,

What's the difference, from a performance standpoint, between the 2-point and 3-point SFC's? How do I decide which would best suit my needs?

thanks.

Most likely I two points will be just fine. We recommend the 3-Point set-up when running our tunnel mounted torque arm or similar torque arm. The SFC's mount under the arm and reduce the floor board stress.

If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:14 AM
  #28  
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Ok. Thanks!
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #29  
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The UMI 2 point bolt on's for me.They are easy to install and they tuck up under the car
real nice.

_________________________
2000 T/A WS6 with a whole lot of mods
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Old May 6, 2008 | 04:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by transwiz
The UMI 2 point bolt on's for me.They are easy to install and they tuck up under the car
real nice.
Great to hear!
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