Welding help/information
#22
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I took 2 welding classes at the local community college. It was great, did oxy/fuel, stick, flux core, MIG, TIG. Cost $450 for both classes and I got about 70 hours of welding time out of it plus some expert advice.
We used all Miller welders, all pretty beefy with huge duty cycles. I really liked using the Miller equipment and even their cheaper stuff seems nicer than the comparable lincoln gear.
Aluminum with a MIG is possible, but it is a major PITA. Aluminum with a TIG is super easy, once you get the feel down for it I was laying down beautiful stacked dimes on aluminum.
If you don't plan on doing aluminum, get a MIG it is going to be a LOT faster. If you ever think you will do aluminum get a TIG. Bonus on the TIG is that you will also be able to stick weld, which will be a big plus if you ever need to build something BIG. TIG welding is a lot like Oxy/fuel in that you are using both hands and adding metal as you move the torch.
For me...I am saving up for an TIG that can do it all. Easy to control for sheet metal, good penetration still avaible on a 220V setup, can do stick (fast and cheap and penetrates well) and can do stainless and aluminum.
Phonebook will have all the different welding supply companies, some may give you a demonstration. I think the cheapest way to learn is to take some classes so you can decide a) what you really want and b) you use their gas, their welding rod, their metal to practice!
We used all Miller welders, all pretty beefy with huge duty cycles. I really liked using the Miller equipment and even their cheaper stuff seems nicer than the comparable lincoln gear.
Aluminum with a MIG is possible, but it is a major PITA. Aluminum with a TIG is super easy, once you get the feel down for it I was laying down beautiful stacked dimes on aluminum.
If you don't plan on doing aluminum, get a MIG it is going to be a LOT faster. If you ever think you will do aluminum get a TIG. Bonus on the TIG is that you will also be able to stick weld, which will be a big plus if you ever need to build something BIG. TIG welding is a lot like Oxy/fuel in that you are using both hands and adding metal as you move the torch.
For me...I am saving up for an TIG that can do it all. Easy to control for sheet metal, good penetration still avaible on a 220V setup, can do stick (fast and cheap and penetrates well) and can do stainless and aluminum.
Phonebook will have all the different welding supply companies, some may give you a demonstration. I think the cheapest way to learn is to take some classes so you can decide a) what you really want and b) you use their gas, their welding rod, their metal to practice!
#23
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#24
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1/16" flux core at 200+ amps. Good god thats HOT!!! Ive run tht stuff a couple times and hated it. It welds good and you can fill up a huge bevel quick, but to hell with all the fire ***** and just the heat coming off that stuff. How often do you go through a pair of gloves and jacket? They have to get eaten up.
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1/16" flux core at 200+ amps. Good god thats HOT!!! Ive run tht stuff a couple times and hated it. It welds good and you can fill up a huge bevel quick, but to hell with all the fire ***** and just the heat coming off that stuff. How often do you go through a pair of gloves and jacket? They have to get eaten up.
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i would really look into getting a tig machine. miller makes some really affordable machines, i think my buddy paid like 1300 bucks for his. it would be very helpful to take a class if your starting with tig though. I have both a miller 210 mig and a miller tig in the shop i work in and i seldom use the mig unless in in a hurry. tig is just a better process. and you can weld aluminum if you need to (you also can with mig and a spool gun, but from what ive seen they suck.) if you do get a mig def get a miller, you can pick up a small miller 110v used for dirt cheep if you keep you eyes open
#27
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don't waste your money on lincoln. get a Hobart or Miller. if it costs less than $1000, it's either used or junk, IMHO. im a welder by profession, so i have pretty high standards. if you're just wanting to "mess around" with a welder, you're looking at either wasting your time, or wasting your money. if you're serious about it, you need to get a decent machine and reserve a lot time for studying, both in the shop and in the books.
as for turbo parts, you'll want a TIG, i would anyway...a Miller Synchrowave 200 would be a kickass little TIG rig for you, otherwise look for a Millermatic 251 MIG. Ebay and craigslist are good places to look for decent machines. if you really want to learn and get good, buy a good machine. you make it pay for itself VERY fast if you want to.
as for turbo parts, you'll want a TIG, i would anyway...a Miller Synchrowave 200 would be a kickass little TIG rig for you, otherwise look for a Millermatic 251 MIG. Ebay and craigslist are good places to look for decent machines. if you really want to learn and get good, buy a good machine. you make it pay for itself VERY fast if you want to.
ive had a lincoln 175 amp mig for about 7 years now and ive had absolutley no ptoblems with it. ive done everything from exhausts and body work to welding in frame rails and harness bars for rally cars with it. looking to get a tig now to start more refined work and i was looking at a 225 amp lincoln. what do you dislike about lincoln so much. im not doubting your experience and the fact that you have more than me im just wondering if i should reconsider the tig im looking at.
#28
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ive had a lincoln 175 amp mig for about 7 years now and ive had absolutley no ptoblems with it. ive done everything from exhausts and body work to welding in frame rails and harness bars for rally cars with it. looking to get a tig now to start more refined work and i was looking at a 225 amp lincoln. what do you dislike about lincoln so much. im not doubting your experience and the fact that you have more than me im just wondering if i should reconsider the tig im looking at.
#29
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the ones i've happened to use had their issues. i'm not saying lincoln can't build a good welder, they just don't last in my line of work from my experience. what i CAN say, is the lincoln tigs i've used (that were decent) didn't run anywhere NEAR as smooth as the Miller tigs i've used. i'm not sure how they compare in price, but a Miller 250 DX is pretty much the best non-portable welder you can buy, IMHO...assuming you get the "TIG Runner" package with the cooler and water-cooled torch. the 350 DX is even better, but overkill for anything anyone on this site would need, usually. i like the arc stability of the squarewave when you're running AC on aluminum. the lincolns don't seem to have the same cleaning effect and the arc seems to want to wander...from what i've seen.
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i've never used an econotig, but they look like sweet machines for light/hobby use. we just put a 200series Maxstar setup in out tube welding shack at work, it performs amazingly as well.
#31
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for stuff like chassis/roll cage and mabey even light body work will pulsing be important. ive got a mig if need be for body work so if it doesnt o body thats not too important.
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For those reading this thread and just getting started welding, take safety seriously. I just gave myself a miserable case of Arc Eye earlier this week. The mask I used was crap and I didn't realize the repercussions of doing a couple tack welds without it. Get yourself a GOOD mask with auto-dim so you won't be tempted to not use it.
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the econotig i use is great, as long as you dont plan on welding ALOT of aluminum or any aluminum thats really thick. miller actually makes some that dont have arc welding capability (and who needs that) that are cheeper and just as nice.
#35
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For those reading this thread and just getting started welding, take safety seriously. I just gave myself a miserable case of Arc Eye earlier this week. The mask I used was crap and I didn't realize the repercussions of doing a couple tack welds without it. Get yourself a GOOD mask with auto-dim so you won't be tempted to not use it.
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You dont need a auto-dim welding shield, they are just a luxury. I have probably 5 welding shields, and my favorite is an old school jackson with the extra large lens. I can see alot better with it than my speedglass welding hood. The extra large lens Jackson is only like 30 dollars compared to the $300+ for the speedglass. Just make sure you weld with one so you dont get flash burn like the guy above.
#37
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The jackson hood i am talking about is not automatic. To anyone that is just starting, dont waste money on a really expensive auto dim. Just get your hands where they need to be, and flick the hood down with your head.
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I don't have one myself but I go to Dad's house when I need to do some welding. He has a 110v miller, and I really like it, but I'm currently doing chassiswork, so I borrowed my uncle's 220v Millermatic 200. I LOVE IT. It's older than me, but lays a bead like puttin ketchup on a burger, just about effortlessly.
All I can recommend is to try different settings on scrap pieces of metal, and practice practice practice. I've been welding for quite a few years, never professionally, but just out of practice and experience, I can trust my abilities to build frames and weld on other people's vehicles(something I don't do unless I'm 100% positive of my capabilities)
All I can recommend is to try different settings on scrap pieces of metal, and practice practice practice. I've been welding for quite a few years, never professionally, but just out of practice and experience, I can trust my abilities to build frames and weld on other people's vehicles(something I don't do unless I'm 100% positive of my capabilities)
#39
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For those reading this thread and just getting started welding, take safety seriously. I just gave myself a miserable case of Arc Eye earlier this week. The mask I used was crap and I didn't realize the repercussions of doing a couple tack welds without it. Get yourself a GOOD mask with auto-dim so you won't be tempted to not use it.
As long as you use safety glasses along with the welding shield, getting "welders flash" is highly difficult but not impossible. Even if you are not welding, safetly glasses are important. ANY type of welding omits UV rays that are extemely powerful and concentrated which is the reason people get flashed and sunburn if not wearing glasses or sleeves. Safety glasses reflect the harmful UV rays and add to the protection. Getting welders flash is essentially sunburn of the eye and is extremey painful.
Weld. Be safe and have fun with it!