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A while back i ordered a line lock/abs delete from SJM. I am just now ready to install it. I just now realized that the flaring tool was not included with it. Pretty disappointed by this, but from what i understand the tool is not the greatest. I need a flaring tool set. I do not want something so cheap that it will fail...but dont need something that will break the bank.
That is the type of Rigid flare tool I use and like very much. I can't say if that's the right one for your flares or not as I do AN flares/fittings on my stuff usually.
to OP
That Ridgid flare tool makes SAE 45 degree flares. Automotive brake lines are either/or/both 'double flare' and 'bubble flare'. Tubing seats for double flare have a tapered protrusion. Tubing seats for bubble flare have a conical depression.
My 98 Z28 3 channel ABS only system had; bubble flare at the end of the main rearward line connecting to the flex hose mounted on the body, double flare coming out of the tee that goes to left and right sides, and bubble flare at the input of the flex hoses that go to the calipers. We have to deal with both double flare and bubble flare.
I know it’s not the cheapest but think about what’s at stake. You, your passengers and others can be injured or killed with a bad flare. I understand people have made successful flares with the traditional clamp style flare tool for years and that’s fine. Me personally, I value my life and the lives of others so safety is not something I will make a compromise with.
The old clamp/screw types are ****. They deform the pipe where they clamp it, and they produce mediocre flares at best, and usually only in copper. No chance in kunifer or steel pipe.
It needs a proper tool like I mentioned for that.
If you dont need portable, then the vise mounted ones really are great and fast to use. The portable version a little slower. But both produce excellent flares even in steel, although I'd never use steel pipe myself. But sometimes you need to flare OEM steel pipe.
I know it’s not the cheapest but think about what’s at stake. You, your passengers and others can be injured or killed with a bad flare. I understand people have made successful flares with the traditional clamp style flare tool for years and that’s fine. Me personally, I value my life and the lives of others so safety is not something I will make a compromise with.
Don't know how old you are but I bought this Mastercool at 50 and wish I had many years ago. Not cheap but buy it once and be done. I lose count if how many "cheap" tools I bought over the years that made the job harder, took longer and in the end were replaced by the right tools.
My pal has the Mastercool and I am totally unimpressed with it. Just a more expensive peice of junk flaring tool. I tried it on stainless and it was a waste of time. Double 45° flares were not centered, the flares were just poor quality. It would probably work better on standard steel. I recently picked up the K Tool International version from Summit and it worked very nice on standard soft steel. It claims to be able to do stainless, I just have not tried that process yet. The K Tool version looks to be the same as Summit, S.U.R.&R. and Eastwood and is considerably less than the Mastercool. I purchased a flaring tool from Matco 20 years ago and I think it was $450 back then. That thing was very capable, but slow, especially for a multiple process flare. It dose the quick disconnect flare that is on fuel lines which is also the same as the o ring flare on power steering lines ( on stainless no less).
That is what I mentioned and seems to be the same no matter who's name is on it. Eastwood, Summit, K Tool, S.R.U. & R. It also has the 37° dies available as well.
My 98 Z28 3 channel ABS only system had; bubble flare at the end of the main rearward line connecting to the flex hose mounted on the body, double flare coming out of the tee that goes to left and right sides, and bubble flare at the input of the flex hoses that go to the calipers. We have to deal with both double flare and bubble flare.
This is true.... BUT you can make both those with a standard flare tool from Napa. It’s not meant to make both types, but you can get it done. My entire car was done with a standard flare tool that you can buy cheaply. And with practice my flares were better than mediocre.
Last edited by Dragframe; Mar 14, 2020 at 08:50 AM.
I've had many different tools in search of a good flare. Probably got $1000 of flaring tools sitting in my garage right now. I have learned the tool doesn't matter much. What really matters is the cut on the tubing and the brand of tube nut.
I get the best results when cutting tube with a band saw. Super clean cut without deformation. And I've tried many brands of tube nuts from cheap to super expensive. Edelmann brass nuts gives me the best leak-free joints on brake lines.
Stainless hard lines are a bitch. The material is so strong that it doesn't form a seal without really high clamping loads. You need tube nuts that can handle the tightening torques. I stay away from stainless lines unless it's a factory bolt-on deal. If I'm making something at home it's either going to be steel or ni-cop.
I have that flaring tool and bought it from Eastwood, when the first started selling it, at their promo price of $150, I wished I would have waited and shopped around, there were several places where you could buy it for $99, for the identical one. This is a great tool to do lines in the vise, it's useless as a portable tool. To the guy having issues with the mastercool flaring set, it has to be you, not the tool, I've had mine for at least 10 or more years and have done over a thousand flare with it and never had a bad one.
I've had many different tools in search of a good flare. Probably got $1000 of flaring tools sitting in my garage right now. I have learned the tool doesn't matter much. What really matters is the cut on the tubing and the brand of tube nut.
I get the best results when cutting tube with a band saw. Super clean cut without deformation. And I've tried many brands of tube nuts from cheap to super expensive. Edelmann brass nuts gives me the best leak-free joints on brake lines.
Stainless hard lines are a bitch. The material is so strong that it doesn't form a seal without really high clamping loads. You need tube nuts that can handle the tightening torques. I stay away from stainless lines unless it's a factory bolt-on deal. If I'm making something at home it's either going to be steel or ni-cop.
The tool absolutely matters...there are dozens of crap tools out there. But only a handful of good ones.
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Need a brake line flaring tool 
My bud just 
