BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

After searching every hardware store within 20miles for a 130mm metric bolt for the crank to press the pulley on I decided to order one on E-bay for $22. It consisted of the bolt, nut, and 2 washers. The tool worked ok, it really needs 4 more washers as both coned BAD. Then I had a hard time getting the bolt out because it got so tight.

I had gone through dozens of threads looking for the best way to press on the pulley and saw no mention of renting this from Auto zone, just the pulley removal tool was talked about. Today I went there to rent a 240lb torque wrench and figured I'd ask about a pulley installer. They brought out the same kit that GM recommends. Has about 8 different bolt sizes including the m16 x 2.0 that LS1's need. It also comes with a bearing you put in front of the nut...all for $45. I would have rather bought this kit to keep. So for those looking to press on the pulley, don't waste your money on these home grown kits.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Ive always just tapped it in till the old crank pulley bolt reached enough threads for me to be comfortable, knowing it wouldnt strip. Then pressed it in.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

wow....

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

"tapping" it on may not be ideal but big deal if he didnt strip the threads... Whatever works with what you got to get the job done...

I always just heat the hub of the pulley with a small propane torch. Works wonderfully... the pulley seats completely on the crank (basically just falls on) and within 1 second all of the heat is pulled out of the hub and the pulley is locked on. No damage to the front seal or anything. heat is pulled out very quickly. Have over 30,000 miles on this front seal and done this twice on this seal.

ErikSOCAL

iTrader: (1)

I had the autozone loaner this weekend thinking about doing the same thing. Didn't get to the job and returned it to make sure I got the credit back but after looking through it, seems like it isn't long enough. I didn't try to tap the balancer on with a rubber mallet first which should take up some of the distance. Ideally that kit would have about a 10" long bolt to run the nut down to seat the balancer on the crank without having to do anything else. Anyone used it successfully?

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Thats not the proper way?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^^ I've pulled a thread out of my crank doing that... No bueno..

There's a guy on here somewhere that makes and sells install tools. Cheap insurance, IMO, but a great and solid tool. Was worth every penny.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

why buy one if you can go to Autozone and get the kit for free? The kit is better than any ive seen on here and definately better on the wallet.

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

I went to a hardware store and bought a bolt like 1.5" longer than the crank pulley bolt and a bunch of washers.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The level of mechanical knowledge here is comical when discussing wapping a balancer with something. Seems not a sole here knows what a thrust bearing is, what it does, or how little it takes to deform them.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ Yep. The tool the guy made from here has a torrington bearing and all hardened parts. Screw the shaft into the crank snub all the way till it bottoms out, then tighten the collar down which presses the pulley on. Works pretty good and no hammering involved.

And why did I buy from here?? Support the "little guy."

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Here's a pic of the kit. Supporting business is cool. I'd rather save the money and I think most members would too. Which is why I made this thread.

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...27144/image/4/


Kit # 27144

It'llrun

Rental of pulley pullers/installers is common in auto parts stores. Most of them charge the full price of the tool/kit and return the full amount when the item is returned, thus making it a free rental. Ya just need to be careful as to which you get... The one on the retail floor shelf is for sale, not rental. Behind the counter, they'll have the rentals. Advance, Auto Zone and O'reilly all rent and sell tools.

Note: A harmonic balancer should never be "tapped" or "hammered" on. Due to the design, either of those "operations" can damage it beyond use. Plus, that may cause unseen damage which would simply lead to premature failure. Heat has been used for years, but it's not the best option even though it can be harmless if done correctly.

1Psycho

iTrader: (9)

I went and got that tool rental from autozone, didn't go in far enough since I could barely get my crank pulley on. Went out and bought a huge bolt that's the same size as the crank bolt but way longer and got a bunch of washers for it. Went right in with no worry about stripping the threads. Either do that or buy the tool from the guy on here, just my $0.02

ErikSOCAL

iTrader: (1)

so has anyone used that particular tool successfully? The motor I have is an 09 5.3 that I was installing a corvette balancer on to go with the corvette accessories. The tool will not reach the threads inside the crank with the way I had it set up. The larger threaded piece that the nut and bearing ride down on seats outside the crank, with that said, the M16 X 2.0 piece won't reach the inside threads because the 3/8 bolt isn't long enough... edit - nevermind, just saw above post.
Oh, and I'm not afraid to admit this is all new to me, rubber mallet or no rubber mallet.

sschoeffler

iTrader: (24)

If you are replacing the bolt to hold the harmonic balancer on (which you should do anyway) buy the ARP version. The ARP bolt is also longer than the stock bolt. Use the ARP bolt without the washer it comes with at first to get it started a little bit, then once you have enough clearance for the washer pull the ARP bolt out and re-install it with the washer. Works perfectly and you are upgrading your stock bolt witch a much better bolt. I believe the ARP bolt is a 16 point bolt.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No it doesn't "work perfectly". Its tearing your crank threads up as you tighten and pull the pulley on.

sschoeffler

iTrader: (24)

Wierd I have pulled it and reinstalled it several times never had a problem. None of the threads felt buggered up when installing/reinstalling. If it did seem like it was taking effort to install I wouldn't do it like that but with that longer ARP bolt you have over half an inch of threads that will bite before it bottoms out on the balancer and begins to pull it on. I am running an Eagle 4" stroker crank but I don't think that would have anything to do with it.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

16 point?


bad idea unless you want to pull the threads from the crank....