Bucksbadz

The majority of the stuff we safety wire is like that. All you have to do is drill a hole or find a bolt thats already got one and wire it just like the pictures in the link i put up a few posts ago. Its really easy, just need to be patiant. Remember that the wire always goes clockwise off the bolt or nut, so it will have to go agaist the wire to back off.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Where the hell did you come from The torque arm was messed at the time of purchase, not from me. This car was totally ****** rigged together I do have pics on my gf's phone she is on her way over so i will throw them up when she gets here. I have the red locktite, lock nuts, and do have wire if i safty wire it. The safty wire sounds like a really good idea, just not for the problem i am having. but i will throw it on there for "safty." Tomoro it will go under surgery for whatever i do. I was thinking about droping the rear, and tapping the threads just a tad bigger.

I dont know where to get grade 10 around here? The hardware store only carrys 8 and autozone i think is only 8 as well.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

I'll do it.

With all this ****, there can't be anyway it pulls back out. I do know that one of the holes uses a massive bolt, alot bigger than the others so aparently its been a problem before as well.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Well here are the pics i had to take new ones with the camara, i didnt know how to get them off her phone.

The bottom bolt ripped out again, and i took the other out to get a match in size at the bolt place. Noone had a 10 grade, but i did get a couple 12 grade with an allen head. I also have the red lock tite to put on. This **** better work or i will sell it and buy a mustang....j/k

Bucksbadz

Thats treason and ill hang you myself.
No guarantees since the threads were messed up previously. I think alot of it has to do with the torque arm its self.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know what kind it is? I am considering buying a sphoon or BMR if this doesnt work. And just drilling the first two holes straight through and using one long bolt like the stock set up. The back two bolts seem to hold just fine.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

If you wind up needing one or have any questions please give us a call. We are in the office mon-fri till 6pm est.

Bucksbadz

I would recommend this. It would solve the problem. There is alot more metal to pull through and work against in a through bolt design

pddye

iTrader: (14)

I always had 12 bolt, bolt problems. What I did was use longer grade 8 bolts, grade 8 lock washers (not regular grade 2 lock washers) and red loctite. Works great.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Thats what i just finished doing, grade 12 bolts/ grade 8 Lock washers, and red locktite.

If it doesnt hold, and i drill straight through, the front two bolts wont be a problem, but can the same be done to the rear two bolt holes?

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

Does the arm have any forward range left in that slide over end link? Or is it all the way forward at rest and will bottom against the front mount it the rear moves forward any more? I think your floor bracket needs to be forward an inch or so to leave room for forward travel but it's hard to tell where the arm ends.

Vernon

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

At rest it has about 4-5 inches to move forward, and has about 3-4 inches inside the sliding end. The part that slides in is all together about 8 inches.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Seems to be holding well, but the rear end seems to have so much movement still. When I go over bumbs, railroad tracks, speed bumps,... it sounds like there is all kinds of loose **** banging around back/down there.

But on a good note the bolts are still there.

Black 99 Bird

iTrader: (31)

What size are the bolts used in the Moser 12 bolt torque arm mount?

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

So much for just adjusting it,,, since its non adjustable. Drilling al the way through like the stock set up seems like it would work best. As long as it clears the insides of your rear end. Also did you check to make sure the rear of the TA is not hitting the tunnel. Kinda looks like it might be since the paint on the TA is worn off. Also the banging in front mght be the ta sliding in all the way and stopping. Also Granatelli makes a similar set up.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

UPDATE : Bolts ripped out...Locktited, Lockwashered, Grade 12. I guess im going to do some researching on drilling all the way through to make sure i dont F*ck the rear end up. The First two holes look like they will be fine, the last two though look like they might hit something if i drill though, but the last to arent giving me any problems.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Its not hitting, most of that is grease on the top, but the paint that is missing, where it looks banged to hell is where i had to bang it back with a hammer when the drive shaft and it had it out. Needless to say the drive shaft lost, but the torque arm did get some battle scars.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

So...let me get this straight. You'll drill through a cast iron housing, yet you won't drill through 4 bolt heads to be able to use safety wire?

And you already know you can't drill through the Moser housing...so where does that leave you?

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Drilling the housing is not an option. Can you look down in the housing to see if the threads are in good condition?

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

Uhh not realy, its still on the car. I would say probably not though. The reason i didnt use the safty wire, is because i didnt have a problem with the bolts Turning and backing out, they just simply RIP out. So i cant drill through, can i retap the threads maybe? What the hell am i to do buy a new rear end?