please recommend a welder for me,
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I have zero welding experience and will learn by picking up some metal and perhaps a book. I m a quick hands on learner. My only criterea is that it'll be capable of welding 1/4" steel and that it is 110V AC. I was told gas is the only way to go? Any opinions?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
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110 volt and 1/4" steel is a tough one. If it is a one time project just have a welding shop do it for you. Gas welding is not going to weld 1/4" nearly good enough. You need an arc welder for that. Lots of practice. 110 volt arc..... I dont know.. Look for an inverter welder. Lots cheaper on the low end.
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how do the Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDs seem to hold up? I have been doing a bit of research and it does seen like a large task. The lincoln web page does say their 110V one will do up to 1/4" but not single pass, does that mean i have to go over the bead twice?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
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The 3200 is a good little welder -- I have its sibling, the Weld Pak 100 .. It definitely WILL NOT do 1/4" or even close to it. It struggles with 1/8" using gas. But for doing typical garage type stuff, it works just fine.
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well i need to weld up myf rame on the stang (there is a rust hole i need to cut out and weld in a plate). I need to fab up a trans cross member, mod headers for the ls1 swap and also would like to reinforce the torque boxes. Not to mention Sub frame connectors later. Will this suffice?
Dave
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
well i need to weld up myf rame on the stang (there is a rust hole i need to cut out and weld in a plate). I need to fab up a trans cross member, mod headers for the ls1 swap and also would like to reinforce the torque boxes. Not to mention Sub frame connectors later. Will this suffice?
Dave
Dave
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dryer is gas, I have 220V to the HVAC but i dont want to have to run 220 to my detached garage which is 20' away. Id have to dig a trench etc, and the ground is frozen. Any way to temp run 220V to garage?
Dave
Dave
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
well i need to weld up myf rame on the stang (there is a rust hole i need to cut out and weld in a plate). I need to fab up a trans cross member, mod headers for the ls1 swap and also would like to reinforce the torque boxes. Not to mention Sub frame connectors later. Will this suffice?
Dave
Dave
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The 3200 could tackle those jobs, with good technique and attention to your welds. I definitely would make sure your welds are solid before going to town on the frame though. I tig welded in all my major structural pieces to make darned sure I have good penetration and weld quality. Don't need anything breaking loose on me
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the welding i would do on the frame isn't really a load bearing part of the frame. What exactly is double pass brains? Do i go over the same bead twice? Also, where can i obtain the argon required?
Dave
Dave
Last edited by TT_Vert; 12-25-2005 at 10:46 PM.
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
the welding i would do on the frame isn't really a load bearing part of the frame. What exactly is double pass brains? Do i go over the same bead twice? Also, where can i obtain the argon required?
Dave
Dave
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how long are those 220V extension cords? I dont exactly have an outlet but I can make one downstairs and run a cord to the garage which would be a good 40'.
Dave
Dave
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I think im going to go w/ the 5000HD, its 220V but i can find a way to get it where I need. Do you think this is large enough to grow with me for a while? its adjustable from 30-175A
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=7107
Thanks
Dave
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=7107
Thanks
Dave
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ok now im thorougly confused. I was looking at the specs of the 3200 and the 5000 and they seem to be able to weld the exact same thicknesses and the only difference is the 5000 can accept .045" wire. I was looking at the welding capabilities .pdf of both welders to find this info. The duty cycles do vary though:
5000 @208VDC 130A/20V/25%
@230VDC 130A/20v/30%
3200: 90A/19V/20%
Help
Also will household current be 230VDC or 208VDC?
Thanks
dave
5000 @208VDC 130A/20V/25%
@230VDC 130A/20v/30%
3200: 90A/19V/20%
Help
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Thanks
dave
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also, seems the 5000 doesnt come w/ the gas regulator so you need to buy a mig conversion kit (PN K610-2) which is another $120. So it looks like 529 for the 5000 vs 459 for the 3200, plus 120 more for the conversion plus I gotta get 220V to my garage. So im looking at $190 plus fees to get 220V into garage. is there enough of a difference to warrant going w/ the 220V at this point? I dont plan on welding any maybe structures, just floors, subframe connectors etc.
Thanks
ave
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ave
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you can run an extension cord, that's not a problem. I run a 25 foot 8ga extension from my dryer socket for my tig welder and it works just fine. if you need help with making the extension cord, let me know - we can buy the stuff through work (do it all the time). My 25 foot with connectors ran me about 45 bucks.
multi-pass welding is just what it sounds like -- you make a "root" pass to get penetration on the bottom, and then you fill on top of the root weld. You need to grind the weld joint into a V shape before welding obviously, and start at the bottom and work up. Its the only way to join thick metal with a mig welder, and its still IMHO not as strong as a single pass with a "big" enough welder.
175A is enough for anything you'll want to do. Get a 220V unit, you'll not regret it, they have a LOT more ***** when welding thick material or when using thicker wire. My Weld Pak 100 doesn't do quite as well with anything over .030" wire. I'll eventually replace that welder with a 220V unit and open my options. Until then, I just run .025" or .030" wire.
Household current is usually between 220VAC and 240VAC, depending on your local power company. I just got up and measured mine for grins, and its 244.8VAC with no load
Welding companies quote 230VAC it as for household current. Also, make sure you buy a welder wired for single phase power -- three phase is industrial power hookup, and uses 4 wires instead of 3.
multi-pass welding is just what it sounds like -- you make a "root" pass to get penetration on the bottom, and then you fill on top of the root weld. You need to grind the weld joint into a V shape before welding obviously, and start at the bottom and work up. Its the only way to join thick metal with a mig welder, and its still IMHO not as strong as a single pass with a "big" enough welder.
175A is enough for anything you'll want to do. Get a 220V unit, you'll not regret it, they have a LOT more ***** when welding thick material or when using thicker wire. My Weld Pak 100 doesn't do quite as well with anything over .030" wire. I'll eventually replace that welder with a 220V unit and open my options. Until then, I just run .025" or .030" wire.
Household current is usually between 220VAC and 240VAC, depending on your local power company. I just got up and measured mine for grins, and its 244.8VAC with no load
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it is single phase. I would need to add an outlet downstairs somewhre then run the extension cord into the garage. it just sounds like the cost will kill me. Im wondering if I cant just learn on this 110V one and resell it when I get a garage w/ 220. I plan to weld just a floor pan, some headers and misc exhaust for now.
Dave
Dave
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i took a look at the millermatic 135 today, i really like that MVI, but cant afford 1K for a welder right yet. I think im gonna have to stick w/ 110V for the time being.
Dave
Dave