Need Help To Pass Inspection in Texas
#1
Need Help To Pass Inspection in Texas
I went to get my inspection yesterday and it came back as evap and O2 htr not ready. I had the rear O2 deleted so there is nothing I can do there. I was wondering what could the evap be and how can it be fixed. Any info what be helpful.
#3
With the new inspection law you can only have 1 not ready circuit for a car 2001 and newer. You can read about it here:
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm
The evap is the charcoal canister that scrubs gas fumes from the tank. These fumes are burned through the engine. If a circuit is not ready that means the car has not done a test on that system. It has not failed, it just hasn't been tested. Did your tuner delete that as well? Also if you have just unhooked the battery you may have not had enough time to test the evap.
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm
The evap is the charcoal canister that scrubs gas fumes from the tank. These fumes are burned through the engine. If a circuit is not ready that means the car has not done a test on that system. It has not failed, it just hasn't been tested. Did your tuner delete that as well? Also if you have just unhooked the battery you may have not had enough time to test the evap.
#4
With the new inspection law you can only have 1 not ready circuit for a car 2001 and newer. You can read about it here:
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm
The evap is the charcoal canister that scrubs gas fumes from the tank. These fumes are burned through the engine. If a circuit is not ready that means the car has not done a test on that system. It has not failed, it just hasn't been tested. Did your tuner delete that as well? Also if you have just unhooked the battery you may have not had enough time to test the evap.
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm
The evap is the charcoal canister that scrubs gas fumes from the tank. These fumes are burned through the engine. If a circuit is not ready that means the car has not done a test on that system. It has not failed, it just hasn't been tested. Did your tuner delete that as well? Also if you have just unhooked the battery you may have not had enough time to test the evap.
#7
Take your car to an auto parts store and have them scan for codes. They will do it for free. Then you will have an idea where to start. It could be as simple as a gas cap. It also could just be the readiness test needs to run like has already been mentioned.
Fix your car right and put anyone who tells you not to on your ignore list. Having no evap will not make your car any faster.
Fix your car right and put anyone who tells you not to on your ignore list. Having no evap will not make your car any faster.
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#10
whoever deleted your rear o2s might not have done it correctly... mine are deleted and show up complete...as far as the evap, i thought i had a problem with mine cause it took FOREVER to set to complete... i just kept driving it and driving it and one day after getting on it pretty hard i checked it when i got home and it showed complete... it just takes a really long time in some cases
#11
^ Agreed. The tune is not set to read "good", just "not ready". Take it back to whoever tuned it and get that fixed or have someone else fix it. I had the same problem and another tuner set it right. Zero not ready, all OK now.
#12
how long ago was it tuned??? or recently up dated???
I know you have to drive a certain amount of time to have it reset, and also there has to be a certain amount of cold starts, and hot starts for the system to go ready..
I know you have to drive a certain amount of time to have it reset, and also there has to be a certain amount of cold starts, and hot starts for the system to go ready..
#13
o2 sensor heater has nothing to do with your rear 02s being tuned out. When a sensor is tuned out, the computer is programmed to believe that the the sensor is running 100% correct, and will always show up as ready. My car throws the same code, Bank 1 sensor 1(drivers side front) o2 heater circuit. If I clear the codes, everything will come up as ready, but after a few hundred miles that code will come back. I get people in for inspections all the time that want me to pass it for cash, but dps reads the VIN when you plug the computer in, so if I want to risk going to jail I could pass people, but I dont, I like my freedom. As for the evap, the most common problem I see with the evap code is people leaving there gas cap loose, that will throw the code. Good luck with it
#14
Its was tuned about a year ago.
When I changed the trans I had the battery unhooked but I've put over 500 miles on the car since then. When I got the inspection done the car had not been driven more than 10 miles in the past two weeks.
For everyone that is saying pay them to past it please .
When I changed the trans I had the battery unhooked but I've put over 500 miles on the car since then. When I got the inspection done the car had not been driven more than 10 miles in the past two weeks.
For everyone that is saying pay them to past it please .
#15
yeah don't risk getting yourself and possibly someone else in trouble... even when you do get it fixed it will still technically be illegal right lol... i don't think it's a problem with your front o2's because if the heaters were bad the ses light would be on... and there is more than one way to delete a code, one way the ses light will be off and show complete on a readiness test and the other way the ses light will be off but will show not complete on a readiness test so that could still be your problem... gas cap may also be an issue but if there was a problem in the evap system wouldn't a code be set and ses light on??
#16
yeah don't risk getting yourself and possibly someone else in trouble... even when you do get it fixed it will still technically be illegal right lol... i don't think it's a problem with your front o2's because if the heaters were bad the ses light would be on... and there is more than one way to delete a code, one way the ses light will be off and show complete on a readiness test and the other way the ses light will be off but will show not complete on a readiness test so that could still be your problem... gas cap may also be an issue but if there was a problem in the evap system wouldn't a code be set and ses light on??
Try getting your codes cleared, even though you may not be throwing any, this will reset all of your sensors to not ready, then drive it, drive it easy, drive it hard, drive it all different ways, then have it checked. Autozone or Oreillys can do all the scanning and clearing free of charge.
#18
If the memory has been reset ie: cleared codes, dead battery, or replaced battery. That will reset the monitors the evap is that hardest one to get to go to the "ready" status. It just takes a lot of driving. That is probably the cause for the "not ready" status is b/c it just has not been driven enough.
#19
I got it checked and its not throwing any codes. I guess I will just drive around alot this weekend and see if it can pass monday. Does anyone know how many times I can do the test before I get charged again.
#20
you get one free retest 15 days after the initial test, after that you have to pay again... ask the shop to do a readiness test to make sure the monitors are set before they actually do the reinspection... most places should have enough sincerity to atleast do that for you