Ground Control Coil Over Conversion??
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...913043a25e62df
What are your goals for this mod? Are we trying to fix a handling problem? More information will help us to help you (and from your sig, it looks like a pretty wicked car that you're playing with).
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Left rear.

Right front.

Ride height 26-1/8" fronts 26-7/8" rears, and it's not easy raising/lowering the car, it takes a LOT of time, you would think that a full turn would equate to 1/2 of 2 full turns with regards to ride height, but that isn't the case. Having the car sit level with you in it will take a few hours, AND once you figured your desired ride height then you should get a front wheel alignment to get the most or ideal longevity with your front tires.
That being said, even though I want stiffer springs, I have heard friends just marvel at the ride quality and ridiculously fun characteristics of my car.
Obviously having Sam Strano's swaybars and all the other suspension/chassis modifications increased the handling of my vehicle, I really like the fact that I can raise/lower my ride height...It's just a pain in the *** to do the adjustment...
But then again, I'm lazy.
My car is a stunning canyon carver.



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The handling is quite impressive (I KILL ****-talking riceboyz in their "twisties" ALL the time!!!!!).
That said, IF I were to do it over again, I would probably just get the Strano spring setup & Konis. This did not exist when I bought the GCs, nor did ANY linear spring rate springs for our rides. At the time the GCs were the ONLY way to get a lowered. linear rate, spring on the car.
IF you are serious, and dead set on this, and want the MOST out of this setup, I would suggest getting it professionally corner weighted/adjusted as well.
The handling is quite impressive (I KILL ****-talking riceboyz in their "twisties" ALL the time!!!!!).
That said, IF I were to do it over again, I would probably just get the Strano spring setup & Konis. This did not exist when I bought the GCs, nor did ANY linear spring rate springs for our rides. At the time the GCs were the ONLY way to get a lowered. linear rate, spring on the car.
IF you are serious, and dead set on this, and want the MOST out of this setup, I would suggest getting it professionally corner weighted/adjusted as well.
But then again, I do have the option to change the ride height, so that's cool. AND, I could get different springs from Eibach(The springs used on the GC Coilover kit is Eibach Racing Springs = ERS) which is exactly what I'm going to do. Currently I have 500# fronts & 150# rears, I'm going to get 600# fronts & 175# rears.
Even though ground control offer's a decent system, I have had better experience with the Global West front end coil-over sleeves. Even though it's usually an debate of preference with concerns of Jamb-nut (global West) locking or a grub-screw on perch lock (whatever the Ground-Control system is referred to), my preference leans towards to Jamb-nut style.
My largest disagreement with the Ground-Control is that fact that the front upper spring perch may require Koni 8241 or 8242 series (yellow SA and DA respectively) to have some modification performed which may cause warranty issues concerning the Koni's. From my experience, the Global West fronts did not. It is this fact which forms my opinion that if I must trouble myself with this, I'd rather save the money to purchase some sort of "generic coil-over sleeve and then perform the modification (if I'm not too concerned with Koni warrantly issues) or I'd opt for the Global west kit. It's certainly true that many around the AX and RR world have had great performance with the Ground-Control kit, however I notice they experienced the same issues I have had as well, which is why I typed this out.
If I may state anything as well concerning Ground-Control customer service, basically I have had none. Anytime I had trouble with this system, I was left to communities outside of Ground-Control to resolve them. This is not even concerning the issue of indefinite imformation with concerns to shipping, which many have stated, but as long as the sponsor has the item in stock, then it should not be of concern.
The only other option I could think of would to implement some sort of motorsport shocks, however I'll save my findings on this for later.
if you just want to lower the car, cut the springs but do them right. notice I said cut, not torch. the whole "cutting your springs" thing has a bad rap from people doing a fifth-grade level hack job on it. youll get better handling from having less body roll due to the drop in your center of gravity. throw a coat of paint on em if you feel guilty about not buying new springs for the job. springs never really wear out too quickly anyhow. ah heck. buy the stranos.
Last edited by nine-eight; Apr 23, 2008 at 11:45 AM.
(at least this is what I've always been told).I forgot to mention this as another possible reason to run Sam's springs (they ARE linear rate BTW) in my original post on here.
YES, IF you plan on jumping all around the place with spring rates the GC/Global West/AFCO fabricated kits are the only way to go.
But unless you plan to run MANY different tracks, or do the national autocross tours, like Sam does (it also depends on the class rules of your organization/run group, etc.) this should NOT be necessary.
Again, remember that EVERY time you change spring rates, ride height, etc. you will need a re-alignment and a new corner weighting adjustment to be optimal (as others have suggested).
(at least this is what I've always been told).I forgot to mention this as another possible reason to run Sam's springs (they ARE linear rate BTW) in my original post on here.
YES, IF you plan on jumping all around the place with spring rates the GC/Global West/AFCO fabricated kits are the only way to go.
But unless you plan to run MANY different tracks, or do the national autocross tours, like Sam does (it also depends on the class rules of your organization/run group, etc.) this should NOT be necessary.
Again, remember that EVERY time you change spring rates, ride height, etc. you will need a re-alignment and a new corner weighting adjustment to be optimal (as others have suggested).
AFA Koni's warranty policy, yes, it's definite that modifications to use the GC in it's stock for will void the warranty. Now when there was a fault unrelated to my modification of the shock, they did made the exception for me, but again exceptions were informal and shouldn't considered as any type of repeated occurance. For anybody reading, please do not reference Koni about my case, because it was done under an informal "we'll do it this time, but for future reference, this is our policy" circumstance.


