Would this breaker bar work for UDP bolt???
12-03-2011, 07:02 AM
#1
Would this breaker bar work for UDP bolt??? http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html
I need to unbolt my balancer bolt and I wonder if this tool would do the job, if not. What you guys recommend???
I need to unbolt my balancer bolt and I wonder if this tool would do the job, if not. What you guys recommend???
12-03-2011, 08:09 AM
#2
Looks just like the one I have. If you want an easy way to remove the balancer bolt and are SURE you can take every precaution, I'd do it this way.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
12-03-2011, 08:09 AM
#3
Imo your still gonna need a 3 to 4 ft. pipe for leverage. Put the car in gear with the e brake on, I stood on the drivers side and pushed like hell and I was suprised how easy it broke loose.
Good luck
Good luck
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12-03-2011, 08:53 PM
#8
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Looks just like the one I have. If you want an easy way to remove the balancer bolt and are SURE you can take every precaution, I'd do it this way.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
12-03-2011, 09:56 PM
#9
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Well I have always used a breaker bar about that length and just put against saide frame of car and tap the ignition. Obviously make the car uncapable of starting lol.
12-04-2011, 12:19 PM
#11
Looks just like the one I have. If you want an easy way to remove the balancer bolt and are SURE you can take every precaution, I'd do it this way.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Very good way to break the starter ear off the block and/or destroy the starter. Cant believe a moderator suggested it
Plenty of methods around that arent stupid. If the car is a stick, leave it in high gear and use the long breaker bar. Can also hook a motorcycle strap to the balancer and chassis somewhere to lock it. Cut and weld an old flexplate for a cheapo locker tool, overlap an old belt to a pulley, strong impact gun, screwdriver in the flexplate etc
If you're not a total girl that long breaker bar will make short work of the bolt regardless of the method you use to hold the crank still
12-04-2011, 07:05 PM
#12
NEVER do this to ANY engine
Very good way to break the starter ear off the block and/or destroy the starter. Cant believe a moderator suggested it
Plenty of methods around that arent stupid. If the car is a stick, leave it in high gear and use the long breaker bar. Can also hook a motorcycle strap to the balancer and chassis somewhere to lock it. Cut and weld an old flexplate for a cheapo locker tool, overlap an old belt to a pulley, strong impact gun, screwdriver in the flexplate etc
If you're not a total girl that long breaker bar will make short work of the bolt regardless of the method you use to hold the crank still
Very good way to break the starter ear off the block and/or destroy the starter. Cant believe a moderator suggested it
Plenty of methods around that arent stupid. If the car is a stick, leave it in high gear and use the long breaker bar. Can also hook a motorcycle strap to the balancer and chassis somewhere to lock it. Cut and weld an old flexplate for a cheapo locker tool, overlap an old belt to a pulley, strong impact gun, screwdriver in the flexplate etc
If you're not a total girl that long breaker bar will make short work of the bolt regardless of the method you use to hold the crank still
12-17-2011, 10:23 AM
#13
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Looks just like the one I have. If you want an easy way to remove the balancer bolt and are SURE you can take every precaution, I'd do it this way.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
02-10-2012, 05:43 PM
#15
Looks just like the one I have. If you want an easy way to remove the balancer bolt and are SURE you can take every precaution, I'd do it this way.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
Take the correct socket and that breaker bar. Unplug the injectors and coil packs, try starting the car for a little bit to make sure it will turn over but not actually start (obviously it won't but just make sure). Now position the breaker bar to where it's right near the ground when on the bolt. Turn the engine over so that the torque from the engine against the breaker bar on the ground will break the bolt loose (make sure you get it on the correct side so you don't actually tighten the bolt). Then just take it out by hand.
02-10-2012, 10:40 PM
#17
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I bought that bar a number of years ago. It is what it is for the money, but IMO its a piece of ****. Very flimsy and don't be surprised when the head (spot where the socket goes) snaps clean off the bar. But that is the beauty of inexpensive tools, if they break who cares. Just pray it breaks after it served its purpose (removing the bolt in your case).
On some vehicles, there is not enough room to fit an impact wrench into the provided space to remove the crank bolt. I've always seen people bust out the blue wrench before anything else when removing crankshaft pulleys. That is also on 150k+ miles cars in states where rust/corrosion form. Powerful air tools are also worthless without a good air compressor. If you are buying tools from harbor freight, chances are you don't have a good enough compressor for this task.
I've seen it done a few times and worked great. Is it the right way to do it? No, but it does work. Never seen/heard of a problem with it. Not exactly the first method of choice, but sometimes when time is not on your side and you lack the proper tools, you do what you gotta do.
On some vehicles, there is not enough room to fit an impact wrench into the provided space to remove the crank bolt. I've always seen people bust out the blue wrench before anything else when removing crankshaft pulleys. That is also on 150k+ miles cars in states where rust/corrosion form. Powerful air tools are also worthless without a good air compressor. If you are buying tools from harbor freight, chances are you don't have a good enough compressor for this task.
I've seen it done a few times and worked great. Is it the right way to do it? No, but it does work. Never seen/heard of a problem with it. Not exactly the first method of choice, but sometimes when time is not on your side and you lack the proper tools, you do what you gotta do.
Last edited by Bjorn20; 02-10-2012 at 10:46 PM.
