Need help from shop/mechanic ASAP
#1
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Need help from shop/mechanic ASAP
A couple of Fridays ago, when I tried to leave UH, the car wouldn't start. I'd get the ding, dash lights, etc. It started like 15 minutes later. This past Monday, it did the same thing, but I waited about an hour before it started. Tuesday night, my Dad replaced the starter, it wouldn't fire, then we realized the positive terminal was corroded. We cleaned it and it fired up. Thursday morning the car fires up and I go to work. Thursday evening I leave work and go get my haircut. When I tried to leave, it wouldn't start. The salon lady had a friend of hers go up there. He poked around, made sure the battery cables were on tight, made sure it was getting juice, etc. My headlights turn on, too. However, one of the 15A starter fuses under the hood wasn't getting power. Well, it still wouldn't start for a while, then after I close the hood, it starts. He thinks the alarm system might be messing up or there's an ignition problem. The aftermarket alarm on the car requires a key card. I think the car is doing the same thing as if the card isn't in there, but I'm not totally sure. Can anyone (shop/mechanic) diagnose this this weekend and possibly fix it? I'm not going to class this morning because I don't want to get stuck at UH. However, if the car starts, I might drive to work. But I really need help today if someone can. I'll just skip work. Let me know.
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have you tested the battery it may be going out.... put it on a battery charger on the highest setting then hook a DMM to your battery terminals if your DMM reads above 15.5 within 3 min the the battery is bad.... if bad replace and go from there... if not I woud focus some attention on the alarm system...
good luck
michael
good luck
michael
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have you tested the battery it may be going out.... put it on a battery charger on the highest setting then hook a DMM to your battery terminals if your DMM reads above 15.5 within 3 min the the battery is bad.... if bad replace and go from there... if not I woud focus some attention on the alarm system...
good luck
michael
good luck
michael
Also, the damn car started this morning the very first time!
So, I drove to work. I'd rather be stranded up here than Robertson Stadium at UH. I may just see if someone can disconnect the alarm for me.
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#9
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Replace your starter and ignition relays and check the ground straps on the back of the cylinder heads. Cheapest way to rule out at least one thing. I think the relays are like $5 a piece.
#10
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Hmmm... Almost sounds like passkey issue... The two contacts inside the key cylinder might be getting loose. They read the resistance of the chip/pellet in your key. I went thru the exact same thing, intermittent starts till ****** would not start at all. I replaced the cylinder and key. There are work around as well if that is in fact the case. Next time it won't start, look and see if the 'Security Light' is flashing...
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Are those the ones you're talking about? There are like two or three, right?
Also, ground straps?
#12
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Hmmm... Almost sounds like passkey issue... The two contacts inside the key cylinder might be getting loose. They read the resistance of the chip/pellet in your key. I went thru the exact same thing, intermittent starts till ****** would not start at all. I replaced the cylinder and key. There are work around as well if that is in fact the case. Next time it won't start, look and see if the 'Security Light' is flashing...
#13
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The ignition relay and starter relay are in the fuse box under the hood, two big gray sqaure relays right next to each other.
There are grounding straps bolted to the back of both cylinder heads, these are the grounds for alot of things but more specifically the ignition coils. Check to see if they are corroded and/or loose. Either of those things will make it act up.
There are grounding straps bolted to the back of both cylinder heads, these are the grounds for alot of things but more specifically the ignition coils. Check to see if they are corroded and/or loose. Either of those things will make it act up.
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The ignition relay and starter relay are in the fuse box under the hood, two big gray sqaure relays right next to each other.
There are grounding straps bolted to the back of both cylinder heads, these are the grounds for alot of things but more specifically the ignition coils. Check to see if they are corroded and/or loose. Either of those things will make it act up.
There are grounding straps bolted to the back of both cylinder heads, these are the grounds for alot of things but more specifically the ignition coils. Check to see if they are corroded and/or loose. Either of those things will make it act up.
#17
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Yeah mine did the same thing and 5 out of 10 times tapping on the relays seemed to make it start. Then i replaced the relays and it started for about 6 months then started acting up again. Ended up being the starter solenoid which probably fried the relays. BUt it was very intermittent.
In my quest to fix mine i did the following...
New Battery
VATS Bypass
New Alternator
New Igntion Relay
New Starter Relay
Cleaned & Tightened Ground Straps
New PCM (Internal Fault Code Present)
New BCM (Internal Fault Code Present)
Disabled Factory Alarm (Locked doors manually and had fuel pump disable turned off in hp tuners)
After all that my starter finally crapped out, put a new starter in it and started using my factory alarm again and so far its been 2 months without issue. Lets hope it stays that way or a z06 is in my near future.
In my quest to fix mine i did the following...
New Battery
VATS Bypass
New Alternator
New Igntion Relay
New Starter Relay
Cleaned & Tightened Ground Straps
New PCM (Internal Fault Code Present)
New BCM (Internal Fault Code Present)
Disabled Factory Alarm (Locked doors manually and had fuel pump disable turned off in hp tuners)
After all that my starter finally crapped out, put a new starter in it and started using my factory alarm again and so far its been 2 months without issue. Lets hope it stays that way or a z06 is in my near future.
#18
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Call the local dealer, the diagnosis might take a bit being an intermittent issue. Its going to be an hour labor to diagnose but usually once they figure it out that hour goes towards the repair. Id just call your local dealer and ask them what their rates are. Going rate seems to be about $100 an hour.
#19
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I picked my key and cylinder up from a salvage yard for 60 bucks.... You will have to have a locksmith or dealer reprogram the car to accept the key if the resistance changes....
If you do not want to go that route, you can measure the resistance of the chip in your key with a digital multi-meter, then go to a radio shack and buy some resisters and solder them into the wiring harness that goes to your BCM. There are more steps than that, so look up some write-ups in regards to getting rid of passkey/VATs bypass
If you do not want to go that route, you can measure the resistance of the chip in your key with a digital multi-meter, then go to a radio shack and buy some resisters and solder them into the wiring harness that goes to your BCM. There are more steps than that, so look up some write-ups in regards to getting rid of passkey/VATs bypass