Wolfe Mini Tub kit?...
12-24-2005, 06:38 PM
#1
Wolfe Mini Tub kit?... This is my first attempt at doing a mini tub. If I can do it anyone can do it so don't be scared to start cutting on your car. The methods I used worked for me. I'm sure there may be easier ways to tackle this project but hey, this is what I did and why I did it. 
When is a mini tub necessary?
1. To be able to run a very large tire, move the wheel and tire in and lower the car.
What else is required besides the mini tub?
1. Narrow the rear end.
2. Offset the LCA.
3. Open up the fender well if you want to run a 29.5" or 30" tire.
4. Install LCA relocation brackets. (if you lower the car)
5. Purchace new wheels with a 5" or 5.5" BS depending on the tire you wish to run.
6. 2.5" X 10" springs.
7. adjustable spring perches.
Tools required, these are the tools I used:
1. Goggles to protect the eyes.
2. Saw zaw with metal cutting blades.
3. Electric grinding wheel with grinding and cutting discs.
4. Die grinder with cutting blades.
5. 2' level.
6. Adjustable carpenters square.
7. Welder ( I used a mig )
8. Paint markers.
9. chisel's
10.hammer
11.tape measure
12.hand shears
13.hand tongs
14.Car jack or car lift.
15.drill
16.various drill bits inhcluding 1/8" for rivots
17.caulking gun
18.sanding block
19.Jack stands or car lift
20.resperater while painting and seam sealing
21.Tools for removing rear end and accessories.
What does the Wolfe mini tub kit consist of?
1. Left and right side wheel wells. (requires welding or riviting) I welded.
2. Left and right side frame cups. (requires welding)
Materials Reqiuired:
1. Wolfe mini tub kit (part # FWOL800) $190.00
2. welding materials ($50.00) but I needed wire, tips and tip dip.
3. stainless steel rivits
4. emery cloth ( rough to fine )
5. Scotch pads for metal (purple ones)
6. PPG Acryli Clean (part # DX330 ) $31.00 gallon
7. self etching primer ( part # 39673 ) $12.01 per spray can
8. paint of your choice ( I used trim paint part # 39063 ) $9.98 per spray can
9. Seam sealer. I used 1.5 tubes.
10.masking tape
11.cardboard, bed sheets etc. to protect car from overspray
Before you tackle this job I will warn you that this IS a hard core modification and WILL take some time to complete. It is not actually difficult, but it is time consuming. I did all the work it took to complete this project myself except for the welding. The welding required 4 hands lol. Following is the time line it took me to complete this project:
1. Remove rearend 2 man hours.
2. Cut out seat brackets. 4 man hours.
3. Cut out old wheel wells and fit new....18 man hours.
4. Weld in frame cups and wheel wells..8 man hours. 4 hours each
5. Prep metal for primer and paint. 4 man hours.
6. Protect exterior and interior from paint overspray. 2 man hours.
7. 2 coats of primer..1 man hour each coat. (wear your respirator)
8. Install seam sealer..2 man hours. (wear your respirator)
9. 2 coats of paint..1 man hour each coat. (wear your respirator)
10.Touch up paint job. 1 man hour. (wear your respirator)
Total: 45 man hours into this project and I have a car lift. I still need to reinstall the rear end, shock's, PHB, LCA's, springs, center section, axles, TA, brakes, etc. You get the idea..
OK lets get started. Do you have everything you need?
I previously hired a body shop to open up and flare the fenders 1.5" all the way around 3 years ago so this was already completed. Cost $1,400.00. I also previously removed my bump stops and bump stop brackets (timeline 6 man hours but I did major grinding at this time). I was already running a 30" X 10" tire with 10" Weld Draglites with a 7.5" BS. I wanted to move the tire in at least 1/2" but there was definately NO ROOM LEFT to do so. I needed a mini tub.
The first thing I did was remove the rear end, shocks, springs, LCA's, PHB, TA. I then dropped off the rear end for shortening. The next move was to start measuring and marking up. Here is how I did it.
I examined the work area thoroughly. I noticed the rear seat mounting brackets are in the way and they need to be removed. These things are spot welded on and GM did a very good job to say the least. To remove them I used a die grinder with a cutting wheel, saw zaw, hammer and chisel. This was a very time consuming part of the project.
I then measured the width of the new mini tub wheel wells and they were 9" wide. I measured in 9" from the area where the outer wheel well meets the inner wheel well using my my 2' level and made a mark with the paint marker. Here is a pic. Sorry I don't have a pre tub pic but you will get the idea I'm sure.
RIGHT SIDE:
LEFT SIDE:
I did this in several areas and then I used my 2' level as a straight edge and made a cutting line by connecting the dots. This new line on the passinger side should also line up with the 90 degree angle change of the spare tire compartment. The drivers side really has no referance point in this area.
RIGHT SIDE:
LEFT SIDE:
On the other side of the Wheel Well "where the inside WW meets the outside WW" I drilled 1/8" holes from the top of the trunk compartment and I connected the dots with the marking paint on the underside of the WW. This would be the area where the tape measure is -0- inches in the pictures above.
I started cutting the area "where the inside WW meets the outside of the WW. I made a starter cut with a cutting wheel about 2" long. I inserted the saw zaw blade in this starter cut and let her rip. I tried to use the saw zaw where I could because it produces less sparks. OK, I cut out a big hunk of the WW but I stayed way short of the inner marks (where the tape measure is 9 inches in the pictures above) or what we will refer to as the 9" cut line. I just wanted to make an opening so I could verify and actually see what I was doing from under the car. Don't make the same mistake I did by cutting too much out on the right bottom side. The following pic will illistrate this.
Right Side:
Make this horizontal cut 4 or 5 inches from the bottom.
Go to next page.
When is a mini tub necessary?
1. To be able to run a very large tire, move the wheel and tire in and lower the car.
What else is required besides the mini tub?
1. Narrow the rear end.
2. Offset the LCA.
3. Open up the fender well if you want to run a 29.5" or 30" tire.
4. Install LCA relocation brackets. (if you lower the car)
5. Purchace new wheels with a 5" or 5.5" BS depending on the tire you wish to run.
6. 2.5" X 10" springs.
7. adjustable spring perches.
Tools required, these are the tools I used:
1. Goggles to protect the eyes.
2. Saw zaw with metal cutting blades.
3. Electric grinding wheel with grinding and cutting discs.
4. Die grinder with cutting blades.
5. 2' level.
6. Adjustable carpenters square.
7. Welder ( I used a mig )
8. Paint markers.
9. chisel's
10.hammer
11.tape measure
12.hand shears
13.hand tongs
14.Car jack or car lift.
15.drill
16.various drill bits inhcluding 1/8" for rivots
17.caulking gun
18.sanding block
19.Jack stands or car lift
20.resperater while painting and seam sealing
21.Tools for removing rear end and accessories.
What does the Wolfe mini tub kit consist of?
1. Left and right side wheel wells. (requires welding or riviting) I welded.
2. Left and right side frame cups. (requires welding)
Materials Reqiuired:
1. Wolfe mini tub kit (part # FWOL800) $190.00
2. welding materials ($50.00) but I needed wire, tips and tip dip.
3. stainless steel rivits
4. emery cloth ( rough to fine )
5. Scotch pads for metal (purple ones)
6. PPG Acryli Clean (part # DX330 ) $31.00 gallon
7. self etching primer ( part # 39673 ) $12.01 per spray can
8. paint of your choice ( I used trim paint part # 39063 ) $9.98 per spray can
9. Seam sealer. I used 1.5 tubes.
10.masking tape
11.cardboard, bed sheets etc. to protect car from overspray
Before you tackle this job I will warn you that this IS a hard core modification and WILL take some time to complete. It is not actually difficult, but it is time consuming. I did all the work it took to complete this project myself except for the welding. The welding required 4 hands lol. Following is the time line it took me to complete this project:
1. Remove rearend 2 man hours.
2. Cut out seat brackets. 4 man hours.
3. Cut out old wheel wells and fit new....18 man hours.
4. Weld in frame cups and wheel wells..8 man hours. 4 hours each
5. Prep metal for primer and paint. 4 man hours.
6. Protect exterior and interior from paint overspray. 2 man hours.
7. 2 coats of primer..1 man hour each coat. (wear your respirator)
8. Install seam sealer..2 man hours. (wear your respirator)
9. 2 coats of paint..1 man hour each coat. (wear your respirator)
10.Touch up paint job. 1 man hour. (wear your respirator)
Total: 45 man hours into this project and I have a car lift. I still need to reinstall the rear end, shock's, PHB, LCA's, springs, center section, axles, TA, brakes, etc. You get the idea..
OK lets get started. Do you have everything you need?
I previously hired a body shop to open up and flare the fenders 1.5" all the way around 3 years ago so this was already completed. Cost $1,400.00. I also previously removed my bump stops and bump stop brackets (timeline 6 man hours but I did major grinding at this time). I was already running a 30" X 10" tire with 10" Weld Draglites with a 7.5" BS. I wanted to move the tire in at least 1/2" but there was definately NO ROOM LEFT to do so. I needed a mini tub.
The first thing I did was remove the rear end, shocks, springs, LCA's, PHB, TA. I then dropped off the rear end for shortening. The next move was to start measuring and marking up. Here is how I did it.
I examined the work area thoroughly. I noticed the rear seat mounting brackets are in the way and they need to be removed. These things are spot welded on and GM did a very good job to say the least. To remove them I used a die grinder with a cutting wheel, saw zaw, hammer and chisel. This was a very time consuming part of the project.
I then measured the width of the new mini tub wheel wells and they were 9" wide. I measured in 9" from the area where the outer wheel well meets the inner wheel well using my my 2' level and made a mark with the paint marker. Here is a pic. Sorry I don't have a pre tub pic but you will get the idea I'm sure.
RIGHT SIDE:
LEFT SIDE:
I did this in several areas and then I used my 2' level as a straight edge and made a cutting line by connecting the dots. This new line on the passinger side should also line up with the 90 degree angle change of the spare tire compartment. The drivers side really has no referance point in this area.
RIGHT SIDE:
LEFT SIDE:
On the other side of the Wheel Well "where the inside WW meets the outside WW" I drilled 1/8" holes from the top of the trunk compartment and I connected the dots with the marking paint on the underside of the WW. This would be the area where the tape measure is -0- inches in the pictures above.
I started cutting the area "where the inside WW meets the outside of the WW. I made a starter cut with a cutting wheel about 2" long. I inserted the saw zaw blade in this starter cut and let her rip. I tried to use the saw zaw where I could because it produces less sparks. OK, I cut out a big hunk of the WW but I stayed way short of the inner marks (where the tape measure is 9 inches in the pictures above) or what we will refer to as the 9" cut line. I just wanted to make an opening so I could verify and actually see what I was doing from under the car. Don't make the same mistake I did by cutting too much out on the right bottom side. The following pic will illistrate this.
Right Side:
Make this horizontal cut 4 or 5 inches from the bottom.
Go to next page.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; 06-23-2006 at 03:20 PM.
01-05-2006, 03:14 PM
#2
Page 2:
You could do this left side several ways I suppose. You could cut the hump all the way out but you would need to do some sheet metal work around the fuel fill tube. I chose to leave the hump in the fill tube area in tact. If you have a fuel cell you could cut the hump all the way out.
Before you start to cut, here are some pics to view:
RIGHT SIDE:
Notice in the above pic the right side of the new wheel well will need to be trimmed.
NEXT PAGE:
You could do this left side several ways I suppose. You could cut the hump all the way out but you would need to do some sheet metal work around the fuel fill tube. I chose to leave the hump in the fill tube area in tact. If you have a fuel cell you could cut the hump all the way out.
Before you start to cut, here are some pics to view:
RIGHT SIDE:
Notice in the above pic the right side of the new wheel well will need to be trimmed.
NEXT PAGE:
01-05-2006, 06:40 PM
#3
RIGHT SIDE CONTINUED:
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LEFT SIDE: Before welding make sure you cover the threads on the spring perches or anything else you don't want welding splatter to damage.
Notice in the above pic how the frame rail is cut into. The frame rail has an S-curve to the outside from the front to rear.
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.
.
.
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LEFT SIDE: Before welding make sure you cover the threads on the spring perches or anything else you don't want welding splatter to damage.
Notice in the above pic how the frame rail is cut into. The frame rail has an S-curve to the outside from the front to rear.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; 06-24-2006 at 07:53 AM.
01-08-2006, 09:09 PM
#5
OK, I made a starter cut on the top lines I previously made and the started cutting thru the top of the frame rail with the electric grinder and a cutting blade. I cut the upper portion of the frame rail and I was careful not to cut through the lower portion of the frame rail at this time. I continued my cut from front to rear. I made a a few perpendicular cuts and removed as much material as I could. I then cut out the ribbed portion of the frame. You know, that thick piece of protruding metal in the bump stop area. This thing:
I drilled some holes all around this area and again connected the dots and cut it out. As you can see in the above picture that this section came out in many pieces.
I then took my adjustable carpenters square and layed it on the top flat portion of the trunk area. I made some marks on the lower portion of the frame rail and connected the dots. This cut made the top portion of the frame rail square with the bottom portion of the frame rail.
I proceeded to make all my cuts as square and even as possible. After I was satisfied with my cuts I inserted the new wheel well to check out the fitment. Put the WW in, make some marks, grind off some material and just squared things up for a nice fit. I did this several times until I was satisfied with the fitment.
OK everything is ready to be welded. I installed the frame cups and squared them up with the adjustable carpenters square.
After the frame cups were welded in I installed the new wheel well. This is where you will need some help. We lined up the outer section where the inner wheel well met the outer wheel well and welded this section first. We welded a 1/2" to 1" bead every 4 inches or so. I then made sure the wheel well was level and proceeded to weld the 9 inch cut line area. The welding was done the same on both sides.
At this time I ground down some welds, sanded and cleaned everything up.
Now it's time for some sheet metal work to close everything in. This is all that was required on the right side:
RIGHT SIDE:
I drilled some holes all around this area and again connected the dots and cut it out. As you can see in the above picture that this section came out in many pieces.
I then took my adjustable carpenters square and layed it on the top flat portion of the trunk area. I made some marks on the lower portion of the frame rail and connected the dots. This cut made the top portion of the frame rail square with the bottom portion of the frame rail.
I proceeded to make all my cuts as square and even as possible. After I was satisfied with my cuts I inserted the new wheel well to check out the fitment. Put the WW in, make some marks, grind off some material and just squared things up for a nice fit. I did this several times until I was satisfied with the fitment.
OK everything is ready to be welded. I installed the frame cups and squared them up with the adjustable carpenters square.
After the frame cups were welded in I installed the new wheel well. This is where you will need some help. We lined up the outer section where the inner wheel well met the outer wheel well and welded this section first. We welded a 1/2" to 1" bead every 4 inches or so. I then made sure the wheel well was level and proceeded to weld the 9 inch cut line area. The welding was done the same on both sides.
At this time I ground down some welds, sanded and cleaned everything up.
Now it's time for some sheet metal work to close everything in. This is all that was required on the right side:
RIGHT SIDE:
01-09-2006, 07:43 AM
#6
The left side was a little more detailed but no big deal: If you are using the fuel tank fill tube with a fuel tank in the stock location you need to leave the hump. If you use a fuel cell and do not use the fuel tank fill tube you can remove the hump.
LEFT SIDE:
As you can see I used stainless steel rivots for all the sheet metal work.
The sheet metal work is now complete.
The mini tub is now ready for final clean up, primer, seam seal and paint.
I'm not going to tell you how to paint your car but this is what I did.
1. I cleaned everything up again with PPG Acryli Clean (part #DX330)
2. I then protected my car from overspray inside and out.
3. I installed 2 coats of SEM self etching primer (part #39673)
4. I then installed FUSOR seam sealer (part #800).
5. I let the seam sealer set up for 8 hours and then installed another coat
self etching primer. I let this application set over night.
6. Now it's ready for paint. I used 2 coats of SEM trim paint (part#39063)
gloss black on the inside or trunk area of the new wheel well and SEM trim
paint (part#39143) black on the outside or underside of the new wheel
well.
The primer and seam seal is complete.
LEFT SIDE:
As you can see I used stainless steel rivots for all the sheet metal work.
The sheet metal work is now complete.
The mini tub is now ready for final clean up, primer, seam seal and paint.
I'm not going to tell you how to paint your car but this is what I did.
1. I cleaned everything up again with PPG Acryli Clean (part #DX330)
2. I then protected my car from overspray inside and out.
3. I installed 2 coats of SEM self etching primer (part #39673)
4. I then installed FUSOR seam sealer (part #800).
5. I let the seam sealer set up for 8 hours and then installed another coat
self etching primer. I let this application set over night.
6. Now it's ready for paint. I used 2 coats of SEM trim paint (part#39063)
gloss black on the inside or trunk area of the new wheel well and SEM trim
paint (part#39143) black on the outside or underside of the new wheel
well.
The primer and seam seal is complete.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; 06-24-2006 at 07:50 AM.
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01-09-2006, 07:46 AM
#8
More finished product pictures:
Now I'm ready to reinstall the rear end, shocks, PHB, LCA's, springs, center section, axles, brakes, torque arm.
I'm in the process of painting most of these parts so it will be a week or 2 before I have pics of the car lowered. I'm also waiting for my new 10" X 15" wheels with 5.125" backspacing. I think I will run my current 30" X 10" tire but I haven't made up my mind yet. I'll take more measurements before I order new tires.
More pics on the way.
Any comments or suggestions on the article to date? Be nice if at all possible.
06-22-2006, 07:49 PM
#10
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Wolfe Mini Tub kit?... I am getting ready to do a Wolfe mini tub kit and was wondering if anybody had some in progress and completed pics of there kit other that the one that is on there web site...
06-23-2006, 07:39 PM
#12
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Wow really good job on the tub kit install! I am going with this kit in my car, but at the same time I'll be doing a 4-link kit and some other stuff.
Nice write up.
Nice write up.
06-28-2006, 02:26 PM
#16
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Awesome right up. Makes me feel more comfortable doing it myself. I'm glad you listed all the materials needed to. I hate starting projects and finding out I need more than what they say.
07-03-2006, 02:14 PM
#19
Subcribing!!!
Only question I have is, are the adj. spring perches and springs a must?
I plan on a shortened rear by 2" total ( 1" per side)
off-set LCA's
adj. panhard
and 18x12 wheels
345/30/18 tires (d/r)
I know I was going to have to minitub but, I am really hoping to keep my hotchkis springs and koni sa.
With this said possiblity leaving stock spring/shock mount?
Only question I have is, are the adj. spring perches and springs a must?
I plan on a shortened rear by 2" total ( 1" per side)
off-set LCA's
adj. panhard
and 18x12 wheels
345/30/18 tires (d/r)
I know I was going to have to minitub but, I am really hoping to keep my hotchkis springs and koni sa.
With this said possiblity leaving stock spring/shock mount?
07-18-2006, 10:55 PM
#20
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You can't imagine how much help your write up has been. I'm in the process of doing a wolfe kit on my car,and your info has been invaluable.I've almost completed the driver side (tackled it first since it's the most difficult).Here's a few pics,and thanks for the info!
I'm in the process of doing a wolfe kit on my car,and your info has been invaluable.I've almost completed the driver side (tackled it first since it's the most difficult).Here's a few pics,and thanks for the info!