blinker issues
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blinker issues
ok, so I'll try to make this as short as possible. basically when I click the right blinker is flashes really slow, I figured it was a bulb that had gone out. but all of them work. all fuses are good also. but the weird thing is, that the slow motion blinking may take like five seconds or fifteen. its random. and also, my rear lights wouldnt flash a few days ago, but now they do and my front one (under the head light) isnt flashing. But it does come on when I turn my lights on. so i've concluded that its not any of the bulbs. what do you guys think?
#4
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First, double check all bulbs. Swap them around to be sure they work properly. Do your hazards blink at normal speeds? Do all bulbs light up?
Check the connectors while you're checking the bulbs. Look for corrosion. Can of Pepsi will clean up any mess you've got in there.
Then if all else fails, your flasher unit is probably going toast.
Report back with findings.
Check the connectors while you're checking the bulbs. Look for corrosion. Can of Pepsi will clean up any mess you've got in there.
Then if all else fails, your flasher unit is probably going toast.
Report back with findings.
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ok I will give you answers to all of those by tomorrow or saturday. Also, if the flasher unit was going bad would it effect only the right side? or is there individual flasher units for left and right?
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yea man these cars are known for burning up the connectors. mine do it too. high resistance can cause this as well. its called big bulb little bulb theory. if you have burned connectors get new connectors and bulbs. apply di-electric grease and it is possible to use to much which can cause the current to hydrolock so apply as needed. if you think its too much its because it is.
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well before you get on here and post about something your not familiar with umm dont post. you might learn something. then again a lot of people dont go very far in depth when it comes to electrical. soooo dielectric grease can cause a hydrolock in the connector also known as hydrostatic lock and hydraulic lock. and because i have a feeling you might try to call my bullshit. here is a copy and past from a website that explains how dielectric grease can do exactly what i said it will, hydrolock.
When it comes to dielectric grease more is not better. Don't create hydraulic lock. Hydraulic lock is created when too much grease increases the surface tension on both mating surfaces. The excess fluid pressure actually pushes the mating surfaces away from each other. This can actually cause a marker light to not light, which then in turn is considered hydraulic lock.
soo take your and thanks
When it comes to dielectric grease more is not better. Don't create hydraulic lock. Hydraulic lock is created when too much grease increases the surface tension on both mating surfaces. The excess fluid pressure actually pushes the mating surfaces away from each other. This can actually cause a marker light to not light, which then in turn is considered hydraulic lock.
soo take your and thanks
Last edited by mjcotroneo; 11-12-2010 at 03:12 AM.
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#8
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I was going to link this too
well before you get on here and post about something your not familiar with umm dont post. you might learn something. then again a lot of people dont go very far in depth when it comes to electrical. soooo dielectric grease can cause a hydrolock in the connector also known as hydrostatic lock and hydraulic lock. and because i have a feeling you might try to call my bullshit. here is a copy and past from a website that explains how dielectric grease can do exactly what i said it will, hydrolock.
When it comes to dielectric grease more is not better. Don't create hydraulic lock. Hydraulic lock is created when too much grease increases the surface tension on both mating surfaces. The excess fluid pressure actually pushes the mating surfaces away from each other. This can actually cause a marker light to not light, which then in turn is considered hydraulic lock.
soo take your and thanks
When it comes to dielectric grease more is not better. Don't create hydraulic lock. Hydraulic lock is created when too much grease increases the surface tension on both mating surfaces. The excess fluid pressure actually pushes the mating surfaces away from each other. This can actually cause a marker light to not light, which then in turn is considered hydraulic lock.
soo take your and thanks
Oh ****!!! My new hero lol Nothing like getting put in your place.
People in the office "whats so funny" lol
Not making fun of the guy that just got told but, damn mjcotroneo has the best way of putting things
Last edited by SSHAWK; 11-12-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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Thanks guys hahaha. sshawk I guess this is not the first reply to a moron you've seen of mine? lol. I was talking to lucky about this last night. This forum is falling apart because of people like this. If you dont have anything that is beneficial to the original poster then dont post just keep reading. Normally I wouldnt be that much of a jackass but when thousands of people get on here and read what we write and someone attempts to make me look like an idiot. uhhh sry dude but I spent too much money and too much time going through the GM program and being a tech to be made to look like an idiot especially when it's electrical 101. They spent more time teaching us about the electrical system on these vehicles to not learn a little bit lol. Not saying I dont make mistakes but dude just because your profile says tech resident doesnt make you a tech. Soooooo when attempting to make someone look dumb make sure you are 100% correct. lol
On another note I did not mean to hi-jack this thread but im sure you'll be a little understanding. Thanks and I hope the information that I did give helped you out at all. If need some more help on how to test to find your open or short don't hesitate to ask.
On another note I did not mean to hi-jack this thread but im sure you'll be a little understanding. Thanks and I hope the information that I did give helped you out at all. If need some more help on how to test to find your open or short don't hesitate to ask.
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ok, well I have been busy so I have not been able to mess with this much, but when I pulled up to my gym today, I noticed that the running light (passenger side) below the headlight was not one, but the left one was. The other day when I checked it, it was working. So I guess my first thing to try is swapping bulbs, applying that grease, and cleaning the connector. How do I go about cleaning it? Someone said a can of pepsi, do I just pour it on? that just seems weird to me
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well another update: I got to my girlfriends house tonight and I got out with my car running and headlights on to check, and the orange light that wasnt working earlier today was working. So where do you guys think that I should start? by replacing the front bulb and cleaning the connector?
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pull the socket out and remove the bulb. look at the inside of the connector and see if it looks burnt. you will know. it will look like...well black and burned haha. if it is not then apply the grease to it and place it back. i had to actually take my peanut bulbs out of mine so that the two 3057's (big bulbs) would blink. you might have to do this. ive tried tracking down my short or pinched wire thats causing the high resistance. so this is what ive done for the mean time until i feel like looking. ive had to replace the sockets that hold in the 3057 bulbs and that still didnt help for long. i will actually try and check it out tomorrow on my car so if i find a pinched wire ill let you know and you might get lucky and have it in the same spot. also check your rear sockets. the rears could be burned causing high resistance throughout the entire harness for that blinker. but if its turning off and turning on i would check both terminals because when its wiggled around its obviously working. there could very well be your short. hope this helps. if you have to, you can call me or text me and ill try to walk you through it. 214-683-1509 names miles