Fixing Dent in Quarter..
#1
Fixing Dent in Quarter..
Well I just spend my $1,000 I had aside for fixing paint/body dmg on a john goebel transmission anyways theres no real dmg to this car beside some chips in hte paint (woohoo) and a big dent in the quarter followed by some unnoticable hail anyways heres a pic how should I go about fixing the dent in my quarter?
Last edited by Gun5; 06-22-2006 at 11:12 PM.
#3
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Well, if you're going to get a dent, the one you got is the best type to get. It's not on a hard body line crease from what I can tell (like where the rear bumper cover meets the quarter), and it's easily accessible from the inside (remove spare and antenna).
I wouldn't drill any holes for that one (like we discussed in that other thread). I'd try to push it out as much as possible by hand, strip the paint off of the metal, and then start doing hammer/dolly to try to bring the surface back up (do a lot of reading on this; there are some interesting techniques - and work very slow). Hotrodders.com has a body forum with lots of discussion on metal work.
The metal will have been stretched, so as you get the dent closer to the surface, you'll need to employ metal shrinking techniques. This involves heating and cooling the metal. Some people use a torch for this. Others use a Shrinking Disc (click for link) to heat the metal... and then a wet towel to cool the metal. The shrinking disc requires a full size angle grinder... but it's probably the approach I'd take, as it heats the high spots only, as opposed to the torch, which heats the metal all around as well.
Shrinking will also remove 'oil canning' - the dent popping in/out.
Once you've got the metal darn near original shape, a coat of epoxy primer, a thin layer of filler, a little sanding / shaping, then a layer of 2K high build primer, block sanding to perfectly smooth, and then topcoat paint.
I wouldn't drill any holes for that one (like we discussed in that other thread). I'd try to push it out as much as possible by hand, strip the paint off of the metal, and then start doing hammer/dolly to try to bring the surface back up (do a lot of reading on this; there are some interesting techniques - and work very slow). Hotrodders.com has a body forum with lots of discussion on metal work.
The metal will have been stretched, so as you get the dent closer to the surface, you'll need to employ metal shrinking techniques. This involves heating and cooling the metal. Some people use a torch for this. Others use a Shrinking Disc (click for link) to heat the metal... and then a wet towel to cool the metal. The shrinking disc requires a full size angle grinder... but it's probably the approach I'd take, as it heats the high spots only, as opposed to the torch, which heats the metal all around as well.
Shrinking will also remove 'oil canning' - the dent popping in/out.
Once you've got the metal darn near original shape, a coat of epoxy primer, a thin layer of filler, a little sanding / shaping, then a layer of 2K high build primer, block sanding to perfectly smooth, and then topcoat paint.
#4
ima try what u suggested in a few weeks here with hitting it back, and using the dolly and such... on the hail damage i was going to get a heater and some dry ice heat the metal and ice it make the dings pop out.. for the painting of the quarter maybe i can stop by and see u if u got some time buddy
#5
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Take it to a reputable paintless dent removal company. The guys in St. Louis do an excellent job. You'll probably spend $250 or better on that dent but they'll probably cut you a deal on the hail as well.
#7
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hi. dose anyone on here have any sugestions on how to replace a rear driverside 1/4 pannel on a 94 camaro? i got the fender. just need to know what some ideas are. also what do i need on body filler? i know i need fiberglass filler and regular bondo, but what else do i need as far as sand paper and steps i should take to do the repair.
thanks
chuck
thanks
chuck