Welding Cast Iron Brake backing plates
05-14-2010 | 09:48 PM
#1
Welding Cast Iron Brake backing plates Well I bought the backing plates for the 12 bolt I was going to install. I wanted to have everything done so I could just swap the rears. I need to pull the axles and install reluctor rings for my traction control also.
So I purchased the backing plates off someone on here. That was back awhile ago. I went to pull them out and I noticed the tab that holds some parking brake pad was busted clean off. Well I fixed my china cast iron brake/shear that I broke when I way overloaded it. With this technique.
1. I read that some people had good success with cast iron by making small stitch welds for short distances to prevent the casting from getting too hot.
You need to let it cool completely between welds. I let this cool for 2 commercials before running out and making another pass.
Preheating to the right temperature and cooling correctly is no small task. So not having to do it is nice.
2. I use hobarts nomacast rod on the first pass as it pulls out the impurities.
3. The I make all the rest of the passes with nickel 55.
4. I use DC+ on my precision TIG 225.
Heres a few pictures, at least I didn't waste $50.00
Ed
The tab was completely busted off.
So I purchased the backing plates off someone on here. That was back awhile ago. I went to pull them out and I noticed the tab that holds some parking brake pad was busted clean off. Well I fixed my china cast iron brake/shear that I broke when I way overloaded it. With this technique.
1. I read that some people had good success with cast iron by making small stitch welds for short distances to prevent the casting from getting too hot.
You need to let it cool completely between welds. I let this cool for 2 commercials before running out and making another pass.
Preheating to the right temperature and cooling correctly is no small task. So not having to do it is nice.
2. I use hobarts nomacast rod on the first pass as it pulls out the impurities.
3. The I make all the rest of the passes with nickel 55.
4. I use DC+ on my precision TIG 225.
Heres a few pictures, at least I didn't waste $50.00
Ed
The tab was completely busted off.
05-16-2010 | 02:05 AM
#2
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland
preheating can be super easy if you have a weed burner for a propane tank. You can get a temp stick at any welding shop for a couple bucks.
Pre heat it, rub the stick on it. When it melts your ready to go. I always welded it, and not let it cool down below my starting temp. Say 250 degrees. After its welded make sure to shot peen it. I also burried the parts in Kitty litter or sand so they cooled slowly. A fast cool can weaken or crack the cast.
Pre heat it, rub the stick on it. When it melts your ready to go. I always welded it, and not let it cool down below my starting temp. Say 250 degrees. After its welded make sure to shot peen it. I also burried the parts in Kitty litter or sand so they cooled slowly. A fast cool can weaken or crack the cast.
