Big cam cars. What oil to use?
09-25-2010, 01:10 PM
#21
The reason it is quieter with the Penz. 10w30 is because it is a thicker oil the the Mobile1 5w30. The thickness of the oil also explains the higher oil pressure!! But after research I am going to try some of the Penzoil Platinum and see for myself!! What filter are you running??
A 5w 30 oil, and a 10w30 oil are the same thickness at operating temperature...
I will use pretty much any filter besides FRAM. If you want to spend a bit more money, the K&N, and M1 filters are supposed to be good, but are not necessary.
09-25-2010, 02:02 PM
#23
My 6.0 with the Trex is running 10w40 Castrol, dont care for synthetic as i am sure this service truck engine never saw any, so why start?
As for the "egged cylinder walls"...not in these engines. They just dont wear out, even mistreated the walls dont get worn badly. The piston rings are low tension and thinner than the old SBC, just another reason they are better.
As for the "egged cylinder walls"...not in these engines. They just dont wear out, even mistreated the walls dont get worn badly. The piston rings are low tension and thinner than the old SBC, just another reason they are better.
09-25-2010, 06:41 PM
#25
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LOL. No offense, but it sounds like you need to do a bit more research than just on Penzoil Platinum.
A 5w 30 oil, and a 10w30 oil are the same thickness at operating temperature...
I will use pretty much any filter besides FRAM. If you want to spend a bit more money, the K&N, and M1 filters are supposed to be good, but are not necessary.
A 5w 30 oil, and a 10w30 oil are the same thickness at operating temperature...
I will use pretty much any filter besides FRAM. If you want to spend a bit more money, the K&N, and M1 filters are supposed to be good, but are not necessary.
09-25-2010, 08:18 PM
#26
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09-25-2010, 11:35 PM
#27
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-e...uestion164.htm
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
09-25-2010, 11:45 PM
#28
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Ok, I'll say that I won't use Penzoil in anything except my lawn mower and weedeater...
I might switch to Valvoline and definately wouldn't mind using Royal Purple. I've never heard that M1 has a lower viscosity than what it's rated at. I do have access for Amsoil at my shop, but never really was interested in it because it's for german cars...
I always used M1 because it's what GM asked for.
I'll probably try a different brand when I do my next oil change.
NEW QUESTION: What tranny fluid should I use for my T-56 when I change my clutch out? Last time I threw in generic O'Reiley's tranny fluid cause it's what I had on hand... I don't like the smoothness in shifting, but at the same time I don't wanna use Royal purple tranny fluid. For ****'s sake, I could use 75W-90 and I'd be alright. I'm just looking for a more quality tranny fluid with smoother shifts...
I might switch to Valvoline and definately wouldn't mind using Royal Purple. I've never heard that M1 has a lower viscosity than what it's rated at. I do have access for Amsoil at my shop, but never really was interested in it because it's for german cars...
I always used M1 because it's what GM asked for.
I'll probably try a different brand when I do my next oil change.
NEW QUESTION: What tranny fluid should I use for my T-56 when I change my clutch out? Last time I threw in generic O'Reiley's tranny fluid cause it's what I had on hand... I don't like the smoothness in shifting, but at the same time I don't wanna use Royal purple tranny fluid. For ****'s sake, I could use 75W-90 and I'd be alright. I'm just looking for a more quality tranny fluid with smoother shifts...
09-26-2010, 12:12 AM
#29
Funny....Ferrari uses Pennzoil and is advertising like crazy for it(of course it's all about money/marketing in the end). You can actually dig up a article somewhere about a guy putting over a million miles on his chevy(I believe it was) on nothing but penzoil. Pennzoil even bought him a new truck so they could buy his old one to study the engine. I will have to see if I can find the article, really interesting.
I actually plan on giving the new Pennzoil ultra synthetic a try when my motor is completed.
I actually plan on giving the new Pennzoil ultra synthetic a try when my motor is completed.
Last edited by turbo; 09-26-2010 at 12:18 AM.
09-26-2010, 01:28 AM
#32
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I'm so against Penzoil because that's what they use at a lot of quick lube shops. Those shops all have bad reps PERIOD. There's not getting around that. Not to mention that Penzoil is a cheap oil. The only thing cheaper are the horribly off brands they sell at gas stations that use the name of the store, like 7-11oil or Sham-oil or Exxoil.
09-27-2010, 07:29 PM
#35
With 10W-30 the 10 is the vescosity at cold temps (starting temps) and 30 is the vescosity rating when heated to engine operating temps.
Valve seals will not cause oil comsumption, may cause a little to sit in the vavle chamber but not a quart.
LS1's just burn oil. It's the problem you get when running an aluminum block. Aluminum expands and contracts faster and more than cast iron.
"Ovaling" will happen in an engine that is ran at a consistent high rpm for long periods of time and is also caused by crank walk. For example in Grand Prix or Circle track cars were they are turning 5-6k for 4 hours straight. Boats are also prone to ovaling which is why they are all cast iron. It is just stronger at the cost of weight and easier to tolerance.
I use 10w-30 Valvoline Syntec, just a point of preference. I have also heard good things about Penzoil Plat.
09-27-2010, 08:54 PM
#36
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You got it backwards.
With 10W-30 the 10 is the vescosity at cold temps (starting temps) and 30 is the vescosity rating when heated to engine operating temps.
Valve seals will not cause oil comsumption, may cause a little to sit in the vavle chamber but not a quart.
LS1's just burn oil. It's the problem you get when running an aluminum block. Aluminum expands and contracts faster and more than cast iron.
"Ovaling" will happen in an engine that is ran at a consistent high rpm for long periods of time and is also caused by crank walk. For example in Grand Prix or Circle track cars were they are turning 5-6k for 4 hours straight. Boats are also prone to ovaling which is why they are all cast iron. It is just stronger at the cost of weight and easier to tolerance.
I use 10w-30 Valvoline Syntec, just a point of preference. I have also heard good things about Penzoil Plat.
With 10W-30 the 10 is the vescosity at cold temps (starting temps) and 30 is the vescosity rating when heated to engine operating temps.
Valve seals will not cause oil comsumption, may cause a little to sit in the vavle chamber but not a quart.
LS1's just burn oil. It's the problem you get when running an aluminum block. Aluminum expands and contracts faster and more than cast iron.
"Ovaling" will happen in an engine that is ran at a consistent high rpm for long periods of time and is also caused by crank walk. For example in Grand Prix or Circle track cars were they are turning 5-6k for 4 hours straight. Boats are also prone to ovaling which is why they are all cast iron. It is just stronger at the cost of weight and easier to tolerance.
I use 10w-30 Valvoline Syntec, just a point of preference. I have also heard good things about Penzoil Plat.
09-27-2010, 09:04 PM
#37
Banned
I am gonna start using this.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/8
It has a lot of Zinc in it (which helps with wear and tear) But I currently use German Castrol 0W30.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/8
It has a lot of Zinc in it (which helps with wear and tear) But I currently use German Castrol 0W30.
Last edited by NoTractionLS1; 09-28-2010 at 12:06 AM.
09-27-2010, 11:33 PM
#38
i can confirm mobil 1 burns more than any other oil, it also causes a 5psi dip in oil pressure.
I was running mobil 1 5w30, switched to 0w30 mobil 1, then went castrol 5w30 this time and saw a gain of about 5 psi at operating temperature.
mobil gets runny when its hot, but im thinking with the smaller drain holes in the 98 block that it is a better oil to run.
in conclusion it doesnt matter, even the ac delco filter is now made by a fram affiliate. they changed the design on the pf46 filter some time last year. next time your bored in the auto store check out the inside of the pf46 ac delco and the fram, they look exactly the same now with the filter element exposed. the ac delco use to have solid walls with holes in it but not anymore
I was running mobil 1 5w30, switched to 0w30 mobil 1, then went castrol 5w30 this time and saw a gain of about 5 psi at operating temperature.
mobil gets runny when its hot, but im thinking with the smaller drain holes in the 98 block that it is a better oil to run.
in conclusion it doesnt matter, even the ac delco filter is now made by a fram affiliate. they changed the design on the pf46 filter some time last year. next time your bored in the auto store check out the inside of the pf46 ac delco and the fram, they look exactly the same now with the filter element exposed. the ac delco use to have solid walls with holes in it but not anymore
09-27-2010, 11:47 PM
#39
Christ some bad info in here, Myself would stick with a 30 weight oil since thats what GM intended to run in the ls motor. My car used a far amount of M1 and switch to amsoil 0w30 sso which is a little on the thicker side of the 30 weight while M1 was the thinner side. and have less consumption after the switch to amsoil. Now if you or have a engine built and the builder states to use something else thats a differnt story. A catch can mite not be a bad idea also.
