I have 98 TA M6 with 39,000 miles pretty much stock except for a lid and a catback. the motor got hydrolocked, has a crack in the block and probably 1-2 bent rods. $3500 including installation. I street race every once in a while, go to the track around 4 times a year.

My first option would be to get a used ls1 shortblock, used LT and ORY, used ls6 intake, used UD pulley and probably a zo6 or sleeper cam (don't like the lope) and a tune.

Second, get a forged shortblock ($3000) and (500 left) save a little more for the installation. it probably would take a year or less to start modding the car.

Third, ???


What's a good price for a used shortblock?
What would be a fair price for the labor on the two options?
What would be the best thing to do?

Thanks !!

 

If it were me, I would do it right the first time while you are at it...I would do a 408 forged short block and you can always get better heads later on. You could throw alot of gas at it this way as well...

 

Forged 347 for me just becasue I dont like iorn blocks.

 

408 is more than I can afford. heads as well (poor college student) $4000 would be the most I can spend with the installation included.
I don't plan on going more 400 hp because it will require 12 bolt and a good clutch (it costs more $3000 for just that)
thanks for your opinion anyways!!

 

Forged 347 around $3000 little to no hp gains. it will take me around a year to start modding the car.

thanks for comment!!

 

Well it sounds like you've already answered your own question then...Seems to me all you want is a stock shortblock so you can "mod" the car...Becides no motor requires a 12 bolt. You can have a 427 and still a stock 10 bolt, its all on what you plan on doing with the car. I have known several people with stock motors break 10 bolts...

 

with the 408 and stock heads, manifolds, etc. how much hp do you think I can get?
are they reliable?

 

408 is perfectly reliable...Its just a 6.0 litre motor out of a truck that has been stroked and bored...It just depends on what you build the motor for is how much power it will put out without heads/manifold...You can build a low compression motor or a high compression motor...It's whatever you want...

 

Ive been living with the 10 bolt and 400hp for over a year now. As long as you dont dead hook out of 1st gear you dont really have to worry.

 

what's the difference between low and high compression?
what would be a safe compression?

 

You oughta become good friends with a local salvage yard operator and get him to buy you a totalled out T/A or Z like I just did. After paying my friend his "finders fee", I got a 99 WS6 T/A that is totalled w/good drivetrain for $2,640...

 

Put it this way...Our cars stock have a compression of 10.1:1...You can normally get away with up to 11.0:1 compression in our cars on pump gas. A low compression motor is normally for forced induction or alot of gas...The amount of compression also has to do with the amount of bleed off from you cam...Its really cylinder pressure is what your aiming for which I believe the max you want on pump gas is 170-175 psi...

 

www.howstuffworks.com
explains everything about a motor, compression and all.

 

Thank you Donanaynay...