TIG experts, inside please.
12-14-2005, 06:47 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by smoknta
Thanks...they weigh in right around 3 lbs a piece.
I am using a miller maxstar...
The front control arms (upper and lower) and the rear lower are going to be built like everybody elses. Gusseted, boxed and constructed out of TIG welded CM plate.
Should be interesting...
Again
Awesome job..
12-15-2005, 12:11 AM
#85
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Originally Posted by smoknta
Here is a couple pics of the Control Arms I just got done tig welding.
They are 4130 Chromoly tubing with Chromoly tube adapters.
They are 4130 Chromoly tubing with Chromoly tube adapters.
12-15-2005, 01:33 AM
#86
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I bought the tube adapters from http://www.aedmotorsport.com/.
I also got my chromemoly tubing from them also. They carry rod ends also, but they are kinda pricey. I got my Rod ends from Jegs. They are QA1. They have different grades depending on how strong you want it and the type of bearing and race.
I've been looking at another company also for rod ends and tube adapters. http://www.midwestcontrol.com They look to have similar rod ends to the QA1 for a cheaper price. They dont give any specs on Static pull strength though.
I also got my chromemoly tubing from them also. They carry rod ends also, but they are kinda pricey. I got my Rod ends from Jegs. They are QA1. They have different grades depending on how strong you want it and the type of bearing and race.
I've been looking at another company also for rod ends and tube adapters. http://www.midwestcontrol.com They look to have similar rod ends to the QA1 for a cheaper price. They dont give any specs on Static pull strength though.
12-15-2005, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by smoknta
I bought the tube adapters from http://www.aedmotorsport.com/.
I also got my chromemoly tubing from them also. They carry rod ends also, but they are kinda pricey. I got my Rod ends from Jegs. They are QA1. They have different grades depending on how strong you want it and the type of bearing and race.
I've been looking at another company also for rod ends and tube adapters. http://www.midwestcontrol.com They look to have similar rod ends to the QA1 for a cheaper price. They dont give any specs on Static pull strength though.
I also got my chromemoly tubing from them also. They carry rod ends also, but they are kinda pricey. I got my Rod ends from Jegs. They are QA1. They have different grades depending on how strong you want it and the type of bearing and race.
I've been looking at another company also for rod ends and tube adapters. http://www.midwestcontrol.com They look to have similar rod ends to the QA1 for a cheaper price. They dont give any specs on Static pull strength though.
Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; 12-16-2005 at 12:11 AM.
12-16-2005, 01:03 AM
#88
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Yeah they are pretty stout.....I emailed Midwest Control and there high end Chromemoly Rod end has a static load strength of 20,000 lbs vs. 28,000 lbs that the QA1 is advertised at. They are quite a bit cheaper than the QA1 though and I think 20,000 lbs should be plenty.
12-16-2005, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by smoknta
Yeah they are pretty stout.....I emailed Midwest Control and there high end Chromemoly Rod end has a static load strength of 20,000 lbs vs. 28,000 lbs that the QA1 is advertised at. They are quite a bit cheaper than the QA1 though and I think 20,000 lbs should be plenty.
I need a bit more safety margin..
http://www.baja.net/videos/sf250-trophys-rm15.wmv
watch the head on shots towards the end.. Keep an eye on the rear live axle and the front control arms...
This is another persons work but you get the idea of how many and how large of pieces I am going to be using.
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/att...1&d=1088793114
QA1 is a local shop.. So if I wear out a high misalignment spherical bearing I can just go to the source..
Your welds are good enough that if they were on a race trucks components they could withstand a beating like in the clip...
12-16-2005, 09:11 PM
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What is the strongest rod end you have seen? 28,000 lbs is the highest I have seen. I think for drag racing the 20,000 would be sufficient.
Here is a painted pic...
Here is a painted pic...
12-16-2005, 09:33 PM
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QA1's is the highest.... They have some non cataloged industial/aerospace shizzle even stronger...
Yes 20,000 should be fine.. I do think the QA1's will probably go longer before wearing out.. If you have teflon lined ends. Never lube them.. It just makes abrasive putty...
Yes 20,000 should be fine.. I do think the QA1's will probably go longer before wearing out.. If you have teflon lined ends. Never lube them.. It just makes abrasive putty...
12-21-2005, 07:01 PM
#92
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Originally Posted by Louis
12-21-2005, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBeau
Stainless acts about the same as mild but you pretty much know if you are welding at correct heat and speed when the color of the weld is a golden color. Although the golden color is the sweetspot, multicolored welds are very good nonetheless. What method are you using? Free hand? The pipe shown in the picture above that a fellow member welded, he used the freehand teqnique. Here is a good link of what a freehand looks like (I think it is a stainless weld)
http://www.cyberroach.com/robots/rot.../mDSCN3471.jpg
Have you heard of walking the cup? It is a well known teqnique the pipe welders use to weld high pressure pipe. Anytime i weld something worthwhile, i will walk the cup. It ties both peices of metal in evenly and is very attractive if you do it right. These are pics of similar things that we weld at my work. http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop18.jpg and http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop19.jpg These are high pressure flanges and are stainless. You walk the cup by meandering the cup along the weld at a constant speed. You can tell you are doing it right if the tip of your tungsten is making a figure8 motion on the metal. It takes tons of practice and sometimes months or years to perfect but once you have got it, its like riding a bike. Ok found another really good one. http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop16.jpg
Notice the gold color and the blue edges. Correct speed and heat. Also notice the figure 8 pattern looking like it was laid their. BTW that is Stainless.
Again keep your tungsten out of the puddle!!! and it wont ball up
http://www.cyberroach.com/robots/rot.../mDSCN3471.jpg
Have you heard of walking the cup? It is a well known teqnique the pipe welders use to weld high pressure pipe. Anytime i weld something worthwhile, i will walk the cup. It ties both peices of metal in evenly and is very attractive if you do it right. These are pics of similar things that we weld at my work. http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop18.jpg and http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop19.jpg These are high pressure flanges and are stainless. You walk the cup by meandering the cup along the weld at a constant speed. You can tell you are doing it right if the tip of your tungsten is making a figure8 motion on the metal. It takes tons of practice and sometimes months or years to perfect but once you have got it, its like riding a bike. Ok found another really good one. http://www.cryenco.com/images/photos/shop16.jpg
Notice the gold color and the blue edges. Correct speed and heat. Also notice the figure 8 pattern looking like it was laid their. BTW that is Stainless.
Again keep your tungsten out of the puddle!!! and it wont ball up
12-22-2005, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CBX
Pardon my ignorance, but I just bought a Miller Maxstar 150 and haven't even tried it yet. I the picture above can you tell me (or just in general) which direction to weld. On the lower weld near the dime, is it right to left?
the weld by the dime looks like it's going right to left, which would be what most right handers try to do if at all possible
