'02 SS not starting
Does the security light stay on while the key is on? Or, does it come on for a few seconds and then go out? If it comes on and stays on, then it is the VATS. If it doesn't, then it must be the clutch switch or starter. It takes 15 minutes to pull the starter, then take it to a parts store and have it checked. Starters are extremely easy to remove and reinstall on these cars.
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From: Katy/Cypress/Pearland, Texas Bitches!
Does the security light stay on while the key is on? Or, does it come on for a few seconds and then go out? If it comes on and stays on, then it is the VATS. If it doesn't, then it must be the clutch switch or starter. It takes 15 minutes to pull the starter, then take it to parts store and have it checked. Starters are extremely easy to remove and reinstall on these cars.
No one carries the neutral safety switch except Hi/Lo. $6
It looks simple to replace but it also looks like a bitch to get at. Anyone swap out this part yet?
If it doesn't fix the issue I'll consider pulling the starter... Something, I'm sure will be a bitch as the car is sitting on sagging sportlines and I'm not necessarily skinny.
Damn beer and football creeped up on me! Lol!
:chu g: I've had the clutch switch fail on both of the 3rd gens ive owned over the years and it did exactly the same thing as you describe. As far as I know it's the exact same switch used in the 4th gen cars. I haven't had the switch fail in my 02 SS, but it doesnt get drove much. So the clutch switches are prone to fail from time to time. It's easy to check if the switch is bad, just make a short jumper out of #12 wire with spade connectors on each end. Disconnect the factory connector from the clutch switch and push the jumper connectors into the factory connector this will bypass the switch. Be sure the car is in neutral before you try to start it when the switch is bypassed. If the car starts you need a new clutch switch. You can also remove the clutch switch and put a digital multimeter on the connections and check for continuity when the switch is pushed in to test the switch. If you dont get good continuity the contacts in the switch are toast and you need a new clutch switch. If you use the bypass jumper method I don't recommend leaving the jumper in to get by till you get a new switch for obvious safety reasons - the car WILL start when in gear and the #12 wire could possibly get hot with prolonged use and cause a fire. It will work fine for the test but I wouldn't try to use it for a patch to get by.
Last edited by Mguncowboy; Jan 7, 2011 at 04:04 PM.
Changing the switch isn't all that bad if you don't mind being upside down on your head in a floorboard that's half the size you need to fit into. Then you have to work ur hands into a cluttered space to work all while holding a flashlight in your teeth so you can see. No biggy, a few four letter words and you'll be done in no time.
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From: Katy/Cypress/Pearland, Texas Bitches!
I've had the clutch switch fail on both of the 3rd gens ive owned over the years and it did exactly the same thing as you describe. As far as I know it's the exact same switch used in the 4th gen cars. I haven't had the switch fail in my 02 SS, but it doesnt get drove much. So the clutch switches are prone to fail from time to time. It's easy to check if the switch is bad, just make a short jumper out of #12 wire with spade connectors on each end. Disconnect the factory connector from the clutch switch and push the jumper connectors into the factory connector this will bypass the switch. Be sure the car is in neutral before you try to start it when the switch is bypassed. If the car starts you need a new clutch switch. You can also remove the clutch switch and put a digital multimeter on the connections and check for continuity when the switch is pushed in to test the switch. If you dont get good continuity the contacts in the switch are toast and you need a new clutch switch. If you use the bypass jumper method I don't recommend leaving the jumper in to get by till you get a new switch for obvious safety reasons - the car WILL start when in gear and the #12 wire could possibly get hot with prolonged use and cause a fire. It will work fine for the test but I wouldn't try to use it for a patch to get by.
Changing the switch isn't all that bad if you don't mind being upside down on your head in a floorboard that's half the size you need to fit into. Then you have to work ur hands into a cluttered space to work all while holding a flashlight in your teeth so you can see. No biggy, a few four letter words and you'll be done in no time.
If you feel brave, get under the car by the starter and with the car on, jump the main positive wire to where the purple wire goes. 12v is there and you could use a pair of old pliers.
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From: Katy/Cypress/Pearland, Texas Bitches!
Good idea- will try this
So I was able to swap out the Neutral Starter safety switch. It was very simple to change out- no tools required and no knuckles were busted during the surgery but there were a few cuss-words.
I went to start it (thinking my problems were over) NOPE. same result. At least I have a new switch and I feel more like a mechanic (hahaha)
I think, tonight before I kill myself jumping the car, I'm going to do a ritual and rub used car oil under each eye (like a football player) and play Zen music, so if I do go- at least when the paramedics arrive I will look like I knew what the Fuc# I was doing.
Well that sucks that it wasn't the clutch switch. Swap the relays like stated above to test the relay. It's easy and free. I would also recommend if your going to do a starter test that you jumper at the relay, it's a lot easier to get to than the starter (don't forget to put it in neutral before doing these tests). If you get no start u prob have a starter prob. If you decide to try to jump the terminals at the starter (be sure your in neutral) be aware that hot sparks and molten metal may shower you and your eyes, any tool you use to jump the terminals will potentially be destroyed, you risk destroying the threads that hold the wires on making it difficult to remove the starter and you risk welding said tool from the positive terminal (which is direct from the battery) to any thing that tool touches that is metal causing a massive short, instantly turning said tool red hot and seconds later the insulation on the battery cable will be on fire, you won't be able to remove the tool by hand do to the temperature if this happens. Best case senerio is you can get the tool off with minimal fire damage and or burns, worse case your car burns or your battery explodes and u don't want to be under it or around it when that happens. I don't recommend jumping the terminals at the starter, we've all done it, but that doesn't mean it was a great idea. It usually works with no prob, just be aware the potential for catastraphy is real and very possible. If u been a shade tree mechanic u prob already know all this so just ignore the safety talk. Just hate to see someone get hurt or a car worse off cuz they just didn't know.
the car should crank with the security light on it only disables the ecu. try to aply 12v at the purple wire in the passenger side fender in the engine bay, its a one wire connector, make sure its in neutral. if it cranks then its a bad neutral switch or ignition switch, if it doesnt crank its the starter.
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From: Katy/Cypress/Pearland, Texas Bitches!
Well that sucks that it wasn't the clutch switch. Swap the relays like stated above to test the relay. It's easy and free. I would also recommend if your going to do a starter test that you jumper at the relay, it's a lot easier to get to than the starter (don't forget to put it in neutral before doing these tests). If you get no start u prob have a starter prob. If you decide to try to jump the terminals at the starter (be sure your in neutral) be aware that hot sparks and molten metal may shower you and your eyes, any tool you use to jump the terminals will potentially be destroyed, you risk destroying the threads that hold the wires on making it difficult to remove the starter and you risk welding said tool from the positive terminal (which is direct from the battery) to any thing that tool touches that is metal causing a massive short, instantly turning said tool red hot and seconds later the insulation on the battery cable will be on fire, you won't be able to remove the tool by hand do to the temperature if this happens. Best case senerio is you can get the tool off with minimal fire damage and or burns, worse case your car burns or your battery explodes and u don't want to be under it or around it when that happens. I don't recommend jumping the terminals at the starter, we've all done it, but that doesn't mean it was a great idea. It usually works with no prob, just be aware the potential for catastraphy is real and very possible. If u been a shade tree mechanic u prob already know all this so just ignore the safety talk. Just hate to see someone get hurt or a car worse off cuz they just didn't know.
Im actually a YouTube Mechanic. (LOL!) So, im worse than a shade tree mechanic.
Maybe I'll graduate to shade tree level after this install. LMAO
The schematics come from alldatapro.com . I think they're safe enough for use. I did forget about the experience thing. If you're unsure about jumping the starter terminal, then don't.
This is just for jumping at the terminals at the starter. Jumperimg it at the relay (at the correct spot) or using the purp test lead if it checks out is the way to go. I'll be keeping the purple wire in mind for my own use once I have time to look at the schematic. If your not sure about Jumperimg or where to jumper just disconnect the battery and pull the starter and take it to the parts store to be tested to be safe.
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Am i the only one who caught this?????? every thread i read the OP answers his own questions. WTF? do you have a volt meter and a buddy?
