new car jack low version junk or decent jack?
#1
new car jack low version junk or decent jack?
car is a 99WS6
thinking of purchasing a nice floor jack. I have plastic ramps and one set of 17" stands however
the OEM jack & large block of wood is wearing me out.
what do you Guy's think of this jack? is jacking under the middle of K-member (lifting complete front) put a strain on the 3K LB jack and is this when it's hydrolics busts a nut and fluid goe's everywhere?
I'm thinking it's low enought to clear a Wings West front air dam I've never gotten because I like my ramps w/ this low jack I could use the ramps on the back and stands in the front.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3000-lb...ack-91039.html
Thanks
thinking of purchasing a nice floor jack. I have plastic ramps and one set of 17" stands however
the OEM jack & large block of wood is wearing me out.
what do you Guy's think of this jack? is jacking under the middle of K-member (lifting complete front) put a strain on the 3K LB jack and is this when it's hydrolics busts a nut and fluid goe's everywhere?
I'm thinking it's low enought to clear a Wings West front air dam I've never gotten because I like my ramps w/ this low jack I could use the ramps on the back and stands in the front.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3000-lb...ack-91039.html
Thanks
Last edited by badmfkr; 06-30-2010 at 06:15 AM.
#2
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iTrader: (49)
i generally try to stay away from stuff from harbor freight that will potentially endanger my life....that being said i had a Jegs aluminum jack that appears to be the same as the one you linked, and from day one, it bled down slowly. i had to rest the handle against the car to get it to stay up. I always leave my jack under the car and up against the frame or whatever just incase the stands failed, and this jack scared the **** out of me multiple times.
#5
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Hey:
Good advice on watching what you buy when it comes to some tools, but I feel it does not apply to this jack.
Those Jacks are fine and many of the tools from Northern tool, TSC and Harbor Freight are made, in the same factory.
Don't take someones word, that has never used one, about the quality of them,(not referring to anybody whom has posted here). A lot of people dismiss Harbor Freight for their own political or egotistical reasons not any of practicality. Its easy to spend someone else's money. Compare that jack to a Craftsman (checking where it made as well, you may be surprised to find that out) price wise and if the Craftsman is twice as much or more then buy the HF one if not, then get the Craftsman, if it makes you feel better.
Thats a real good deal I have one and paid more than that for it over 6 years ago, about 3x that to be exact. When a Craftsman was over 400.00 for the similar thing. The whole rest of my shop was Mac and Snap On with a few Craftsman Pro items, in there as I needed them, but as time goes on I find myself purchasing more tools from Harbor Freight. Why, because I can go get them locally and if or when they break I can replace them cheap enough, if they don't have a lifetime warranty already. Believe it or not even the best tools break. I bought this jack as my Vette was impossible to jack up without being on the ramps, and they were a pain too as I had to remove the front G/fx to get it on them. My big 8 ton Mac wouldn't fit under my car. Its been a good jack, and I would say that IMHO it was well worth what I paid and may buy another at that new price. Its way better than how you are doing it now, and if you change your mind and go this route put anti sieze compound on all the alloy and steel parts that move and come in contact with each other as that is one of the main sources of problems, with cheaper jacks, that is they corrode and mar the diferent metals, also only jack on level surfaces, a no brainer there but not all driveway or garages are built correctly. This will help this cheaper investment go alot farther down the road.
If it blows fluid all over then that can happen to many jacks especially if its overloaded. Also if it does do that down the road in a few years, take it to a hydraulics shop and have it rebuilt with top line components or the ram replaced with a better one. It will still be cheaper than many other jacks you could have bought, and then you know where you can get quality parts for it from then on. Now if you plan on lifting your full size suburban with it forget it its the wrong tool for that, I just figured I would offer another and different perspective on what has been posted many times in this forum.
A couple of other options:
http://www.asedeals.com/service-jacks-omega.html
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5429_200345429
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Good advice on watching what you buy when it comes to some tools, but I feel it does not apply to this jack.
Those Jacks are fine and many of the tools from Northern tool, TSC and Harbor Freight are made, in the same factory.
Don't take someones word, that has never used one, about the quality of them,(not referring to anybody whom has posted here). A lot of people dismiss Harbor Freight for their own political or egotistical reasons not any of practicality. Its easy to spend someone else's money. Compare that jack to a Craftsman (checking where it made as well, you may be surprised to find that out) price wise and if the Craftsman is twice as much or more then buy the HF one if not, then get the Craftsman, if it makes you feel better.
Thats a real good deal I have one and paid more than that for it over 6 years ago, about 3x that to be exact. When a Craftsman was over 400.00 for the similar thing. The whole rest of my shop was Mac and Snap On with a few Craftsman Pro items, in there as I needed them, but as time goes on I find myself purchasing more tools from Harbor Freight. Why, because I can go get them locally and if or when they break I can replace them cheap enough, if they don't have a lifetime warranty already. Believe it or not even the best tools break. I bought this jack as my Vette was impossible to jack up without being on the ramps, and they were a pain too as I had to remove the front G/fx to get it on them. My big 8 ton Mac wouldn't fit under my car. Its been a good jack, and I would say that IMHO it was well worth what I paid and may buy another at that new price. Its way better than how you are doing it now, and if you change your mind and go this route put anti sieze compound on all the alloy and steel parts that move and come in contact with each other as that is one of the main sources of problems, with cheaper jacks, that is they corrode and mar the diferent metals, also only jack on level surfaces, a no brainer there but not all driveway or garages are built correctly. This will help this cheaper investment go alot farther down the road.
If it blows fluid all over then that can happen to many jacks especially if its overloaded. Also if it does do that down the road in a few years, take it to a hydraulics shop and have it rebuilt with top line components or the ram replaced with a better one. It will still be cheaper than many other jacks you could have bought, and then you know where you can get quality parts for it from then on. Now if you plan on lifting your full size suburban with it forget it its the wrong tool for that, I just figured I would offer another and different perspective on what has been posted many times in this forum.
A couple of other options:
http://www.asedeals.com/service-jacks-omega.html
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5429_200345429
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 06-30-2010 at 09:15 PM. Reason: added links and content
#6
Aluminum racing jacks are just not meant to replace a proper, steel shop floor jack. Those designs are just not as strong and stable as a nice heavy shop jack, and I wouldn't recommend any of them unless you need something that you can take with you to the track or something.
That said, I really want one of those Arcan XL35's...
I doubt any normal length low profile jack will reach the K-member on one of these cars and still have room for you to pump it... to do that you need a long length, low profile jack, and they're a whole other hassle (you need a lot of open space around the car to work it).
That said, I really want one of those Arcan XL35's...
I doubt any normal length low profile jack will reach the K-member on one of these cars and still have room for you to pump it... to do that you need a long length, low profile jack, and they're a whole other hassle (you need a lot of open space around the car to work it).
#7
10 Second Club
iTrader: (30)
I just bought this exact jack. It is fine and I've had no problems with it. I'm not using it to jack up cars and **** every single day all day so it will be fine for you too if don't over use it. I also got the 3 ton jack stands there too.
For everyone saying **** about aluminum vs steel jacks I would like to see actual literature and testing on this instead of your own opinions. When and *IF* there is any reading on this I will look into a steel jack if necessary.
For everyone saying **** about aluminum vs steel jacks I would like to see actual literature and testing on this instead of your own opinions. When and *IF* there is any reading on this I will look into a steel jack if necessary.
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#9
10 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Aluminum racing jacks are just not meant to replace a proper, steel shop floor jack. Those designs are just not as strong and stable as a nice heavy shop jack, and I wouldn't recommend any of them unless you need something that you can take with you to the track or something.
That said, I really want one of those Arcan XL35's...
I doubt any normal length low profile jack will reach the K-member on one of these cars and still have room for you to pump it... to do that you need a long length, low profile jack, and they're a whole other hassle (you need a lot of open space around the car to work it).
That said, I really want one of those Arcan XL35's...
I doubt any normal length low profile jack will reach the K-member on one of these cars and still have room for you to pump it... to do that you need a long length, low profile jack, and they're a whole other hassle (you need a lot of open space around the car to work it).
#10
I just bought this exact jack. It is fine and I've had no problems with it. I'm not using it to jack up cars and **** every single day all day so it will be fine for you too if don't over use it. I also got the 3 ton jack stands there too.
For everyone saying **** about aluminum vs steel jacks I would like to see actual literature and testing on this instead of your own opinions. When and *IF* there is any reading on this I will look into a steel jack if necessary.
For everyone saying **** about aluminum vs steel jacks I would like to see actual literature and testing on this instead of your own opinions. When and *IF* there is any reading on this I will look into a steel jack if necessary.
On average aluminum has half the mass and half the yield strength of steel, so a similar structure of aluminum will weigh a bit more than half of the comparable steel jack (because even the aluminum one will have steel cylinders, hydraulics, pivot pins, wheel axles, hardware...), and be half as strong before it yields... So how strong do you think one that is 1/4-1/5th the weight? Part of it is that it's just not as big, but it's also not nearly as strong.
Yes, it might be rated to lift the same weight, the hydraulics will move the same weight, but it will fold when you get the load on it slightly offset MUCH sooner than a proper shop jack (and I've seen one fold in the pits at the track during an f-body event, he was lucky the least of his problems was that one of the tires was off, it landed on it's brake rotor and crushed the rocker panel).
Ever notice that you _never_ see them in places intended to sell towards serious mechanics, well, at least not for regular shop use, they might have it listed separately as sort of a novelty or "isn't this cool" thing.
#11
I have the arcan xl 35, it's the best jack i have ever owned, and it gets used daily on road sevices, but @ 109 lbs I leave my ***** on the ground every time. I need to get a low pro aluminum for all the little cars we service. But the xl35 has lifted our c-5500 flatbed to change a blowout.... incredible jack.
#12
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I don't consider a floor jack to be a "safety" item, since it's foolish to trust ANY jack to keep the car in the air. The jack's only purpose is to keep the car in the air while I carefully place floor jacks under it. My father has run his body shop with cheap jacks (Harbor Freight and BJ's Wholesale jacks) for 30 years. He stopped spending $200+ on jacks because in a harsh body shop environment, they ALL start to leak in a fairly short time.
That said, because my IROC is lowered, I needed a low profile jack. I also needed one with a long reach so that I could get to my crossmember and still have the handle out far enough to be able to jack.
I bought this:
Amazon has it for $200, but I got the exact same jack from a tool vendor at a swap meet for $100.
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Garage...605708&sr=8-14
I'm very happy with the jack. It's got a long throw, is very low profile, has a rubber jacking pad, quick pump, and best of all, it's heavy duty enough to lift ALL of my vehicles, including my 6200lb truck.
Harbor Freight has a similar jack for $80, but it's only a 2 ton, doesn't have the quick-pump and doesn't have the rubber pad: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ack-67022.html
That said, because my IROC is lowered, I needed a low profile jack. I also needed one with a long reach so that I could get to my crossmember and still have the handle out far enough to be able to jack.
I bought this:
Amazon has it for $200, but I got the exact same jack from a tool vendor at a swap meet for $100.
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Garage...605708&sr=8-14
I'm very happy with the jack. It's got a long throw, is very low profile, has a rubber jacking pad, quick pump, and best of all, it's heavy duty enough to lift ALL of my vehicles, including my 6200lb truck.
Harbor Freight has a similar jack for $80, but it's only a 2 ton, doesn't have the quick-pump and doesn't have the rubber pad: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ack-67022.html
#13
OP: I purchased the same jack you have pictured in your first comment.. I haven't got to use it too much.. but I'm only using it for oil changes, brakes, and minor maintenance between a couple of LS1s and a 1500 silverado.
Just an example, but I did help a friend change the oil in his 06 navigator and I was jacking it up about two feet behind the front drivers side tire ( on the frame) and it got the front tire off the ground but it I had to put a little muscle into getting it up... but that was a lot of weight for it and it held the weight fine.
I've only owned this jack for about two months and I have lifted my Camaros about 10 times, silverado twice, and a navigator once and from what I have saw.. it is doing a great job.. so for your ws6.. I think you will be happy with it..
It fits my needs perfectly.. I'm quite satisfied with my purchase.. doesn't break the bank either.. Handle also breaks down into two pieces and comes out of the jack so it is quite easy to store.. it also has a nice lift pad that fits perfectly on my lift points.. so I don't have to put anything between the lift pad and the car (as I had to do before with some previous jacks).. and it rolls quite well on a concrete floor.. Doesn't roll too well on blacktop though.. but I guess none of them do too well.
I probably wouldn't try and roll it around under load or use it as an only support though... just in case. I'm pretty cautious about lifting vehicles.
Sorry about the long post.. I started with a small post.. and ended up with a somewhat full review..Hope this help
I also forgot to mention.. here's a link to some harbor freight coupons.. one of them being $10 off the jack your looking at..
There is a few other coupons on there as well that might interest you or someone else. You can print them out and take them in store or use them on an online purchase.
http://www.harborfreight.com/wood
Just an example, but I did help a friend change the oil in his 06 navigator and I was jacking it up about two feet behind the front drivers side tire ( on the frame) and it got the front tire off the ground but it I had to put a little muscle into getting it up... but that was a lot of weight for it and it held the weight fine.
I've only owned this jack for about two months and I have lifted my Camaros about 10 times, silverado twice, and a navigator once and from what I have saw.. it is doing a great job.. so for your ws6.. I think you will be happy with it..
It fits my needs perfectly.. I'm quite satisfied with my purchase.. doesn't break the bank either.. Handle also breaks down into two pieces and comes out of the jack so it is quite easy to store.. it also has a nice lift pad that fits perfectly on my lift points.. so I don't have to put anything between the lift pad and the car (as I had to do before with some previous jacks).. and it rolls quite well on a concrete floor.. Doesn't roll too well on blacktop though.. but I guess none of them do too well.
I probably wouldn't try and roll it around under load or use it as an only support though... just in case. I'm pretty cautious about lifting vehicles.
Sorry about the long post.. I started with a small post.. and ended up with a somewhat full review..Hope this help
I also forgot to mention.. here's a link to some harbor freight coupons.. one of them being $10 off the jack your looking at..
There is a few other coupons on there as well that might interest you or someone else. You can print them out and take them in store or use them on an online purchase.
http://www.harborfreight.com/wood
Last edited by areax; 07-10-2010 at 03:48 AM.
#15
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This jack from Northern is about the lowest profile jack around, and it's long reach is nice.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...9613_200329613
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...9613_200329613
#16
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http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
I bought a DK13HLQ 13 years ago and it works as good today as it did on day one.
13 years ago, it was a heckuva cheaper than it is today, but still, it is a quality piece that you can will to your kids.
I can't imagine working in my garage without it. The pad goes from 3" ro 38". That means with car on jackstands, I can lift the diff all teh way up with trying to balance it on wood blocks.
I bought a DK13HLQ 13 years ago and it works as good today as it did on day one.
13 years ago, it was a heckuva cheaper than it is today, but still, it is a quality piece that you can will to your kids.
I can't imagine working in my garage without it. The pad goes from 3" ro 38". That means with car on jackstands, I can lift the diff all teh way up with trying to balance it on wood blocks.