anyone seen the Matco LS1 balancer holder.
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i saw one on my matco dealers flyer. it snaps on to a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and goes between one of the holes on the balancer. it claimes that you can hold the balancer still so you can take off the bolt without it moveing. looks alot easyer then locking the flywheel or on M6s, putting it in gear and locking the tires. it cost like $50. i am thinking about getting one ordered.
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Originally Posted by taqwache
i saw one on my matco dealers flyer. it snaps on to a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and goes between one of the holes on the balancer. it claimes that you can hold the balancer still so you can take off the bolt without it moveing. looks alot easyer then locking the flywheel or on M6s, putting it in gear and locking the tires. it cost like $50. i am thinking about getting one ordered.
Al
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
screw that I'd rather save that money and use a tool I already have that has more than one function an impact.
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
I've yet to meet a crank bolt that the Ti can't remove.
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
does the correct torque really matter on crank bolts? no not really. Its not like on lug nuts were you have to make sure that they are evenly tightened to prevent warped rotors. Personally I would just tighten it down good with an impact and go on about my day.
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
does the correct torque really matter on crank bolts? no not really. Its not like on lug nuts were you have to make sure that they are evenly tightened to prevent warped rotors. Personally I would just tighten it down good with an impact and go on about my day.
GM engineers don't make up torque sequences to make everyone's lives more difficult.
To each his own.
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300 foot pounds should be enough to keep it from falling off. When you do the 140 degrees after 37 foot pounds your stretching the bolt to help create a clamping force to hold the pulley onto the crank. Put the Ti on setting 3 and it should be around 300 foot pounds of torque which is plenty of clamping load to hold it on. Of course with a new pulley like with new rims the torque needs to be checked after a few hundred miles.
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yeah but torque specs are just a matter of a mathmatical calculation, guys on the assembly line torque stuff down with cordless impacts but the repair manual shows torque specs for every interior fastener.
The balancer bolt will get to a point where it stops turning with the impact, other words the torque spec but isn't the balancer bolt on LS1s like 150 then turn x amount of degrees?
The balancer bolt will get to a point where it stops turning with the impact, other words the torque spec but isn't the balancer bolt on LS1s like 150 then turn x amount of degrees?
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Originally Posted by Pete2k_Z28
But how are you going to torque the old bolt to 220ft/lbs, then install a new bolt, torque it to 37ft/lbs and turn it another 140 degrees with an impact?
Just a thought.
Brad
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Originally Posted by fullfloatingHD
yeah but torque specs are just a matter of a mathmatical calculation, guys on the assembly line torque stuff down with cordless impacts but the repair manual shows torque specs for every interior fastener.
The balancer bolt will get to a point where it stops turning with the impact, other words the torque spec but isn't the balancer bolt on LS1s like 150 then turn x amount of degrees?
The balancer bolt will get to a point where it stops turning with the impact, other words the torque spec but isn't the balancer bolt on LS1s like 150 then turn x amount of degrees?
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Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
Not that I would do this but it does seem possible. Torque it to 37lbs. Mark the head of the bolt with a marker (same thing I do) then instead of the breaker bar and a pipe bust out the impact and watch the sockett as it turns. Pull the tool away periodically and check the angle of the mark on the bolt. You could also mark one side of the sockett.
Just a thought.
Brad
Just a thought.
Brad