If your educated in the way of the torque arm come in!
08-17-2008, 06:55 AM
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If your educated in the way of the torque arm come in! All i have had is one torque arm issue after another. I cant keep the bolts in the rear end, and bought a floor pan mounted torque arm to do away with the tranny mount torque that kept braking. Well yesterday I got some huge washers, strong bolts/nuts and bolted the **** out of the mount that mounts the the floor pan because the old one ripped the bolts through the floor pan. If this rips out, the whole underside of the car is going with it, so thats not my worry anymore. I also got a good grab on the bolts into the rear end, but only have two of four bolts in
The reason being that the first two just simply wont stay in, or even torque down tight for that matter.
Can i drill the rear end housing the allow for a long bolt to go through both the first top and bottom hole similar to the factory set up?
Also when i hit my brakes i get ALOT of torque arm movement. It feels like it is bouncing really fast. From acceleration everything feels fine, but when braking it doesnt. Can i weld some kind of mount onto it to keep it from having very much play? Like a peice of pipe with rubber inside of it, and stick the end of the torque arm through it and weld it to the mount?
I also get banging when shifting from it hitting the floor.
The way my torque arm is set up, is if has a braket that bolts to the floor pan in an upside down U shape with the drive shaft going through a loop. It has a pivot spot that will pivot 180* and the torque arm slides over a ~6 inch pipe from that pivot.
Any help is apriciated.
BTW I dont know if the rear ends are supposed to, but mine gets in a bind all the time due to these problems, and it gets twisted forward and i have to raise is up with a jack to get it to sort of 'fall' back into spot.
The reason being that the first two just simply wont stay in, or even torque down tight for that matter. Can i drill the rear end housing the allow for a long bolt to go through both the first top and bottom hole similar to the factory set up?
Also when i hit my brakes i get ALOT of torque arm movement. It feels like it is bouncing really fast. From acceleration everything feels fine, but when braking it doesnt. Can i weld some kind of mount onto it to keep it from having very much play? Like a peice of pipe with rubber inside of it, and stick the end of the torque arm through it and weld it to the mount?
I also get banging when shifting from it hitting the floor.
The way my torque arm is set up, is if has a braket that bolts to the floor pan in an upside down U shape with the drive shaft going through a loop. It has a pivot spot that will pivot 180* and the torque arm slides over a ~6 inch pipe from that pivot.
Any help is apriciated.
BTW I dont know if the rear ends are supposed to, but mine gets in a bind all the time due to these problems, and it gets twisted forward and i have to raise is up with a jack to get it to sort of 'fall' back into spot.
08-17-2008, 08:44 AM
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What brand Tq arm you have? BMR dont have one that bolts to he floor pan. Theirs weld into the sides or into subframes connectors. Unless you have a relocation set-up. If that is the case, make sure the bushing is on the Tq arm and in the mount bracket. And also that your transmision is bolted down and crossmember installed correctly. Can you post a pic of the set up? Now as for the Moser rears four bolts. If you put the bolt up to the bracket mount notice the diff in size. I made bushings for mine to make up the diff and stop the rear Tq arm bracket from moving and bolts coming loose. Ive Had two long and a short Tq arms. My current is a long with a Yank crossmember relocation mount.
08-17-2008, 01:39 PM
#3
Sounds like your pinion angle is way off. How did you measure it? I was having tons of problems at first using the angle finder from sears. I found another one that works much better at Home Depot. It works just like the one in the BMR vid instead of the needle hanging down it points up. (also remember if your using an angle finder from sears it neeeds to be adjusted reverse of the BMR vid since the needle hangs down instead of up.
Now I got it right and My car is very smooth and has no binding anymore, floorboards sound 100x better also.
Also all the bolts need to be tourqed while the suspension is loaded including the LCAs or the bushings will bind.
Now I got it right and My car is very smooth and has no binding anymore, floorboards sound 100x better also.
Also all the bolts need to be tourqed while the suspension is loaded including the LCAs or the bushings will bind.
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08-18-2008, 05:45 AM
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I guess i forgot to change my sig when i figured this out, but i dono what brand it is, and it is non adjustable. I will lift it up and take a pic today to show you guys. It is a really short torque arm id say its at least a foot shorter than stock.
So far i have had good luck with the bolts in the rear, and thats cuz i did use lock washers lol. But i'll pull them out today and use the locktite+ washers and see how it comes.
So far i have had good luck with the bolts in the rear, and thats cuz i did use lock washers lol. But i'll pull them out today and use the locktite+ washers and see how it comes.
Last edited by 94lt1m6; 08-18-2008 at 05:46 AM. Reason: Spelling errors, its early
08-26-2008, 05:05 PM
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I took pics today, on my g/f's phone and then she left with her phone, so i cant post them. I put a couple lock washers on the one bottom bolt that is gone, and everything felt fine after that, then it fell out and it went back to the same old... so im guessing thats my problem.
08-27-2008, 06:32 PM
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You use wire to lock the nuts in place so they cant back off. Its used extensively on aircraft or on parts that are subject to alot of vibration. Here is a decient article with a few demonstrations.
http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilots...safetywire.htm
Its really easy to do and you dont even need the pliers. Just twist the wire with your hands.
http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilots...safetywire.htm
Its really easy to do and you dont even need the pliers. Just twist the wire with your hands.
08-28-2008, 05:39 PM
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I see that looks like a great idea, but...my bolts are 'ripping' out not backing out. The are grade 8 i belive, and the treads are actually torn.
08-28-2008, 08:32 PM
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Go with grade 10 bolts, lock tite, and safety wire. Trust me the safety wire works, im a aircraft mechanic and 90 percent of aircraft parts are safety wired on.
08-28-2008, 09:18 PM
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Any pics yet? Take some of the front mounting while the rear has weight on it. There's probably a reason why you're stripping bolts and having all the movement.
Vernon
Vernon
08-29-2008, 02:40 PM
#20
How can you safety wire something that doesnt use a nut? The housing itself is threaded and you cant fit a nut on the other side.
Sounds like you royally f*cked those threads on the housing, best bet might be to drill for a stock style mount and hope you dont screw it up even more.
94LT1, why do you talk so much **** when you cant even tighten down your TA properly?
Sounds like you royally f*cked those threads on the housing, best bet might be to drill for a stock style mount and hope you dont screw it up even more.
94LT1, why do you talk so much **** when you cant even tighten down your TA properly?