TIG experts, inside please.
Originally Posted by smoknta
Is it bad to have constant High freq when DC welding?
Not using filler on something non structural, such a turbo parts that have a turbo mount, Headers, ect you can fuse. Its a common practice among most header builders if their gaps are good. I fuse headers when I can, using the pulser.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
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From: Evansville, IN
Originally Posted by jdustu
yeah, like what powertrip75 said, you want high frequency start only for the dc....the continuous high frequency is used on a/c for when the current passes back and forth from dc positive(reverse) to dc negative(straight)
I think part of the problem is gas coverage. I am using a collet body instead of a gas lens. Not sure if that is the problem or not. It is acting like I'm not even using gas at all. Arc is not stable and all over the place. Tungsten is just being eaten up.
i am geting better, i think. the weld on the left is the most recent.
i turned down the heat to 35amps, didn't use any filler, and didn't zig around at all. just melted it together and went prety much right down the crack.
is there anything majorly wrong with this method because i am prety happy with the way it looks and it went fast too.
i turned down the heat to 35amps, didn't use any filler, and didn't zig around at all. just melted it together and went prety much right down the crack.
is there anything majorly wrong with this method because i am prety happy with the way it looks and it went fast too.
Don't get into the habit of not using filler rod. You really don't get s strong joint, because you still only have the amount of metal you started with. Adding filler rod acts as a joint reinforcemant. Trying washing the puddle slightly from side to side to flatten out your welds when using filler.
parish, you can start out practicing not using filler, it will help you devolop a steady hand (a good way to have a steady hand is to rest it on something though) after you get good at straight motions move on to filler, you defintally want to be welding with filler otherwise your welds may be weak.
next on that pin hole you talked about when you let off most all times there will be a little pin hole to form to prevent this come off the heat slowly when you stop and give a bit of a swirl at the end, will fix the problem and you wont have any leaks, one thing i found leak testing refrigerator systems that we weld here in my company most leaks was from the end point of the weld when a welder would come off the weld to fast.
also i usauly crank the heat up (185 on the unit) then just control it using the foot petal
if the weld seems to grow boubles that is perosity (frost) which is very hard to get rid of, you have to grid the metal or blast it off with a tourch like mentioned above. that is casued by insufficant sheilding gas, turn your gas up, or dont have your tungsten sticking out so far from the cup.
aluminum is alot harder to lean like i said in my post above every time you stop clean it with a brush. also you dont need to move that fast, though it helps, just get the touch right with the correct amount of heat and you can keep it there for a while.
also on my tig precision 185 i have it set for mostly penatration for AC
next on that pin hole you talked about when you let off most all times there will be a little pin hole to form to prevent this come off the heat slowly when you stop and give a bit of a swirl at the end, will fix the problem and you wont have any leaks, one thing i found leak testing refrigerator systems that we weld here in my company most leaks was from the end point of the weld when a welder would come off the weld to fast.
also i usauly crank the heat up (185 on the unit) then just control it using the foot petal
if the weld seems to grow boubles that is perosity (frost) which is very hard to get rid of, you have to grid the metal or blast it off with a tourch like mentioned above. that is casued by insufficant sheilding gas, turn your gas up, or dont have your tungsten sticking out so far from the cup.
aluminum is alot harder to lean like i said in my post above every time you stop clean it with a brush. also you dont need to move that fast, though it helps, just get the touch right with the correct amount of heat and you can keep it there for a while.
also on my tig precision 185 i have it set for mostly penatration for AC
Originally Posted by parish8
i am geting better, i think. the weld on the left is the most recent.
i turned down the heat to 35amps, didn't use any filler, and didn't zig around at all. just melted it together and went prety much right down the crack.
is there anything majorly wrong with this method because i am prety happy with the way it looks and it went fast too.
i turned down the heat to 35amps, didn't use any filler, and didn't zig around at all. just melted it together and went prety much right down the crack.
is there anything majorly wrong with this method because i am prety happy with the way it looks and it went fast too.
Originally Posted by Louis
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Originally Posted by smoknta
I know normally you only use continous High freq on a/c, but the welder I'm working with right now will fire high freq in continuous mode. It will not fire off in start only mode. I was just curious if it actually is hurting to quality or stability of the arc and finished weld. I am have issure with arc stabilty and tungsten erosion and was curios if this might be part of the problem.
I think part of the problem is gas coverage. I am using a collet body instead of a gas lens. Not sure if that is the problem or not. It is acting like I'm not even using gas at all. Arc is not stable and all over the place. Tungsten is just being eaten up.
I think part of the problem is gas coverage. I am using a collet body instead of a gas lens. Not sure if that is the problem or not. It is acting like I'm not even using gas at all. Arc is not stable and all over the place. Tungsten is just being eaten up.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Evansville, IN
I'll have to try scratch starting and see if that helps. I've tried both Negative and straight polarity and both do about the same. From most of what I have read negative is better. I really think I have gas issues. It acts like I'm not getting any gas coverage. Try Tig welding with out gas and see what it does. Very unstable arc and very bad tungsten errosion.
Originally Posted by smoknta
I'll have to try scratch starting and see if that helps. I've tried both Negative and straight polarity and both do about the same. From most of what I have read negative is better. I really think I have gas issues. It acts like I'm not getting any gas coverage. Try Tig welding with out gas and see what it does. Very unstable arc and very bad tungsten errosion.
Originally Posted by smoknta
So using continuous HF can be causing issues? Yes I can feel gas come out of the cup...I'm using straight Argon, but the flow meter is jumping around a little.
you should pry start at the valve and make sure it doesn't need replaced;if the meter is acting funny,that's where i would start......then make sure the gun is in good shape and all the o-rings are good....but if, the meter is jumping around and everything else seems good, that's the logical place to start
Originally Posted by parish8
how about a welding table. do you guys build some kind of heavy metal table to weld on? do you weld standing up or do you sit on a stool? i would like to get set up to weld headers and downpipes and be somewhat comfortable while doing it.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 191
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From: Phoenix, Az
When I first got my Lincoln 185, I couldn't weld aluminum for ****. I suspected the regulator was bad and had the local Lincoln rep come out and try. He said "yep" bad reg. Got a direct replacement and it is fine now. I can actually weld aluminum better than steel.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
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From: Evansville, IN
Well, I found the problem. Like I stated in a previous post, I accidentally hooked up a bottle of 75/25 Argon/CO2. That was the problem. I hooked up a bottle of 100% argon and layed down some nice looking welds. Using the mix caused erratic arc stability and severe tungsten erosion.