swayore

I have a 01 SS with a few mods and have been told to save my paint across my T-bars I really need a set of Sub-Frame Connectors. I like the SLP Bolt-Ons, but am concerned about maintenance on them and of course there is HOTCHKIS to consider.

What is the best recommended path based on your experiences?

Also looking at a new shock and spring setup to stop the dampening. After installing the SLP long tubes, I lost 1.5 inches of ground clearance and can barely switch lanes without scraping on the median lines. Any thoughts?

My SS: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pict...t/Camaro/10210

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Please keep us in mind for the subframe connectors as well. We offer both a 2-Point and 3-Point 100% bolt in style and both items do not reduce ground clearance. Please take a look at the links below and let me know if you have any questions.

www.umiperformance.com/2002
www.umiperformance.com/2004

Thank you!
Ryan

1_bad_ss

iTrader: (36)

i WAS running the slp subframe connectors and I will run them on every car from know on. I was i an accident with my car at 50 mph and a guy pulled in front of me and pretty much hit him head on. Needless to say my car got fucked up, but from the doors back the car is perfect and everything still lines up perfect. The doors open and close perfect and T tops still line up perfect. So I think without those it would've been twisted alot worse

AlwaysThinkin

iTrader: (1)

Any feedback on the DD style that you see on a few websites?

I assume the slp sfc listed above are the triangular style (more connecting points then the straight bar).

Also, when installing does anything have to get moved around with any of the styles out there? I ask because somewhere in a thread someone said "and you don't need to move the brake lines with this sfc".

Finally, what's a fair price for having them welded in?

Swayore, not trying to hijack your thread as I hope these questions fit the intent of your thread.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

I have SLPs's Bolt-in style SFCs on my car now. I've had them for almost a year. I got them the day I went to SLP for their Dyno Day last March.
My opinion: Waist of money
I installed them before I installed my Pro-kit and bilsteins and after I got my C6s. I did notice a slight difference with stock, blown out shocks. After I got my springs and shocks, and after putting a few more miles on the car with the SFCs, I feel like they arent doing anything anymore. Plus, they reduce ground clearance and they are HEAVY. I dont think a bolt-in SFC was the way to go in the first place. Theres still going to be some movement with a bolt-in style. I have thought about having them welded in some day, but i doubt that will ever actually happen.
If you're curious and want to try it out for yourself and ignore the opinions of other (as I did), i wouldnt buy the overpriced SLP SFCs. Go with UMIs. I've heard a lot of good feedback about them. Theyre most likely going to be lighter and they dont reduce ground clearance so either way, youll be better off than me.

RareBreed0295

iTrader: (35)

I like the Umi 2 pt sfcs. Got them on my car and love them. Get the weld on.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

I have HOTCHKISS SFC's...had them 7 years...if I were to do it again..I would get UMI/SPOHN 3-Point ones...WELDED, of course..[mine are welded also]

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

How much does a set of your 3pt. bolt ins weigh?? Thanks!

99gator

iTrader: (6)

I have had SLP boltins for 5 years. Bolt right up, no moving brake lines or whatever. Only had to drimel the hole a little since holes didn't lineup exactly. they are heavy but only reduce clearance a very little bit...but wouldn't for you since your LTs hang so low they are your ground clearance problem. They only clearance issue would be on driveup lifts...use frame lift instead.

EvilBLK02TA

iTrader: (28)

3 Point Bolt ons from UMI here. Easy install, just a few bolts, a wrench, and some beer!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

The 3-Point set-up weighs 35 lbs and the 2-Point tubular bolt ons weight in at 24 lbs.

If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

i have the UMI 2 point here! easy bolt on install, i jus dident notice much of a difference witch upsets me a little. i guess welding in makes a night and day difference according to everybody else!

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

Mine didnt either. I was worried my frame was twisted.

phantazn

iTrader: (7)

I've got the 2 point bolt ins from umi. They bolted in without having to adjust anything, definitely two thumbs up for quality. I didn't notice much difference in ride quality, however, when I jack the car up from one corner i notice it lifting the entire car up onto the wheel diagonally across from it.

Indiana Hawk

iTrader: (2)

UMI 2-point bolt-on's here. Quality pieces and easy install. I can definately tell a difference in the ride. The ride is stiffer and doesn't feel as "sloppy" when going over small bumps or expansion joints on the highway. My car has 40,000 miles and hopefully i've installed them soon enough to prevent the car from developing alot of squeaks and rattles. Two point bolt-on's are enough for most people. Go for the UMI, they tuck up real nice.

BlackBADaSS02

iTrader: (17)

I have the SLP Bolt on SFC's. I also had them welded in. It makes the car noticeably stiffer.
I will be installing UMI 3-points on my dads SS next month.

turbocreeper

iTrader: (3)

i just had the umi 2 point SFCs welded in. now occassionally i hear a knock underneath like the SFC is tapping my floorboard going over a bump or rough road. is this normal? they feel great otherwise and were easily welded in.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Its most likely the control arm bolts not being tight enough. Re-tighten the control arm bolts to 90 ft lbs, this is needed to compress the bushings since the SFC now mounts around it.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

turbocreeper

iTrader: (3)

ok ill try that. i know i didnt actually torque them, but did tighten as much as possible, i thought

wicknewman

iTrader: (13)

I also had to do some dremeling on my UMI 3 points to get them to fit. The holes on the passenger side tunnel brace area didn't line up. Seems like a fairly common problem with the 3 point designs. My car only has 10,000 miles, so no frame issues.