SJM ABS/LL installed.... brakes still leaking!!
07-11-2008, 08:44 AM
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SJM ABS/LL installed.... brakes still leaking!! I removed the ABS and installed the SJM ABS/LL kit on my LT1. I double-flared the lines and assembled the kit as is. I did NOT use any plumbers tape. The brakes are still leaking at the brass fittings. They are as tight as they can possibly go... What should I do? Re-flare the lines? Wrap the fittings in tape? I really need some help!! Thanks
07-11-2008, 01:38 PM
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it's leaking where exactly? I'm not a brake expert so it's hard to get a visual. I'll tell u though that when I installed mine I put the LL selenoid ( however u spell it) upside down and it kept leaking through the connections. turned it right side up and tightened down, no leaks.
07-13-2008, 05:42 PM
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i am having this exact problem as well! and im pissed.
i've reflared the lines 3 times and all three times they are perfect. also i've replaced the brass elbows that it seats against with no luck. and from talking to one of the local speed shops about it they said the problem is that the factory lines are metric and sjm is using standard 3/16 fittings.
so i'll more than likely end up replacing the whole brake line and convert it to a 3 channel.
i just think its bullshit you pay $200 for a kit that uses mixmatched fittings and lines, with 2 prebent lines and 2 incomplete prebent lines. it was seriously a total waste of my money, especially since i have to redo everything.
i've reflared the lines 3 times and all three times they are perfect. also i've replaced the brass elbows that it seats against with no luck. and from talking to one of the local speed shops about it they said the problem is that the factory lines are metric and sjm is using standard 3/16 fittings.
so i'll more than likely end up replacing the whole brake line and convert it to a 3 channel.
i just think its bullshit you pay $200 for a kit that uses mixmatched fittings and lines, with 2 prebent lines and 2 incomplete prebent lines. it was seriously a total waste of my money, especially since i have to redo everything.
07-13-2008, 11:02 PM
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The lines and fittings are correctly sized for the application. If the lines are leaking where they are flared the problem lies in either the flare made or it's opposing mated brass fitting being damaged from misalignment during assembly. If the brass internal flare is severely damaged from misalignment, a compression seal will be difficult to obtain.
In so much, if the OEM lines varied, the line would have been flared to the correct opposing brass internal mate. As someone previously mentioned, the compression mated surface between the steel line and brass fitting creates a seal preventing leakage, not the threads. Line variance within reason does not affect the compression mated surfaces.
It's important to state, due to the nature of a compression fitted component it does take some force to create the seal. The brass fittings are designed to deform to meet slight inconsistencies in the double flared steel line formed. Sometimes a dab of light oil on the threads of the tube nut will reduce friction increasing torque which may seat the mating surfaces to aide in sealing. A line wrench vs. standard open wrench is also recommended.
If a customer has a comment, question or concern, board discussions can be helpful to the general community and are welcomed. However it's advised for a prompt possible resolution versus possible frustration, it is best to contact us directly as we fully support our products. Since I'm not on the boards as often as I'd like to be, I don't always have the time to review every post regarding our products. Phone or email responses are returned within 1 business day.
In so much, if the OEM lines varied, the line would have been flared to the correct opposing brass internal mate. As someone previously mentioned, the compression mated surface between the steel line and brass fitting creates a seal preventing leakage, not the threads. Line variance within reason does not affect the compression mated surfaces.
It's important to state, due to the nature of a compression fitted component it does take some force to create the seal. The brass fittings are designed to deform to meet slight inconsistencies in the double flared steel line formed. Sometimes a dab of light oil on the threads of the tube nut will reduce friction increasing torque which may seat the mating surfaces to aide in sealing. A line wrench vs. standard open wrench is also recommended.
If a customer has a comment, question or concern, board discussions can be helpful to the general community and are welcomed. However it's advised for a prompt possible resolution versus possible frustration, it is best to contact us directly as we fully support our products. Since I'm not on the boards as often as I'd like to be, I don't always have the time to review every post regarding our products. Phone or email responses are returned within 1 business day.
07-13-2008, 11:36 PM
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no i know its not being misaligned. i've pulled it off and checked the impression and its dead on. but still i have replaced the elbow from the block with a brand new one just to help it out but it still leaks. also my flares look fine, they are centered, not split or anything so i can't figure it out.
im just going to scrap the whole keeping it a 4 channel and am going to run a new line to the rear as a 3 channel style setup. and keep the 6mm line so and iso flare the ends so it will bolt up in the rear and use an adapter for the front to take it from iso to a flare.
and SJM: sorry to have bashed your product earlier, im just frustrated that its not sealing up. its a great kit for the m/c to the prop. valve and LL, just from there its just not the greatest, and for $200s i expected to have it meet up to the factory lines a little bit better. But hey what can you do, its part of the whole fabricating process
im just going to scrap the whole keeping it a 4 channel and am going to run a new line to the rear as a 3 channel style setup. and keep the 6mm line so and iso flare the ends so it will bolt up in the rear and use an adapter for the front to take it from iso to a flare.
and SJM: sorry to have bashed your product earlier, im just frustrated that its not sealing up. its a great kit for the m/c to the prop. valve and LL, just from there its just not the greatest, and for $200s i expected to have it meet up to the factory lines a little bit better. But hey what can you do, its part of the whole fabricating process
