90 amp OK for welds of sub-frame/roll bars?
Thread Starter
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
90 amp OK for welds of sub-frame/roll bars? My house in not equipmed with 220V lines, so I am considering a 115 volt 90 amp mig for small welding jobs such as:
1. Subframe welds
2. 8-point roll bar welds
3. Mufflers, exhaust pipes
I assume all this stuff must be mild steel since you can't use a MIG for chrome-molly steel; right?
Right, I'm thinking this dude for $220 USD.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=6271
1. Subframe welds
2. 8-point roll bar welds
3. Mufflers, exhaust pipes
I assume all this stuff must be mild steel since you can't use a MIG for chrome-molly steel; right?
Right, I'm thinking this dude for $220 USD.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=6271
Thread Starter
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
this is the 90 amp version that runs in 110 volts:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94056
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94056
Will the Harbor Freight welder physically weld the cage and subframes in... yes. Will the welds be compromised in strength in comparison to those produced by a 220V machine? Probably.
There's really only one leg of voltage going into your house?
There's really only one leg of voltage going into your house?
You're better off paying someone else to weld it rather than buying that welder...I think the subframe welds would crack pretty quickly, and I'd NEVER trust a rollbar/cage with my lfie knowing it wasn't welded with enough power.
You can run 220Vac on a house that doesn't have a 220 line, you just need to put the hot leg into a 110Vac hot wire and the neutral leg of the 220v into a 110v hot wire of another phase. I can almost gaurantee that you have atleast 2 110v phases going into your house. Infact, I don't think I've ever seen a house pannel with only one phase coming in. If you/an electrician wires it correctly there should be no problem getting a welder that will support your needs.
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Ive got a 11o Volt Hobart. It works pretty good. It has its drawbacks due to usung a low voltage. When cranked it will start off hot but as it runs for a few seconds it gets a little weaker. I didnt click the link but we had a Cheap Century 110 welder at work one time. It was POS. It gave more trouble than it was worth.
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I would not recommend that welder. I bought one similar to that one as a first to practice on. The welds look like bird crap. I would only weld exhaust with it. That is all I have welded with mine. It is not pretty. Spend the extra money for something with gas and 220. If you are on a budget just pay someone to do it for you.
To be honest I was looking at a budget 110V machine. After I researched and took into consideration what I was planning on paying to have welded over the course of a couple years I just went ahead and bought a 220V unit. I picked up a Millermatic and couldn't be happier. It has paid for itself and then some. Not to mention the extra cash I've made from people bringing stuff by. You don't have to get a Miller, you could pick up a Hobart, which to the best of my knowledge is a rebadged Miller.
I bought a Clarke 130 amp 120 volt MIG awhile back. It is set up to use gas. It welds very good for being a cheaper welder. Came with a cart, regulator, and some other useless items. I would have no problem welding a cage with this welder. It welds thin sheet metal well, exhaust, and thicker steel and tubing.
Built my crossmember, welded in LCA relo brackets, and a few other things for my car. And for my and friends' jeeps Ive built crossmembers, front/rear bumpers, rock rails, tire swings, brackets, etc etc...all of which see massive impacts and abuse. No issues as of yet.
I WOULD like a 220V...its just not in the cards right now. I am however in the process of building a gas powered TIG welder. Which should work pretty good.
My suggestion is check out Clarke or Hobart...get something atleast 130 amps...then PRACTICE before trying something like a cage.
J.
Built my crossmember, welded in LCA relo brackets, and a few other things for my car. And for my and friends' jeeps Ive built crossmembers, front/rear bumpers, rock rails, tire swings, brackets, etc etc...all of which see massive impacts and abuse. No issues as of yet.
I WOULD like a 220V...its just not in the cards right now. I am however in the process of building a gas powered TIG welder. Which should work pretty good.
My suggestion is check out Clarke or Hobart...get something atleast 130 amps...then PRACTICE before trying something like a cage.
J.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
run gas. period. then get a mix with helium in it. like 75 argon 22.5 C02 and 2.5 helium, it will heat better and burn in deeper then straight 75/25 mix for steel.
On The Tree
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I bought a clarke 180en 220v new on e-bay last year for just under $500 w/cart. I use it a good bit,and so far no problems. I plan on getting a miller this coming year,but for a budget welder the clarke has been pretty good.
To be honest I was looking at a budget 110V machine. After I researched and took into consideration what I was planning on paying to have welded over the course of a couple years I just went ahead and bought a 220V unit. I picked up a Millermatic and couldn't be happier. It has paid for itself and then some. Not to mention the extra cash I've made from people bringing stuff by. You don't have to get a Miller, you could pick up a Hobart, which to the best of my knowledge is a rebadged Miller.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
bought a lincoln 110V 125 amp wire gun and did my SFC a couple days ago. i have 4 voltage/amperage settings A B C and D. i welded them on B. great welder. welds were very smooth using lincoln innershield .35 wire with no gas. i was impressed. it cost 469 at home depot.
