C-HOG may need a waterpump replacement.
A few years later, I replaced the oil pump in my garage with ramps, hand tools, and a little assistance from another board member (Inspector12 came over to help me get the crank pulley back on). In the process of replacing the oil pump, I had to remove the water pump. As I took it off and set it aside, it occurred to me that I had just done $350 worth of labor in about 30 minutes.
I say do it yourself. It's not hard, just messy (coolant everywhere).
Some tips:
- Whether you get a new one or a reman, get new gaskets. They're cheap insurance.
- There will be coolant in the water pump/block when you remove it, even after you drain the radiator. It's not a big deal, but it's messy.
Here's a good write-up on getting the old one off (you can skip all the stuff about wiring up a new pump, unless you decide to get an electric pump...)
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26
-Mike
Went to the track last Wednesday night and got in 1 pass and was ready for #2 when they signaled kill it and get it off the track

Water pump just GUSHED like Ed Norton getting his nose smashed in (reference to Fight Club).
Anyway, used my rewards points with AutoZone and got a NEW with warranty pump for $73.99+tax this afternoon. Anyone who knows me knows I can't leave well enough alone, so I had the pump out of the box and was already sanding on the pulley for it. Prepped it for painting whats becoming my favorite car color the Smoke Metallic Grey I used on my wheels, intake, airlid diffy cover, trans & bell housing. Anyway, got that prepped, painted and cleared several layers and went to installing. All the pics are available at the link: http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../Water%20Pump/
but here are the highlights. IF the picture is huge, I'm resizing.



Some of the shots show how nasty the hoses I had for my TB bypass WERE. replaced the TB bypass with a single hose now and looks a bit better than a 6" copper pipe running around in there. Not to bad a deal for 2 hours work (I took my time) Could have been done in 45 minutes, but was being careful to not scratch the pulley. . . .
The stuff I do when I'm bored.
15mm ratchet to loosen the tension from the belt and remove it.
Drain the coolant/water
Disconnect the hoses from the pump.
Remove the airbox
Use the 10mm to remove the 6 bolts holding the pump. You might need to use a 10mm wrench to get to the bottom drivers side bolt if the power steering pump pulley is blocking it.
Once off, clean the area w/the brake cleaner & rags.
You can trust the gaskets that come with the pump but if you don't, a thin layer of orange sealant or any high-temp sealant should be fine also.
Reverse the process. If I remember, torque is about 18ft/lbs for the bolts.
If it takes you more than 2 hours, give up tools.
Take 2, thanks for the offer but you are in BFE compared to where I am at (Pearland).
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if i were you i'd go ahead and get a new thermostat also. i bought the pump from O'Reilley's and it cost $184. it comes with new metal gaskets too, and i believe an o-ring of some sort for the thermostat.
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