taqwache

i saw one on my matco dealers flyer. it snaps on to a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and goes between one of the holes on the balancer. it claimes that you can hold the balancer still so you can take off the bolt without it moveing. looks alot easyer then locking the flywheel or on M6s, putting it in gear and locking the tires. it cost like $50. i am thinking about getting one ordered.

DARK AGE 53

Any link to that tool?

Al

taqwache

no dont think there is. i just saw it on one of there flyiers they hand out once a week.

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

That would be nice to have for an auto car. Its a waste of money for m6 cars tho. Its to easy to put it in gear.

Brad

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

screw that I'd rather save that money and use a tool I already have that has more than one function an impact.

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

That works great on the 99 model, but not on an 01 or 02, not sure about a 00 yet. The newer ones are more difficult to remove.

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

I've yet to meet a crank bolt that the Ti can't remove.

Pete2k_Z28

But how are you going to torque the old bolt to 220ft/lbs, then install a new bolt, torque it to 37ft/lbs and turn it another 140 degrees with an impact?

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

does the correct torque really matter on crank bolts? no not really. Its not like on lug nuts were you have to make sure that they are evenly tightened to prevent warped rotors. Personally I would just tighten it down good with an impact and go on about my day.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

It probably matters to the people that have had the bolt back out and the pulley fall off.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Yes, it matters very much.

GM engineers don't make up torque sequences to make everyone's lives more difficult.

To each his own.

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

300 foot pounds should be enough to keep it from falling off. When you do the 140 degrees after 37 foot pounds your stretching the bolt to help create a clamping force to hold the pulley onto the crank. Put the Ti on setting 3 and it should be around 300 foot pounds of torque which is plenty of clamping load to hold it on. Of course with a new pulley like with new rims the torque needs to be checked after a few hundred miles.

Tom@SpeedInc

iTrader: (5)

yeah but torque specs are just a matter of a mathmatical calculation, guys on the assembly line torque stuff down with cordless impacts but the repair manual shows torque specs for every interior fastener.

The balancer bolt will get to a point where it stops turning with the impact, other words the torque spec but isn't the balancer bolt on LS1s like 150 then turn x amount of degrees?

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Not that I would do this but it does seem possible. Torque it to 37lbs. Mark the head of the bolt with a marker (same thing I do) then instead of the breaker bar and a pipe bust out the impact and watch the sockett as it turns. Pull the tool away periodically and check the angle of the mark on the bolt. You could also mark one side of the sockett.

Just a thought.

Brad

Pete2k_Z28

Actually, most of the tools they use on the assembly line are very expensive, torque calibrated air or electric tools. I worked for 9 years in manufacturing and was responsable for setting up several small assembly lines with such types of tools.

Pete2k_Z28

That's what a lot of guys do. Smack the old bolt in with an impact,take it out, torque the new one to 37, and turn the 140 with an impact. It seems to work, but it's not "correct".