what valve spring tool to use?
#4
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i use comp cams it looks similar to the one show above just not quite as nice. it's 99 dollars. was worth every penny to me. one word to the wise though, I would NOT use the hardware they supply for the rocker arm bolt. Use your stock rocker arm bolt. the hardware that was included quickly walked the thread right out of my head.
Last edited by tommygjunior; 01-10-2013 at 06:29 AM.
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POCKET stated: "The Tim's tool can be made from scraps, so cost is zero, but you risk damaging the valve cover seat due to the nature of the tool."
No one has ever reported damaging the valve cover rail using Tim's tool.
While it is true that a similar tool can be made from scraps, it can be dangerous to do so. Tim's tool uses a specific material for the tool body that is designed to intentionally bend if overstressed. (A common occurrence for novice mechanics who to forget to loosen the keepers before compressing the spring or over compress the spring and reach coil bind). Tim's Tool bends to minimize the chance of ruining the threads in head. After all, something has to give at that point. Tim's Tool can easily be restored to original shape by hammered flat again after such events.
The other tools are more expensive and place a twisting lateral load on the pedestal allowing for easy thread damage. tommygjunior mentioned his problem of damaging the threads with those tools. Tim's tool uses a special hardened stud exerting a linear load to further minimize the chance of damaging the threads in the head.
Tim's Tool is sold at a very affordable price to help members of this Forum. It has been in use longer than the other tools mentioned and has a fantastic track record.
Why would anyone want to chance damaging their head with a home built tool or spend so much more to purchase one of the other expensive tools?
No one has ever reported damaging the valve cover rail using Tim's tool.
While it is true that a similar tool can be made from scraps, it can be dangerous to do so. Tim's tool uses a specific material for the tool body that is designed to intentionally bend if overstressed. (A common occurrence for novice mechanics who to forget to loosen the keepers before compressing the spring or over compress the spring and reach coil bind). Tim's Tool bends to minimize the chance of ruining the threads in head. After all, something has to give at that point. Tim's Tool can easily be restored to original shape by hammered flat again after such events.
The other tools are more expensive and place a twisting lateral load on the pedestal allowing for easy thread damage. tommygjunior mentioned his problem of damaging the threads with those tools. Tim's tool uses a special hardened stud exerting a linear load to further minimize the chance of damaging the threads in the head.
Tim's Tool is sold at a very affordable price to help members of this Forum. It has been in use longer than the other tools mentioned and has a fantastic track record.
Why would anyone want to chance damaging their head with a home built tool or spend so much more to purchase one of the other expensive tools?
#6
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No one has ever reported damaging the valve cover rail using Tim's tool.
By nature it uses the valve cover rail as a fulcrum, so there is alot of pressure applied. The middle 14 springs are not an issue. Its the outer two that the tool does not sit perfectly flat for that cause an issue and the chance of putting a nick in the rail is present. Not something anyone would like to see on an expensive set of heads
While it is true that a similar tool can be made from scraps, it can be dangerous to do so. Tim's tool uses a specific material for the tool body that is designed to intentionally bend if overstressed. (A common occurrence for novice mechanics who to forget to loosen the keepers before compressing the spring or over compress the spring and reach coil bind). Tim's Tool bends to minimize the chance of ruining the threads in head. After all, something has to give at that point. Tim's Tool can easily be restored to original shape by hammered flat again after such events.
Its plate steel, nothing special about it
The other tools are more expensive and place a twisting lateral load on the pedestal allowing for easy thread damage. tommygjunior mentioned his problem of damaging the threads with those tools. Tim's tool uses a special hardened stud exerting a linear load to further minimize the chance of damaging the threads in the head.
Sure, but anyone whos ever repaired a crank snout thread knows pulling with the threads is a terrible idea, so they throw the supplied bolt away in favor of a stud
Tim's Tool is sold at a very affordable price to help members of this Forum. It has been in use longer than the other tools mentioned and has a fantastic track record.
Granted, but the OP was asking about other tools specifically
Why would anyone want to chance damaging their head with a home built tool or spend so much more to purchase one of the other expensive tools?
Try a crane tool and see for yourself. I have both and prefer the crane tool
By nature it uses the valve cover rail as a fulcrum, so there is alot of pressure applied. The middle 14 springs are not an issue. Its the outer two that the tool does not sit perfectly flat for that cause an issue and the chance of putting a nick in the rail is present. Not something anyone would like to see on an expensive set of heads
While it is true that a similar tool can be made from scraps, it can be dangerous to do so. Tim's tool uses a specific material for the tool body that is designed to intentionally bend if overstressed. (A common occurrence for novice mechanics who to forget to loosen the keepers before compressing the spring or over compress the spring and reach coil bind). Tim's Tool bends to minimize the chance of ruining the threads in head. After all, something has to give at that point. Tim's Tool can easily be restored to original shape by hammered flat again after such events.
Its plate steel, nothing special about it
The other tools are more expensive and place a twisting lateral load on the pedestal allowing for easy thread damage. tommygjunior mentioned his problem of damaging the threads with those tools. Tim's tool uses a special hardened stud exerting a linear load to further minimize the chance of damaging the threads in the head.
Sure, but anyone whos ever repaired a crank snout thread knows pulling with the threads is a terrible idea, so they throw the supplied bolt away in favor of a stud
Tim's Tool is sold at a very affordable price to help members of this Forum. It has been in use longer than the other tools mentioned and has a fantastic track record.
Granted, but the OP was asking about other tools specifically
Why would anyone want to chance damaging their head with a home built tool or spend so much more to purchase one of the other expensive tools?
Try a crane tool and see for yourself. I have both and prefer the crane tool
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#8
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they all will work fine. just depends on how much $$ you wanna spend. I used Trick Flows LS valve spring compressor same design as comps and proforms
i think the trick flow tool was the cheapest on summit thats why i bought it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90306
i think the trick flow tool was the cheapest on summit thats why i bought it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90306
#9
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they all will work fine. just depends on how much $$ you wanna spend. I used Trick Flows LS valve spring compressor same design as comps and proforms
i think the trick flow tool was the cheapest on summit thats why i bought it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90306
i think the trick flow tool was the cheapest on summit thats why i bought it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90306
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#10
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When I did springs on my ls I used an old muffle clamp that I drilled out to thread the rocker bolt then cut the end in a u to press down on the spring ! Worked amazing after I hardened it with a torch and cold water
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I just used a generic OTC valve spring compressor. Sure, you cant use it with the head installed but if you have your heads pulled for any other reason I have never understood paying $100 for a tool that can only be used on one style of LS head. I would had to buy two of these tools to go from the 317 to LS3 heads.