Need help with wheel hop
#1
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Need help with wheel hop
I had a lot of problems spinning at the track but I recently switched to koni shocks and strano springs. That actually got rid of alot of the spinning and cut .25 sec off my 1/8th but now I have a ton of wheel hop. My first run i actually broke the corner of my decklid it was so bad. Anyway, what should be my next mod to fix this issue? Thanks
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Also, softening the shocks did seem to alleviate some of the wheelhop. I started at 3 turns from soft and got my best time with the least wheelhop at 1.5 turns from full soft.
#3
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It's time to explore things like LCA's, a TA and possibly LCA brackets. Happy to talk over the options and pro's vs. con's of different parts.
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#5
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Exactly.... it drives me nuts when folks proclaim "this will fix your wheelhop". Doesn't work that way as it can come from any number of things and even a combination of things.
Yes, LCA's kill hop in some cars. Brackets in others. Sometimes the TA's can too, if that's the weak link.
I usually prefer to start with a TA.. it's not the cheapest, but also tends to cause the least hassles with noise and handling. But that doesn't mean we can't start with less costly LCA's, but the cheaper ones bind the axle in roll. And I tend to try and avoid brackets for cars that get driven fast in the handling sense until the end. And even then recommend only certain positions for corner carving, but you can move them for drag racing if need be.
Wheelhop is a gain and loss of traction. Spinning is just no traction, and bogging is too much. Again, a lot of factors play in and we don't always need much to cure the problem.
Yes, LCA's kill hop in some cars. Brackets in others. Sometimes the TA's can too, if that's the weak link.
I usually prefer to start with a TA.. it's not the cheapest, but also tends to cause the least hassles with noise and handling. But that doesn't mean we can't start with less costly LCA's, but the cheaper ones bind the axle in roll. And I tend to try and avoid brackets for cars that get driven fast in the handling sense until the end. And even then recommend only certain positions for corner carving, but you can move them for drag racing if need be.
Wheelhop is a gain and loss of traction. Spinning is just no traction, and bogging is too much. Again, a lot of factors play in and we don't always need much to cure the problem.
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The angle that the LCA's end up at when you lower the car is worse for traction purposes. LCA relo brackets can fix that, but you lose turning stability in handling applications. Not sure if you are doing anything with handling or if you are just a drag strip car?
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#9
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I take it to the strip occasionally but its mostly just a street car. I haven't done any road racing but i hope to eventually so i guess LCA relocation brackets prolly arent that great for handling?
#11
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Having LCA brackets on doesn't make the car automatically handle badly. You can have them on and run the arms @ a stock position, or move them down for drag use, etc. Most folks don't like to make changes like that.
I think the TA is the least obtrusive to handling/ride, followed by the LCA's, then the brackets if needed. Again, I have no brackets and my LCA's are stock (different bushings though) and have no wheelhop issues thanks to my TA. Not every car will react the same, but most act very much the same.
I think the TA is the least obtrusive to handling/ride, followed by the LCA's, then the brackets if needed. Again, I have no brackets and my LCA's are stock (different bushings though) and have no wheelhop issues thanks to my TA. Not every car will react the same, but most act very much the same.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!