If your educated in the way of the torque arm come in!
#21
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The majority of the stuff we safety wire is like that. All you have to do is drill a hole or find a bolt thats already got one and wire it just like the pictures in the link i put up a few posts ago. Its really easy, just need to be patiant. Remember that the wire always goes clockwise off the bolt or nut, so it will have to go agaist the wire to back off.
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How can you safety wire something that doesnt use a nut? The housing itself is threaded and you cant fit a nut on the other side.
Sounds like you royally f*cked those threads on the housing, best bet might be to drill for a stock style mount and hope you dont screw it up even more.
94LT1, why do you talk so much **** when you cant even tighten down your TA properly?
Sounds like you royally f*cked those threads on the housing, best bet might be to drill for a stock style mount and hope you dont screw it up even more.
94LT1, why do you talk so much **** when you cant even tighten down your TA properly?
I dont know where to get grade 10 around here? The hardware store only carrys 8 and autozone i think is only 8 as well.
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The majority of the stuff we safety wire is like that. All you have to do is drill a hole or find a bolt thats already got one and wire it just like the pictures in the link i put up a few posts ago. Its really easy, just need to be patiant. Remember that the wire always goes clockwise off the bolt or nut, so it will have to go agaist the wire to back off.
With all this ****, there can't be anyway it pulls back out. I do know that one of the holes uses a massive bolt, alot bigger than the others so aparently its been a problem before as well.
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Well here are the pics i had to take new ones with the camara, i didnt know how to get them off her phone.
The bottom bolt ripped out again, and i took the other out to get a match in size at the bolt place. Noone had a 10 grade, but i did get a couple 12 grade with an allen head. I also have the red lock tite to put on. This **** better work or i will sell it and buy a mustang....j/k
The bottom bolt ripped out again, and i took the other out to get a match in size at the bolt place. Noone had a 10 grade, but i did get a couple 12 grade with an allen head. I also have the red lock tite to put on. This **** better work or i will sell it and buy a mustang....j/k
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Anyone know what kind it is? I am considering buying a sphoon or BMR if this doesnt work. And just drilling the first two holes straight through and using one long bolt like the stock set up. The back two bolts seem to hold just fine.
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I would recommend this. It would solve the problem. There is alot more metal to pull through and work against in a through bolt design
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Thats what i just finished doing, grade 12 bolts/ grade 8 Lock washers, and red locktite.
If it doesnt hold, and i drill straight through, the front two bolts wont be a problem, but can the same be done to the rear two bolt holes?
If it doesnt hold, and i drill straight through, the front two bolts wont be a problem, but can the same be done to the rear two bolt holes?
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Does the arm have any forward range left in that slide over end link? Or is it all the way forward at rest and will bottom against the front mount it the rear moves forward any more? I think your floor bracket needs to be forward an inch or so to leave room for forward travel but it's hard to tell where the arm ends.
Vernon
Vernon
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Seems to be holding well, but the rear end seems to have so much movement still. When I go over bumbs, railroad tracks, speed bumps,... it sounds like there is all kinds of loose **** banging around back/down there.
But on a good note the bolts are still there.
But on a good note the bolts are still there.
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So much for just adjusting it,,, since its non adjustable. Drilling al the way through like the stock set up seems like it would work best. As long as it clears the insides of your rear end. Also did you check to make sure the rear of the TA is not hitting the tunnel. Kinda looks like it might be since the paint on the TA is worn off. Also the banging in front mght be the ta sliding in all the way and stopping. Also Granatelli makes a similar set up.
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UPDATE : Bolts ripped out...Locktited, Lockwashered, Grade 12. I guess im going to do some researching on drilling all the way through to make sure i dont F*ck the rear end up. The First two holes look like they will be fine, the last two though look like they might hit something if i drill though, but the last to arent giving me any problems.
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So much for just adjusting it,,, since its non adjustable. Drilling al the way through like the stock set up seems like it would work best. As long as it clears the insides of your rear end. Also did you check to make sure the rear of the TA is not hitting the tunnel. Kinda looks like it might be since the paint on the TA is worn off. Also the banging in front mght be the ta sliding in all the way and stopping. Also Granatelli makes a similar set up.
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Uhh not realy, its still on the car. I would say probably not though. The reason i didnt use the safty wire, is because i didnt have a problem with the bolts Turning and backing out, they just simply RIP out. So i cant drill through, can i retap the threads maybe? What the hell am i to do buy a new rear end?
Last edited by 94lt1m6; 09-12-2008 at 09:08 AM.