and I need to use it right now 
Air compressor buying help
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rosenberg,TX
If you get that 5 hp / 80 gal compressor at Tractor Supply, be sure to take REALLY GOOD CARE of it. Change the oil religiously, and run the I-R synthetic oil. My buddy's burned up 2 of 'em. 
(the SS5N5 model). He treats it like a bad dog though. They're not quite built the same as the higher end (T30 series pump head) I-R compressors. I did a lot of close looking at the whole line of I-R compressors before I bought mine (I-R 2340L5).
(the SS5N5 model). He treats it like a bad dog though. They're not quite built the same as the higher end (T30 series pump head) I-R compressors. I did a lot of close looking at the whole line of I-R compressors before I bought mine (I-R 2340L5). On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rosenberg,TX
It all depends on the CFM rating. I have a 6foot long x 30" x30" blasting cabinet and I can blast fenders in. When doing that I may be blasting for a couple of hours straight and mine works great. I can blast for about 1-1/2 minutes before the compressor kicks on and it will fill back up and shutoff while I'm still blasting.Mine is a 5hp/60 gal. single stage cast iron compressor.
Dang, that sucks about your motor.
The I-R compressor I got from Grainger has a Grainger motor on it (a Dayton model). The I-R stickers also list "Grainger" as part of the model number, so I suppose they have their own deal with them (and maybe it's why I got it for almost $200 less than anywhere else ). Either way, so far so good, going on just over 2 years now.
The I-R compressor I got from Grainger has a Grainger motor on it (a Dayton model). The I-R stickers also list "Grainger" as part of the model number, so I suppose they have their own deal with them (and maybe it's why I got it for almost $200 less than anywhere else
). Either way, so far so good, going on just over 2 years now. Dang, that sucks about your motor.
The I-R compressor I got from Grainger has a Grainger motor on it (a Dayton model). The I-R stickers also list "Grainger" as part of the model number, so I suppose they have their own deal with them (and maybe it's why I got it for almost $200 less than anywhere else ). Either way, so far so good, going on just over 2 years now.
The I-R compressor I got from Grainger has a Grainger motor on it (a Dayton model). The I-R stickers also list "Grainger" as part of the model number, so I suppose they have their own deal with them (and maybe it's why I got it for almost $200 less than anywhere else
). Either way, so far so good, going on just over 2 years now. That's a bunch of crap. I bet it kicks on in less than 5 minutes and rarely quits running. I blasted for a couple hours a day for 3 years, I know better. That pump isn't that big. Unless your blasting at 75psi or something. I'm talking wide-open.
Central Pneumatic is about the cheapest stuff you can get from China. I've got a couple of Central air tools, one is OK, another is crap out of the box (shaft wobble). I've got a Central Pneumatic air filter that does its job, but the air regulator that came with it is complete garbage.
Honestly, I think you'll be rolling the dice with that compressor. You may get a good one; you may get junk. That seems to be how HF tools go. I've had decent tools, I've had junk from them. Make sure you can take it back if it blows up (don't mail order it).
I try not to buy anything at HF any more. They sell a LOT of crap tools.
Honestly, I think you'll be rolling the dice with that compressor. You may get a good one; you may get junk. That seems to be how HF tools go. I've had decent tools, I've had junk from them. Make sure you can take it back if it blows up (don't mail order it).
I try not to buy anything at HF any more. They sell a LOT of crap tools.
I ended up going for the SS5L IR from Northern... Nothing but good things to say about it, produces 18CFM @ 90PSI and 21CFM @ 40 PSI.. Couldnt be beat for the $860 i paid including shipping!
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Verdad Gallardo It should have an air filter. I know Tractor Supply Company just sells the filter can and filters if you don't have one. Air going in to a comp needs to be filtered.
Make sure you change the oil fairly frequently on that SS5L5, especially if you run it hard for a while. Keep in maintained and it'll do OK. The pump head lives on the oil, and that particular one is very finicky.
Make sure you change the oil fairly frequently on that SS5L5, especially if you run it hard for a while. Keep in maintained and it'll do OK. The pump head lives on the oil, and that particular one is very finicky.
Camaroholic, what failed on your buddy's pump twice?
You will run in to a lot of issues buying these cheaper air compressors. They look like a good deal but are throw away units IMO. The pumps are made cheaper, the motors are a lower quality (in many ways), the pressure switches are garbage, and half the time they never meet spec.
Last edited by WS6FirebirdTA00; Jun 26, 2008 at 08:22 PM.
The pump heads locked up. Probably from running too hard. The SS5 & SS3 pumps are "serious consumer duty" pumps, but they are not the "industrial duty" pumps from the T30 series. My buddy was running his in his shop, where they use air tools all day long.
Actually, the SS5 is continuous duty eated just like all our other electric pump units. We run these for thousands of hours only stopping to top them off with oil. When you say the head failed, what exactly was it? Valves? MostFail with conventional oil due to carbon buildup. Should have just shot you a pm lol (have no idea how to copy this on my phone to pm lol)
FWIW,
I just looked at a couple cambpell hausfield 26-30? and 60 gallon, they have the exact same motor and cast iron pump as my husky. Found the 30 on sale for $249, not a bad buy at all. Not sure how much the 60 gallon was.
I just looked at a couple cambpell hausfield 26-30? and 60 gallon, they have the exact same motor and cast iron pump as my husky. Found the 30 on sale for $249, not a bad buy at all. Not sure how much the 60 gallon was.
That is a nice setup you have there. The IR SS5 pump is a very good pump as well as the motor. The only real issues seen from those units is when they are only run for short periods of time, building up water in the oil, that is killer for them (and well any pump really). I like the 2340 the best, it is a bit quieter than the SS5 pumps.
I have noticed it seems to make quite a lot of water in the tank but as long as i keep draining that i think i will be ok.
Yea, the only thing you have to worry about with water in the tank is rust. IR is the best to get when it comes to that, our tanks are much thicker than other units. That is abother reason it costs more, but it lasts a LOT longer.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: St Petersburg Florida / Murren Switzerland
Go Sears and check out theirs! I have a Craftsman Professional 60 gal and 150 psi with 7 hp and I have had since I built my house 5 years ago and it gets used alot! I have never had a single problem with it! Got the garage all piped too! I paid less $500! It works off 240 volts which for a better and more efficient compressor. Stay away from the oil free compressors as the cannot take the load like the others. plus if you wait for when they have their Craftsman club sale, you'll make out quite well. I believe that Devilbiss makes it for Sears. i'm not crazy about their air tools, I'm partial to Porter Cable. 
Actually, the SS5 is continuous duty eated just like all our other electric pump units. We run these for thousands of hours only stopping to top them off with oil. When you say the head failed, what exactly was it? Valves? MostFail with conventional oil due to carbon buildup. Should have just shot you a pm lol (have no idea how to copy this on my phone to pm lol)
I saw enough "bad comments" about the SS and TS series of pump heads online that it steered me away from them. If I had to do it over, I would buy my I-R 2340L5 again, it's a great compressor. My ONLY complaint about it (as shipped from I-R) was the cheap and crappy little drain valve on the bottom center of the tank. Good luck reaching that.
I-R should be providing an elbow, a ~6" extension, and a little ball valve, with a length of hose. Grand cost would be about $4 or so, and it makes draining the tank SO easy and convenient.