jdustu

iTrader: (2)

yeah, like what powertrip75 said, you want high frequency start only for the dc....the continuous high frequency is used on a/c for when the current passes back and forth from dc positive(reverse) to dc negative(straight)

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Not using filler on something non structural, such a turbo parts that have a turbo mount, Headers, ect you can fuse. Its a common practice among most header builders if their gaps are good. I fuse headers when I can, using the pulser.

smoknta

I know normally you only use continous High freq on a/c, but the welder I'm working with right now will fire high freq in continuous mode. It will not fire off in start only mode. I was just curious if it actually is hurting to quality or stability of the arc and finished weld. I am have issure with arc stabilty and tungsten erosion and was curios if this might be part of the problem.

I think part of the problem is gas coverage. I am using a collet body instead of a gas lens. Not sure if that is the problem or not. It is acting like I'm not even using gas at all. Arc is not stable and all over the place. Tungsten is just being eaten up.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i am geting better, i think. the weld on the left is the most recent.

i turned down the heat to 35amps, didn't use any filler, and didn't zig around at all. just melted it together and went prety much right down the crack.

is there anything majorly wrong with this method because i am prety happy with the way it looks and it went fast too.

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

Don't get into the habit of not using filler rod. You really don't get s strong joint, because you still only have the amount of metal you started with. Adding filler rod acts as a joint reinforcemant. Trying washing the puddle slightly from side to side to flatten out your welds when using filler.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

parish, you can start out practicing not using filler, it will help you devolop a steady hand (a good way to have a steady hand is to rest it on something though) after you get good at straight motions move on to filler, you defintally want to be welding with filler otherwise your welds may be weak.

next on that pin hole you talked about when you let off most all times there will be a little pin hole to form to prevent this come off the heat slowly when you stop and give a bit of a swirl at the end, will fix the problem and you wont have any leaks, one thing i found leak testing refrigerator systems that we weld here in my company most leaks was from the end point of the weld when a welder would come off the weld to fast.

also i usauly crank the heat up (185 on the unit) then just control it using the foot petal

if the weld seems to grow boubles that is perosity (frost) which is very hard to get rid of, you have to grid the metal or blast it off with a tourch like mentioned above. that is casued by insufficant sheilding gas, turn your gas up, or dont have your tungsten sticking out so far from the cup.

aluminum is alot harder to lean like i said in my post above every time you stop clean it with a brush. also you dont need to move that fast, though it helps, just get the touch right with the correct amount of heat and you can keep it there for a while.
also on my tig precision 185 i have it set for mostly penatration for AC

FarmerBeau

iTrader: (3)

Yea, it seems like you can go really fast! If i were you and going to just melt it together on your "root pass," then put a cap on it. (another pass over the top of the other one using filler.) I know that if you are welding up headers that they are not exactly hight pressure, multiple pass applications but it can make the welds more attractive.

FarmerBeau

iTrader: (3)

I know!!! What is the deal with the dime? Why not a nickel or penny or even a quarter for that matter? Geologists seem to always use a swiss army knife for rocks....it must be a trademark of ones profession. lol

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

i've never used a gas lens......not saying that you don't have another issue with the gas, but i doubt that's it....can you turn the high frequency off completely? then you could scratch start it.......honestly i don't know off hand why the continuous hf does that, but i know it's only purpose is to "restart" the arc in balanced wave a/c welding(it's not needed if you have a squarewave machine) and i think that it is detrimental to the arc stability in a "one sided" (straight or reverse) arc........you're using dc straight, right? dc reverse requires a big electrode, and if it's not big it blows up....

smoknta

I'll have to try scratch starting and see if that helps. I've tried both Negative and straight polarity and both do about the same. From most of what I have read negative is better. I really think I have gas issues. It acts like I'm not getting any gas coverage. Try Tig welding with out gas and see what it does. Very unstable arc and very bad tungsten errosion.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

dc negative and straight polarity are the same thing.....and that is what you want it on......can you feel gas coming out of the cup? what type of gas are you using? perhaps you need to change the collet....but you definetly don't want continuous hf unless you are doing balanced wave ac welding

smoknta

So using continuous HF can be causing issues? Yes I can feel gas come out of the cup...I'm using straight Argon, but the flow meter is jumping around a little.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

theoretically it really shouldn't hurt it to have it on continuous hf, but hf does erode electrodes faster, although not to the extent you seem to be experiencing.....i looked into it a little bit more and it really shouldn't be hurting your arc at all....when i have issues like that, though, i like to make sure i start at the beginning and have everything set according to "the book" and go from there, but i guess i wouldn't worry about the hf for now....

you should pry start at the valve and make sure it doesn't need replaced;if the meter is acting funny,that's where i would start......then make sure the gun is in good shape and all the o-rings are good....but if, the meter is jumping around and everything else seems good, that's the logical place to start

JRick212

iTrader: (6)

at work I have a large metal bench that I ground and I can just lay anything on it and weld it. For home I was thinking about building a welding cart to work on since I don't really have room for another bench. I'm gonna build something similar to the one over on the projects page of the miller website www.millerwelds.com they also have a message forum over there that is sometimes useful if for nothing more than seeing what other people are doing and getting ideas.

smoknta

Ok...I thought I was using 100% Argon, but I was actually using 75% Argon, 25% CO2. Could this be causing any of the problems I am having with erratic arc and tungsten errosion.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Definitely, swap that bottle out for pure argon. C25 is for your mig welder

smoknta

Yeah...I hooked up the wrong bottle. They were sitting right next to each other and look just alike except for fine print on label.

Dipstick

When I first got my Lincoln 185, I couldn't weld aluminum for ****. I suspected the regulator was bad and had the local Lincoln rep come out and try. He said "yep" bad reg. Got a direct replacement and it is fine now. I can actually weld aluminum better than steel.

smoknta

Well, I found the problem. Like I stated in a previous post, I accidentally hooked up a bottle of 75/25 Argon/CO2. That was the problem. I hooked up a bottle of 100% argon and layed down some nice looking welds. Using the mix caused erratic arc stability and severe tungsten erosion.

smoknta

Here is a couple pics of the Control Arms I just got done tig welding.
They are 4130 Chromoly tubing with Chromoly tube adapters.