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Torque arms.

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:15 AM
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Default Torque arms.

Torque arms really confuse me. There is non-adjustable, adjustable, tunnel mounted, tranny mounted, different rearends, and different exhaust for all of them.

12 bolt moser
6 speed car
Stainless works LT headers/catted y-pipe
SLP dual/dual

I've read that the tunnel mounted is the way to go, as well as grab a driveshaft loop. But beyond that I don't know what to choose as far as which works for what rearend, and will fit my exhaust? Any help is much appreciated.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Hello,

Our tunnel mounted torque arm will fit all rear ends and will clear your exhaust. Below I pasted a link to this time, please take a look and let me know if you have any questions.

www.umiperformance.com/2203

If you are unsure whether this set-up is for you or not please PM me the details on how you drive the car and what your plans for it are. Along with a list of your current suspension mods including shocks, springs and what type of rear end.

You may also call our tech support at 814-857-5400

Thank you!
Ryan
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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I have that exact torque arm setup and love it. Just beware with the ls1 aluminum driveshaft the clearance for me was pretty bad and my driveshaft would hit when i would hit a dip in the road. I called and they said nothing can be done except go to a smaller driveshaft but I stuck some metal plates between the body and the crossmember to lower it.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:02 AM
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I have a custom steel driveshaft, but its the same diameter. Im not real worried about it, ever since I got the 12-bolt I have come to live with this damn squeak. I can't find anything, but I think I know what it is. When I put the new tires on soon I will try one last thing. Noises in these cars don't bother me anymore lol.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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I have a BMR adjustable full length torque arm on my car and it went on easy. I also purchased a torque arm relocation crossmember and had a couple questions and i gotta say that lee was very helpful. Bmr's customer service is excellent. Awesome parts
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ezzlez28
Torque arms really confuse me. There is non-adjustable, adjustable, tunnel mounted, tranny mounted, different rearends, and different exhaust for all of them.

12 bolt moser
6 speed car
Stainless works LT headers/catted y-pipe
SLP dual/dual

I've read that the tunnel mounted is the way to go, as well as grab a driveshaft loop. But beyond that I don't know what to choose as far as which works for what rearend, and will fit my exhaust? Any help is much appreciated.
If you plan to lower your car or do lots of modifications, then you want adjustable--so you can adjust your pinion angle as required for your set-up. If you plan on road racing, get the longer torque arm. If you plan to drag race, get the shorter version. They all should fit whatever rear end you buy as long as it's for an F-body of your model year. The exhaust is a bit more involved. They sell cross members with a dip in them for headers. The problem with these is they scrape a lot if you lower your car. I got the straight cross member and it still works for my aftermarket exhaust but it doesn't scrape. You may have to have a shop adjust your system to fit. Same with the safety loop. If it's not in the right place, just take it to a shop and they can cut and re-weld in the proper location. Hope that helps.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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^^^ that pretty much sums it all up. on that one CW00
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CW00BlackTA
If you plan to lower your car or do lots of modifications, then you want adjustable--so you can adjust your pinion angle as required for your set-up. If you plan on road racing, get the longer torque arm. If you plan to drag race, get the shorter version. They all should fit whatever rear end you buy as long as it's for an F-body of your model year. The exhaust is a bit more involved. They sell cross members with a dip in them for headers. The problem with these is they scrape a lot if you lower your car. I got the straight cross member and it still works for my aftermarket exhaust but it doesn't scrape. You may have to have a shop adjust your system to fit. Same with the safety loop. If it's not in the right place, just take it to a shop and they can cut and re-weld in the proper location. Hope that helps.

Thanks The problem right now is with the Vogtland Springs, which I believe to be completely horrible, the exhaust at its lowest it point is maybe 3 inches off the ground.. I am looking into several different routes at the moment, because it has no suspension travel and is just a horrible, harsh, worthless ride. Decent stance, but that's it. Im just hoping the the KYB's aren't getting to destroyed. I am probably going with the UMI tunnel mounted adjustable arm.
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