Does this look like a valve hit the piston? Need help?
#22
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I do have diffirent pistons....didnt find that out till i took the head off. Freaken fasteck and their crap work. 3 on that side have the valve relifs and the last one in the back doesnt. But it still made 400+ RWHp. LOL just enough to give a GT a nice good raping.
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/\/\/\/\/\ nope i belived all the rumors and never did as soon as I get this thing back together ill spray the crap out of her. Well Im not gonna over do it. Where can i get a valve spring compressor tool??
#26
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i was at idle when mine broke, it just knocked and ticked alot and the motor shook like hell. never heard any bangs or anything like that.
i noticed in this picture there is a build up of oil around the piston. im not sure what that means but the rest of your pistons look "clean" and dont have oil like this. and in your picture of the head i noticed you do have some "knicks" in the head above the valve. looks like piston #3 and the damage to the head match up, you may have a cracked ring but im still not sure how you have those indentions without breaking the valve or having pieces of the valve spring go into the combustion chamber or rattle around. do you have all the pieces of the valve spring itself? maybe some pieces of the valvespring got in there and some smaller pieces effed up the ring
just a thought
ok the piston order im referring to
front of car - 1-2-3-4
i noticed in this picture there is a build up of oil around the piston. im not sure what that means but the rest of your pistons look "clean" and dont have oil like this. and in your picture of the head i noticed you do have some "knicks" in the head above the valve. looks like piston #3 and the damage to the head match up, you may have a cracked ring but im still not sure how you have those indentions without breaking the valve or having pieces of the valve spring go into the combustion chamber or rattle around. do you have all the pieces of the valve spring itself? maybe some pieces of the valvespring got in there and some smaller pieces effed up the ring
just a thought
ok the piston order im referring to
front of car - 1-2-3-4
Last edited by chrysler kid; 02-11-2008 at 04:36 PM.
#27
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The plug in that cylinder is a lighter color than the rest too. What did the gaskets look like? I would put a socket on a breaker bar and spin the motor around. Id be curious to see if one of the pistons wont come up.
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gasket looked good. I belive that was some of the water from the heads comming off not oil on the piston. I guess it does look kind of suspect. Ill inspect it tomorrow when i get home and take pics of everything again. Maybe ill get some carb cleaner and clean it off alittle. Plus that where the sound was comming from around there. So what do those knicks mean? Would it be something that is an easy fix or is it something that i need to pull the motor and look at it??
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I dont see any broken springs rented a tool from autozone come to find out thats for the single springs. The springs look to be ok, but i want to take them off just to check anyway. Ill be looking @ piston 3 first to see if a valve was bent. Ill take somemore pics tonight when i get home on the pistons and head.
#35
How was your oil pressure before you tore the engine down? Is the engine still in the car or have you pulled it?
I'm gonna go totally opposite of everyone else and say: Spun Bearing
Drain your oil, and stick an extendable pen magnet in your oil pan from the drain plug. If you get flakes, then that's your answer.
When a bearing spins out on a rod, it (in layman's terms) grinds itself into the big end housing bore. With no bearing there anymore, the rod knocks AND can actually hit the head as it comes over the top, since the housing bore is now "bigger."
Just stick a magnet in there, if it comes out clean, then you may be out of the woods in that department. Good luck!
I'm gonna go totally opposite of everyone else and say: Spun Bearing
Drain your oil, and stick an extendable pen magnet in your oil pan from the drain plug. If you get flakes, then that's your answer.
When a bearing spins out on a rod, it (in layman's terms) grinds itself into the big end housing bore. With no bearing there anymore, the rod knocks AND can actually hit the head as it comes over the top, since the housing bore is now "bigger."
Just stick a magnet in there, if it comes out clean, then you may be out of the woods in that department. Good luck!
#37
It might be to your advantage to pull the motor, or at least the pan. Pulling the pan opens up a world of information that simply pulling the heads won't tell you. Too bad you're in Dallas or I'd give you a hand.