Engine Install, Leveler Worth Using?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
Engine Install, Leveler Worth Using? Hey guys, got a couple weeks to go before getting my motor back from the machine shop however I'm wanting to have my game plan together on installing the motor and any additional parts prior to that. I will be installing the motor from the top coming from the passenger side.
I currently have a valley plate cover and arp valley cover bolts and have been debating on whether to purchase an engine load leveler. Given this has been my first motor pull/install how much easier will a load leveler make the install while connecting to the bell housing/input shaft?
Are there any shops that loan out levelers? I didn't see autozone have it on their loaner tool sheet. Any tips on installing the engine to make it as easy as possible are welcome and appreciated. If it is recommended I go with a leveler probably going to go with OTC if I can't rent one, which has four flanges to bolt to the block.
Can I use the 4 corners of the valley cover with my arp bolts and leveler? Thanks guys.
I currently have a valley plate cover and arp valley cover bolts and have been debating on whether to purchase an engine load leveler. Given this has been my first motor pull/install how much easier will a load leveler make the install while connecting to the bell housing/input shaft?
Are there any shops that loan out levelers? I didn't see autozone have it on their loaner tool sheet. Any tips on installing the engine to make it as easy as possible are welcome and appreciated. If it is recommended I go with a leveler probably going to go with OTC if I can't rent one, which has four flanges to bolt to the block.
Can I use the 4 corners of the valley cover with my arp bolts and leveler? Thanks guys.
Last edited by tommypenguin; Sep 13, 2015 at 06:06 PM.
I think I've done maybe half a dozen swaps over the
decades and never used one, even with the trans
along for the ride. I always used a couple of feet
of chain, bolted to one rear and one front accessory
hole in the heads (all iron motors) criss-cross, and
if I didn't like how the angle was I just lowered the
thing and put the hook in a different place on the
chain, and started over.
Of course all of this was on beaters or "pre-resto"
vehicles (glorified beaters) and if I was responsible
for and caring about engine bay paint scratches,
maybe I'd want more finesse. But probably I will
never buy one, and I'm a tool collectin' fiend.
decades and never used one, even with the trans
along for the ride. I always used a couple of feet
of chain, bolted to one rear and one front accessory
hole in the heads (all iron motors) criss-cross, and
if I didn't like how the angle was I just lowered the
thing and put the hook in a different place on the
chain, and started over.
Of course all of this was on beaters or "pre-resto"
vehicles (glorified beaters) and if I was responsible
for and caring about engine bay paint scratches,
maybe I'd want more finesse. But probably I will
never buy one, and I'm a tool collectin' fiend.
I use a leveler, and find it works well in most instances.
If I am pulling the engine over radiator and core support, and the vehicle has an overhanging firewall, I tip the front of the engine way up as I come up initially, which shortens its length, then I tip it back level to get the rear of the engine to clear the core support.
Lube the threads with fifth-wheel grease, or equivalent, and they turn easy.
If I am pulling the engine over radiator and core support, and the vehicle has an overhanging firewall, I tip the front of the engine way up as I come up initially, which shortens its length, then I tip it back level to get the rear of the engine to clear the core support.
Lube the threads with fifth-wheel grease, or equivalent, and they turn easy.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
Thanks guys, I found that walmart sells a torrin engine leveler online for 25$ brand new that has received good reviews. For the low cost I bought it. It has 4 mounting points with brackets.
I have read of several members using the valley cover bolts. I have ARP valley bolts which are much stronger than stock and 4 points of contact. Most of the engine plates available use 6 valley cover bolts. I will be leaving all accessories off and installing the motor with just the heads, oil pan, clutch/flywheel installed. If I had to guess it's probably 300lbs. I have a little trepidation about the depth of the bolts being about an inch and the possibility of the bolts ripping out the aluminum threads. Probably just being paranoid, thoughts on this approach? Thanks.
I have read of several members using the valley cover bolts. I have ARP valley bolts which are much stronger than stock and 4 points of contact. Most of the engine plates available use 6 valley cover bolts. I will be leaving all accessories off and installing the motor with just the heads, oil pan, clutch/flywheel installed. If I had to guess it's probably 300lbs. I have a little trepidation about the depth of the bolts being about an inch and the possibility of the bolts ripping out the aluminum threads. Probably just being paranoid, thoughts on this approach? Thanks.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
I spent 4 hours today trying to install the motor with and engine leveler and could not get the engine fully seated on the shaft. I was able to get the engine to slide on the splines and pushed in all the way to the throwout bearing on the slave on the side I could see.
I had the engine block guides to bellhousing touching but I could not get the engine block guides to seat in the bellhousing to the point where I could start threading bell housing bolts in.
For reference I swapped the pilot bearing to a pilot bushing, part number is... 14650. I'm planning on buying another 4$ pushing and attempting to slide on the shaft to make sure it fits, however I was pretty confident it did. That is the only thing I can think of that would stop me from hitting pay dirt. I put a little assembly lube on the shaft and also verified my clutch remote bleeder was open. Anything else I could have missed? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
I had the engine block guides to bellhousing touching but I could not get the engine block guides to seat in the bellhousing to the point where I could start threading bell housing bolts in.
For reference I swapped the pilot bearing to a pilot bushing, part number is... 14650. I'm planning on buying another 4$ pushing and attempting to slide on the shaft to make sure it fits, however I was pretty confident it did. That is the only thing I can think of that would stop me from hitting pay dirt. I put a little assembly lube on the shaft and also verified my clutch remote bleeder was open. Anything else I could have missed? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
Turn the motor over with a socket and ratchet while wiggling it, or turn the wheels by hand if the drivetrain is intact. That will get them to drop on the rest of the way usually. I have a leveler, generally just use old seat belts now. Did a 4.2 in a Trailblazer alone, in my driveway, using just a seatbelt on the hoist(and some muscle), PITA but slipping the strap on a tight seat belt did the trick.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
for years i did engine swaps without an engine leveler then about six months ago i finally bought one thinking it would change my whole outlook on the situation. I used it once and gave it to a friend. It has inherent problems, attempting to balance a load where the center of gravity is too far to one end to actually hook to anything let alone to the leveler and then your hoist causes problems. Attempting to install engines set back in engine bays with an overhang are the worst.
Best engine leveler out the was originated by Mykes tools in Oregon, now sold by Macs tiedowns. Have stabbed many engines and engine trans combos with one, great tool. This is not the cheap **** with chains and such.
