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tubed the camaro ( pics)

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Old 01-05-2008 | 11:05 AM
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Hey Kenny, take a look at this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...04#post8426904

I made a picture of my car lowered and then raised the wheel well arches so it can be driven at a real low height. It looks really good in my opinion. Tell me what you think.
Old 01-05-2008 | 11:53 AM
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Kenny-that maroon truck sure would look good with a sectioned/tucked bumper. haha.
Old 01-05-2008 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Beyond Static
Kenny-that maroon truck sure would look good with a sectioned/tucked bumper. haha.
ha ha funny guy whats up man
what u up 2
Old 07-28-2008 | 01:30 AM
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Just a burp. Scuse me!
Old 11-24-2008 | 12:03 AM
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still no fully raised pics???
Old 11-24-2008 | 11:41 PM
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There's 2 main threads on his car. The other one has pics as well as vids of it in action. See "a few pics of the camaro" thread.

BTW Kenny, I bought me a stripped 98 trans am to body drop. I'm going 2" lower than you.
I hope a full 4" of ground clearance is going to be enough. I'm still limited to 6" of travel up front.

Last edited by JasonWW; 11-24-2008 at 11:53 PM.
Old 11-27-2008 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
There's 2 main threads on his car. The other one has pics as well as vids of it in action. See "a few pics of the camaro" thread.

BTW Kenny, I bought me a stripped 98 trans am to body drop. I'm going 2" lower than you.
I hope a full 4" of ground clearance is going to be enough. I'm still limited to 6" of travel up front.
it will probably easier so do a full tube chassis car
Old 05-20-2009 | 01:34 AM
  #128  
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Hey Kenny, do you have any pics of your new rear suspension?

I know most of the mods you had to do, but there are a few things I'm wondering about.

Did you make a new 2" lowered panhard rod mount of the drivers side of the rear axle?

Are you using a stock length shock?
If so, they only offer 7.25" of travel. I know you estimated you had about 10" of travel in the back, but I don't see how. Since I have the adjustable Koni SA's and I run them on the soft side, I may modify the mounts so they are angled (or just moved forward) so that I can get a few more inches of travel out of them. Doing this will reduce the leverage they have, but I can firm up the rebound to compensate. I think that will work. What's your opinion?

Did you space down the swaybar mounts so it won't bind?

How did you tuck your exhaust high enough? Any pics of that would really help as well.

Here's my checklist to do:
Raise wheel wells
Move gas tank
Lower panhard mount (drv)
Extend shock mounts
Lower swaybar mounts
Make drop brackets for LCA
Notch out the trans tunnel

Is there anything I overlooked?
Old 05-25-2009 | 10:38 AM
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i remade a new mount wich is lower on the rearend 4 the panhard bar
and i am using stock replacement shocks i just made a new mount 4 them and it is lowered also

and i never put the swaybar on yet
got 2 get 2 that

this is the only pic i have now when i get home i can see if i have more

Old 05-26-2009 | 11:31 AM
  #130  
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wow sick car. You ran full SS line for your airlines? Talk about $$$.
Jason you can get a lot of your parts through suicidedoors, which if you call them they can help you out. Theres a **** ton of work to get where slammed is at, so just be aware that you need to be on your A game to get things done correctly.

by the way, are those rushforth wheels?
Old 05-26-2009 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Camaro...
wow sick car. You ran full SS line for your airlines? Talk about $$$.
Jason you can get a lot of your parts through suicidedoors, which if you call them they can help you out. Theres a **** ton of work to get where slammed is at, so just be aware that you need to be on your A game to get things done correctly.

by the way, are those rushforth wheels?
lets just say i got the hook up on the lines

and the wheels are INTRO
thanks
Old 05-26-2009 | 01:44 PM
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I'm thinking about running 1/2" copper lines from the front to the rear, then about 1 foot of flexible lines near my front bags. Sound good?

BTW, I'm running stainless steel Norgren push fittings. They work with metal or plastic lines. It's good stuff.

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-26-2009 at 01:54 PM.
Old 05-26-2009 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
I'm thinking about running 1/2" copper lines from the front to the rear, then about 1 foot of flexible lines near my front bags. Sound good?

BTW, I'm running stainless steel Norgren push fittings. They work with metal or plastic lines. It's good stuff.
i seen a few people use copper
i think it 2 soft
Old 05-26-2009 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
i seen a few people use copper
i think it 2 soft
Well, I mean it's a better choice over nylon.
I just don't have the hookup on braided line like some people I know.

Aluminum and stainless steel tubing are also an option.
Old 05-26-2009 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Well, I mean it's a better choice over nylon.
I just don't have the hookup on braided line like some people I know.

Aluminum and stainless steel tubing are also an option.
i see a lot of people use stainless
i would go with that
only bad thing about it is its hard 2 bend
but it looks killer when done properly
Old 05-26-2009 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
The mini tubs are nice, but your purpose for doing so is god awful.
Originally Posted by sdiddy
I'm speechless.
Pretty much sums it up for me!

I dont understand the philosophy of motor work coming second to paint, or coming second to anything for that matter, but it is apparent that you are doing whatever you are doing the right way and the execution appears to be spot on.

Why QA1's? I would think something like Koni's would fit this...car better.
Old 05-26-2009 | 09:56 PM
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running copper is bad. Cars have too much vibration/movement. Ive seen many guys with bagged trucks have them and are always breaking fittings and lines. Its just too soft, stick with steel and get a mini bender, and take your time.
Old 05-27-2009 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Camaro...
running copper is bad. Cars have too much vibration/movement. Ive seen many guys with bagged trucks have them and are always breaking fittings and lines. Its just too soft, stick with steel and get a mini bender, and take your time.
Ekstensive Metalworks here in Hou. uses copper lines and Norgren push in fittings exclusively. They swear by them. I imagine copper lines can crack if installed rigidly, but if you use rubber coated straps to hold them and route them smartly, it will be fine.

Another thought would be to use DOT nylon lines and run them inside the car. It would offer much better protection, don't you think?
Old 05-27-2009 | 06:32 PM
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almost every car that leaves our shop is riding on air, and all we use is the airride technologies nylon line. It is always routed as far as possible inside the car for protection. We also use their push fittings and they fit and seal very well.
Old 05-27-2009 | 06:41 PM
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when you said Tube i was thinking woow which type of engine he gonna use how fast it can be on drag !!!!!!!!!!!!
and Then when you postet the pictures i saw a really Nice Low Rider Camaro.
i think Impalla Ss 96 can look the best when u make it Low like ur car


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