Does anyone have one that I can rent/borrow tomorrow to do my springs?

 

Will the one from autozone work or does it have to be ls specific ?

 

I changed my LS1 springs to LS6 springs with the tool from autozone. For single springs it works great actually.

I used one of these no problems.


http://www.zorotools.com/g/imagewindow/44637/

 

OK cool, thanks

 

It did pop off the coils a couple times, the key is going slow and easy, it is easy to knock the retainer locks out and loose them so have a pen magnet ready to grab the locks when you compress the spring. I had a tiny hammer that I tapped on all the retainers first to loosen them up from the locks.

You can get a little screwdriver and dip it in grease then stick the locks on the end, the grease will hold the retainer, it's kind-of a PITA to drop the locks in there with that tool.

I say I used it with no problem, I have done it several times before, it's not hard just don't get in a rush and go crazy and you'll be fine.

Do you have a way to put compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves up?

 

Ive got one of the cheap, used to be sold by a member homemade compression tools. Worked very well. Im prob a lil further from ya, but if you want to use it, gimme a shout.

 

I do Have a way to provide compressed air..but that isn't needed with the TDC method right? I tried.using that compression check tool.from.autozone and there was no way I could make that work between the headers.

 

I don't know how high the piston will hold the valves if you do the TDC, it may let them fall down enough that you cant compress the spring enough to engage the locks in the retainer. If you can put a screwdriver in the hole to hold the valve all the way up while the piston is all the way up you should be okay.

I did mine with air, using a compression test hose to hook up to the air line. I also have headers.

 

use the TDC method, no air is needed.

 

Sounds good guys...thanks for the input.

 

Good to know, that would have saved me some headache. How much does the valve drop down when you do that?

 

Maybe a few mm's if the piston is all the way to the top. Some will actually just stay up because if the valve seal. You won't have any trouble doing it this way if you do it in the correct sequence.

IIRC it's 18726543.

Using the specified LSx valve spring tools saves a lot of time and makes the job much easier. Other generic tools can be used, but it is much more of a headache doing it with those.

 

Sounds good, but wouldn't think the sequence would matter, if one piston is at TDC they wont all be so you would just need to go cylinder by cylinder and make sure the piston is all the way up. Unless I am not getting something that you meant by the sequence.

 

WOW that WAS a PITA. I used the autozone spring tool. It was after I changed the #1/#6 springs that I realized those were the only springs I was replacing tonight. Im not replacing all of them without the custom tool. Anyhow, Im back on the road now. While I was in there I also did away with that crank case scavenge system and it idles high for a while then goes to normal.

 

Put it back on lol. It's important to have a PCV system, it draws contaminants and moisture out of the crankcase.

For me it wasn't fun to do the valve springs with that tool but it isn't fun with any tool IMO...

Glad to hear it's back up and running!

 

If you go in sequence, it will keep you from needlessly spinning the engine around multiple times. Kind of like doing a valve adjustment on a 4 cylinder.

 

After I deleted the Pcv system the car stopped burning a quart of oil between changes