Need TEXAS sized help!!!!!
Need TEXAS sized help!!!!! OK so in the middle of a head an cam swap and as I was tightning the bolts.... the number one listed bolt broke. I torqued them all to 22 lbs as it says, then drew a line on them vertical with a line on the top. I then rotated them 90 degrees in the proper order just as it says to. (That was the easy part.) Then its back to #1 dead center bolt in the heads and then ""POP"" bolt broke. I had about 7 threads left to go but really it had another 90 degrees. I then took all the remaining bolts out and what do I do now???
ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THIS ONE OUT?
ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THIS ONE OUT?
Was this a head bolt? Got pics of where the bolt broke? The same thing happened to me, head bolt broke (about an inch into the block) and the end result was building a new motor. If it is a factory bolt (not an arp) you might be able to drill it out
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LOL, why are you using stock head bolts? Get ARP headbolts or studs, stock head bolts are garbage, and by the looks of the picture, they look like your old ones. The sequence is 22lbs first pass, then 50lbs second pass, then 80lbs, then another 80lb pass just to make sure. I didn't mess with the whole turn 90* sequence when I did my headswap...
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Verdad Gallardo They were brand new bolts from GM.... yes I cleaned the bolt holes. I did that part twice over with a grooved one of my old bolts and I even rigged up a vacuum with my old crossover heat tube. I cut the tubing and used it like a straw to get the rest out. Worked great. I do have arp bolts on the way but i guess I need an easy-out tool and begin again with the new arp's. My question is if anyone can instruct me on how to do this? I am not a complete idiot but this does not sound simple. Thanks for laughing at me though...
I just dont know if those will be long enough to get to the bolt. The easyout will have to be about 5" long just to get to the bolt. I have not seen anything long enough yet. The tool set above doesn't look like it is long enough to get in there.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-40349.html
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6164_200396164
The bottom left in the snap-on case also do the same thing. They don't necessarily have to be long enough to reach, maybe something like these sockets will work. They fit on the end and you can ratchet it off.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6164_200396164
The bottom left in the snap-on case also do the same thing. They don't necessarily have to be long enough to reach, maybe something like these sockets will work. They fit on the end and you can ratchet it off.
Last edited by 5w20; Mar 14, 2011 at 01:52 PM.
OK so in the middle of a head an cam swap and as I was tightning the bolts.... the number one listed bolt broke. I torqued them all to 22 lbs as it says, then drew a line on them vertical with a line on the top. I then rotated them 90 degrees in the proper order just as it says to. (That was the easy part.) Then its back to #1 dead center bolt in the heads and then ""POP"" bolt broke. I had about 7 threads left to go but really it had another 90 degrees. I then took all the remaining bolts out and what do I do now???
ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THIS ONE OUT?
ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THIS ONE OUT?
Just hope you don't drill the bolt, attempt to use the easy out and then have the easy out snap in half!
Been there done that, and they are even harder to grind down than they bolt itself! Took me a solid 10hrs, several bits, and a massive amount of patience grinding it down LOL!
Been there done that, and they are even harder to grind down than they bolt itself! Took me a solid 10hrs, several bits, and a massive amount of patience grinding it down LOL!
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 13
From: Texas
If you broke a bolt more than likely you have water in that hole (you can't compress a fluid). Have you pulled the heads back off to see if the bolt is broken above or below the deck? You may be able to get it out with an easy-out. But, keep in mind they are hard, and brittle. If you break one, you can't drill it out as it is harder than your drill bit. The only thing that can get out broken taps and ease outs is an EDM. A few shops in Houston have them and can save a motor with them in it. The big issue with ease outs is that people don't drill straight, and the bolts in many cases are in threads that take too much force to extract the bolt. Then they break off the ease out.
Someone said to drip some oil in there so it comes out easier after you drill the hole and get the easyout to bite. So once its all set in there you have the metal to metal lubed, this way your less likely to break the easyout. I will photo it and post it on here so people see ho to do this. Maybe e-mail it to "LS1 How To" as well. That is what I was following along by.....
The bolt is way down there, I snapped off about 3/4 of the threaded end so I know i will need a long small drill bit to reach the piece of bolt.
There is absolutly no water in the hole. I vacuumed it all out....
The bolt is way down there, I snapped off about 3/4 of the threaded end so I know i will need a long small drill bit to reach the piece of bolt.
There is absolutly no water in the hole. I vacuumed it all out....
Last edited by Texas-Firehawk; Mar 14, 2011 at 02:24 PM.
I have never had that happen but if I did I would drill the pilot hole for the easy out, vacuum out the shavings, test seat the easy out, heat the hols as best you can ( maybe drip some gas in there and light it, be careful and use common sense; if it's a bad spot don't do it, or if you think this is a bad idea don't do it) then while it's hot try the easy out
