^gotcha. I didnt even think you have to clear those 20's

 

ment half inch (typo)

 

I know if you get a leak between the bag and the valve or the bag itself leaks your going down. What I was thinking is the long run of air lines from the rear to the front would be the most likely place it would leak or rub. What I was thinking is placing the valve for the front about 10" from the bag right under the wheel well and make a plastic cover to keep dirt off it.

Now if the bag gets a hole, your screwed. Just call a wrecker. If it's a sticky valve or the line itself cracks, breaks, leaks, etc... it can be patched like this: Get 4 pieces of 6" long hose and attach a shrader valve to the end of them. Then just remove the regular air line from the bag and slip the new short section in using the Push-to-Connect fittings. Then air it up with the compressor. Each bag will be self contained. That will get you home.

This is what I'm having a hard time understanding. For a specific weight, how could the pressure have little to do with the ride quality? Are you saying you won't feel a 10 or 20 psi difference?

Just to point out, I'm not looking for the best ride, I want it firm for handling purposes. I can set the ride height with the bag 1/2 extended or 3/4 extended as ride height will be independant of bag height due to my threaded lower mount. Wouldn't it make sense that the 3/4 height would ride a bit firmer?
I'm doing it because I have to. I can't stand my car sitting so high, but to go lower will have me scraping on too many things. I need to have an adjustable ride height so I can lift it for steep driveways and such. I plan to have a low front spoiler and I don't want it to get tore up either.

At the same time I'm not willing to give up any handling performance to get the adjustable ride height. I want to maintain the razor like turn in and precision I have now. The last thing I want is for the car to turn into a floaty boat like stock F-bodies.
Air Ride makes the Shockwave in different stroke length's, don't they?
Have you looked at the AirOver Shock's (AOS)? They are similar, but cheaper.
You could always swap the top mount for a rod end and mount it higher up. You could easily move a rod ended mount 1.5"-2" higher. That would lower the car 2.5" to 3.4". I've got pics and plans of how to do it.

 

As far as valves go, Zach from Universal Air was recommending these over their 3/8 valves:
https://www.universalairsuspension.c...fc9d9a45ebae94
not so much for thier size, but for their reliability.

 

with 1/2" you'll def. need some reducers on the exhaust dumps. Also there aint gonna be nothing "slow" about rise time. You are gonna barely hit the switch and its gonna shoot up most likely higher than you want to. No biggy though. Most guys inflate up the front more than needed then drop it down to where they want.

Yeah the bag inflated to 3/4 of its height is going to ride a little firmer but like said before I think, shocks determine your ride quality more than anything.

I've never thought about this before but what about if you put limiters on your suspension arms. You know how crotch rockets "tie" there front ends down? This way you could inflate the bag as much as you want and have increased spring rates...but the car wouldnt get any higher. and you could still go as low as you wanted.

 

I was checking out those particular 1/2 valves due to their "10,000,000 Cycle Rated" plus their design seems to keep dirt from sticking in the valve. Their very big and robust looking as well. Definetely too big for the dump, but it's no big deal as it can be slowed down. It's a $400 investment, but they look worth it and I know I won't need to upgrade later on.
Just a little firmer?
I may be fine here considering the shocks I'm using. They are pretty firm and the rebound is adjustable to stiffen them up more.
There is a simple reason people don't do that. You need a certain amount of wheel travel both up and down to maintain grip on the road. If the wheel can't drop down anymore it will loose it's grip on any low spots. That's an accident waiting to happen.

Ideally, to get the range of motion I want I'd need to run the bag at 1/3 it's extended height. That would give me the small amount of extension I need to drop the car, but still be able to lift it much higher. For instance, from my normal low ride height I'd like the car to drop only 2-3 inches, but able to go up 5-6 inches. That would be ideal, but I bet running the bag at 1/3 extension is not going to feel very firm. I'm just going to have to see for myself what works best. I may have to give up the jacked up 4x4 mode and focus on ride height handling and being able to drop the car.

Any comments on how a vehicle rides at 1/3 extension?

Now I need to choose how tall a bag to get. UAS can make the Aero Sport with either a 4" stroke or 5" stroke. The normal 5" one may touch the K-member lip while the 4" one may not. It may be a moot point as I'm going to be adjusting the collar up and down which might mean both bags will require trimming that lip. I don't know. The shock only has just under 4" of stroke anyway so maybe the 4" stroke bag would be the best choice. Any thoughts on this?

 

not my cup of tea but definately some awesome work

 

match the shock to the bag the more travel the beter and u can always modify the car to acomodate to the bag

 

These are inflation valves. This is what I was talking about plugging directly into a bag that bursts a line or gets a stuck valve.


I think I made up my mind to get the regular 9" tall Aero Sport bag. I'll get those and some inflation valves, fab up the mounting brackets and get some new grooves cut in the shock body. Then we'll see how these bad boys fit and feel.

 

if every thing is installed properly nothing will ever blow

use good air line i have Aeroquip hoses and fitting it will be very hard 2 blow that line

the only way a bag is going 2 blow is if something is rubbing on it or if 2 mutch presser is put 2 it

my wifes car has 160 psi in the tank with 1/2" valves and it raises fast
with 200 psi it will be crazy fast you will have 2 use them fill control things
but with 200 psi u will have a lil more air 2 play with

 

=/...

 

It doesn't hurt to carry a couple of those inflation valves just in case. Cheap insurance.

Using flow control valves is fine with me. I'd rather have it too fast and then carefully slow it down than not fast enough. There is no easy way to make it faster. I like having full control, that's why I went with the Coilover conversions and adjustable Koni's. You can fine tune it until it's just right.

I've seen Aeroquip hoses for fuel line, but never for air. How strong are they and what do they cost?

 

its the same hose for fuel and oil or whatever

 

i asked earlier and got no reply... what size/offset are your rims and tires? i really like the deep dish look.

 

sorry its 20x10 with 5" BS and the tire is 295/30/20

 

I don't remember if you ever mentioned this, but how much lower does the front and the rear go down now that you tubbed them?

I think I need 3 extra inches in the back and maybe 2 up front. Do you remember yours?

 

2" extra

 

wouldn't it be TUBBED, not TUBED? lol

 

Once you start a thread you can't change the title. Only a mod can do that.

Slammed, was that 2" front and rear?

I'm also making a list of all the mods needed to do my car's rear suspension.

1. Wheel tubs, obviously.
2. I'll modify the shock mounts.
3. Exhaust is already out of way.
4. I have plans for a new gas tank.

I think the only thing left concerns the driveshaft and torque arm.
Did your driveshaft hit the tunnel or did you cut out the metal for torque arm clearance?

If the driveshaft will clear, I may just modify my TA.

It looks like you stopped cutting right behind the center console. Did the parking brake lines give you any clearance issues? If so, how did you solve that?

 

the front only needed around 1 1/2" before so i did every thing 2"
the rear is done a lil more

you have 2 cut the rear of the floor anyway for the center chunk so a modified TA wont help

i didnt have plans on putting the E brake back on